SS3600 or SS4000 with 10bolt
SS3600 or SS4000 with 10bolt Im getting ready to go with a ss3600 but now im getting talked into a ss4000. I was going to use nittos with the ss3600 since they are more forgiving and would help my 10bolt last but now I dont no if that would would work with ss4000. What are the chances of hooking on nittos with ss4000 or will I need some MT? M/T and 10bolt dont sound like a combo that would last to long.
every 10 bolt is different bro, some last forever and others break when the car is stock. some people are running really quick times with huge stalls and stock rear ends. maintaince and driving behaviors really play a role in how likely your 10 bolt is to break. with that said, i have a yank ss4000/ms4 and nitto dr's with the stock 10 bolt and all is good so far. however, i dont really launch extremely hard and wont until i have the cash for a 12 or 9"...
for what its worth, if you are debating about stall size, i would first recommend that you figure out what your goal is with the car. i decided to get the ss4k because it matched very well with my ms4. the drivability on the street isnt all that bad either, i was actually quite suprised and am glad i didnt get the ss3600
My times are in my sig. That is with a Yank PT4400, and I drive it on the street all of the time. I still have the 10 bolt as well, running a MT slick, stock heads, cam, and the rest of the longblock. If you plan on keeping the car on motor, I would run their PT series converters, but if you spray it, I would go with a SS4000.
I drive the car everyday, I think PT would be out of the question even 4000 might be pushing it. When driving around in the city whats it usually take to get you moving and keeping up?
I drive mine every day too uness it is snowing. What you think is streetable might not be the same as me. I never pay attention to the RPMs it takes to get the car moving, but it isn't that bad. I get 18mpg city and 22 hwy, and then I can bust off a 11.4 pass, and drive home no worries.
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I have a SS3600 with MT DR's and 3.90's in my stock 10 bolt. Has run 11.56 full weight, but I kinda wish I would have gone SS4000 or even the PT4400. I always have that feeling I am leaving something on the table. I dont expect my 10 bolt to last forever, but we will see.
I drive mine every day too uness it is snowing. What you think is streetable might not be the same as me. I never pay attention to the RPMs it takes to get the car moving, but it isn't that bad. I get 18mpg city and 22 hwy, and then I can bust off a 11.4 pass, and drive home no worries.
All converters above 3500 pretty much have the same drivability the difference is under WOT the higher stall will hit the hardest netting the best possible 60" and reign supreme on the track....
Your traction problem on the street is a direct result of running Nittos on the street. They are at best a decent street tire and barely work at the track, run a MT street radial on the car and no one can out launch you on the street.
My best 60" on the Nittos was a 1.78, First pass on the MT radials I went 1.640. The car consistantly cuts 1.627-1.630 60" on the MT radials
Nittos are JUNK! They barely hold stock power. If you want a real tire, go with the MT or Hoosier drag radials.
I sent back my PT4400 to Yank and they changed it to the SS4000 so I can spray it with a 150 shot. I should have times in 2-3 weeks.
I sent back my PT4400 to Yank and they changed it to the SS4000 so I can spray it with a 150 shot. I should have times in 2-3 weeks.
Traction on the street with those stalls is funny if not spectacularly non-existant.
If I whack the gas half-throttle, it'll go into second gear right about the time it starts moving. Then you can just roll into full throttle and put on a good show for the kids.
fun enough to be worth losing a race Traction on the street with those stalls is funny if not spectacularly non-existant.
If I whack the gas half-throttle, it'll go into second gear right about the time it starts moving. Then you can just roll into full throttle and put on a good show for the kids. fun enough to be worth losing a race
If I whack the gas half-throttle, it'll go into second gear right about the time it starts moving. Then you can just roll into full throttle and put on a good show for the kids.
fun enough to be worth losing a race Yeah I did. I know I could have come close, but didn't feel like spending A LOT more money to shed off the rest of the weight needed to run the number. A simple converter swap and the dry shot will get me where I want to be with my E.T. I have a pretty busy schedule this year with Pro E.T. brackets, NMCA, and Pinks, so I will be having a lot of fun doing those instead of chasing the record.