my 60fts SUCK!!!
my 60fts SUCK!!! i know my 60fts can be better than they are at the track (1.7's), but i dont get to go to the track enought to test and tune my suspension religiously. i was hoping some of you more experienced suspension guys could guide me in a direction to get my times down.
its currently a 400rwhp h/c ls1 with a built 4L60E and a yank ss3600. battery relocation, no a/c, no rear seats, stock 3.23's and mt 17" dr's. suspension mods consist of:
k member
sfc's
lca's w/relo brackets
adj ta
qa1 12way on all 4's with 300# spring on front
any and all sugestions will be greatly appreciated
its currently a 400rwhp h/c ls1 with a built 4L60E and a yank ss3600. battery relocation, no a/c, no rear seats, stock 3.23's and mt 17" dr's. suspension mods consist of:
k member
sfc's
lca's w/relo brackets
adj ta
qa1 12way on all 4's with 300# spring on front
any and all sugestions will be greatly appreciated
What mph do you run? It will help in telling the ET potential in the car.
Also list more about your combo, rear spring type, where your shocks are now set, pinion angle, location of LCA in relocation brackets (which hole), angle the LCA is pointed, raised or lowered car, brand of TA and is adjustment just pinion angle or can you adjust the front mounting location to name a few.
First things that come to mind for me would be getting a set of 15" rims, skinnies up front and 15" in the rear to gain better tire selection and then the gear ratio, 3.23 isn't that great, so list the tallest tire you want to run and the max rpm you rev the car too.
To some it up, gears, chassis tuning, better tire are probably the things you'll gain the most from in that order.
Also list more about your combo, rear spring type, where your shocks are now set, pinion angle, location of LCA in relocation brackets (which hole), angle the LCA is pointed, raised or lowered car, brand of TA and is adjustment just pinion angle or can you adjust the front mounting location to name a few.
First things that come to mind for me would be getting a set of 15" rims, skinnies up front and 15" in the rear to gain better tire selection and then the gear ratio, 3.23 isn't that great, so list the tallest tire you want to run and the max rpm you rev the car too.
To some it up, gears, chassis tuning, better tire are probably the things you'll gain the most from in that order.
yes, i know gears and tires but there are so many guys out there cutting 1.5's with 17's and 3.23's. i was just wondering what i could tweek on to get the times down with the mods that i currently have (plus maybe a phb and rear sway bar).
ragenz28, sorry for not being more specific. i'll try and give you some better info
it runs 7.6's at 93mph in the 1/8 (dont have a 1/4 track near). stock rear springs with the retainer cups removed to lower the car a little. i usually set my shocks at 0-1 in the front at the track and 4 on the drivers side and 5 on the passenger side, but this area is where i need the most help. pinion angle is -1 to -1.5*. lca's are in the bottom hole on the relo brackets. the front end is lowered just enough to be level with the rear (see info above). bmr ta with pinion angle adj only (but have debated buying a relo crossmember from yank).
ragenz28, sorry for not being more specific. i'll try and give you some better info
it runs 7.6's at 93mph in the 1/8 (dont have a 1/4 track near). stock rear springs with the retainer cups removed to lower the car a little. i usually set my shocks at 0-1 in the front at the track and 4 on the drivers side and 5 on the passenger side, but this area is where i need the most help. pinion angle is -1 to -1.5*. lca's are in the bottom hole on the relo brackets. the front end is lowered just enough to be level with the rear (see info above). bmr ta with pinion angle adj only (but have debated buying a relo crossmember from yank).
you dont need to change the gearing. thats a waste and you will see very little gain. are you spinning or is it hooking? put some 17" m/t drag radials, short burnout, and 20 psi in the tires and hammer it has hard as you can.
3.23 with a stock height tire is fine.
3.23 with a stock height tire is fine.
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On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
also you should get 373`s and that stall is kinda small as well if you are hooking then you are bogging down
A 150 shot will get you better 60`s
my 60fts need improvement also but I only got 7 passes on the car so far and my best is 1.48 but I think I can get that down to 1.40
A 150 shot will get you better 60`s
my 60fts need improvement also but I only got 7 passes on the car so far and my best is 1.48 but I think I can get that down to 1.40
From what I can guess or estimate you're around 12.0's @115 mph in 1/4 times. You have -1 to -1.5 on rod/rod end lower control arms or poly arms? If it is poly arms I would try a little more pinion angle.
Also I see you run the rear shocks at different settings, so I am guessing you need an anti roll bar and yes it will help.
I'd look to run around mid 1.5's with that current mph.
What rpm do you shift at and what rpm are you at and in which gear when you cross the finish line?
Also I see you run the rear shocks at different settings, so I am guessing you need an anti roll bar and yes it will help.
I'd look to run around mid 1.5's with that current mph.
What rpm do you shift at and what rpm are you at and in which gear when you cross the finish line?
but you can try adding some air pressure,the best way to leave with a car like yours usually is to spin the tires a little to get the rpms up into the engine's power range,just try adding more pressure a little at a time and see if your 60's dont get better
davey, i do have the juice. i have a tune for 100 and 150 shots but want to get my 60fts down on motor first. and hope to be getting a 9" w/3.73's by the summer.
ragenz28, i have no adj lca's w/poly ends so maybe i'll try some more pinion (by more, do you mean closer to 0 to +1 or -2 to -2.5?).
i shift at 6800 rpms and cross the 1/8 at the very top of second. if i put it in 3rd, it'll actually shift into 3rd just a few feet before the line so i hold it in second for best results. i would absolutely be thrilled if i could get it into the 1.5's. thats more of what im expecting
ragenz28, i have no adj lca's w/poly ends so maybe i'll try some more pinion (by more, do you mean closer to 0 to +1 or -2 to -2.5?).
i shift at 6800 rpms and cross the 1/8 at the very top of second. if i put it in 3rd, it'll actually shift into 3rd just a few feet before the line so i hold it in second for best results. i would absolutely be thrilled if i could get it into the 1.5's. thats more of what im expecting
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
You said you are hooking up if so you are getting too much traction for the power you have.Try putting more air in the tires.I always found with the old motor I would 60ft better with 1 or 2 turns of the tire on launch and when I dead hooked my 60fts were crap.I think when you get your 12bolt with 373`s your problem will be fixed 
-1 to 1.5 would be for a rod/rod end car, poly/poly lca's have more movement than a rod/rod.
If you have poly/poly LCA's I would try between -2 to -2.5 pinion angle.
7.6 with 93 mph in the 1/8th calculates to 11.98@115 according to the 1/8th - 1/4 converter here on LS1Tech.
If you have poly/poly LCA's I would try between -2 to -2.5 pinion angle.
7.6 with 93 mph in the 1/8th calculates to 11.98@115 according to the 1/8th - 1/4 converter here on LS1Tech.
ok guys, im going to change my pinion angle and add some air to my tires and see what i get. maybe i'll have some luck with this.
thanks again to all of you with helpful advice. any more is always appreciated
thanks again to all of you with helpful advice. any more is always appreciated
Do one change at a time. Either try air or pinion angle. See if it improves the 60ft.
Try air pressure first, try different psi in 1 psi changes till you get the fastest 60ft, once you get that, then try the pinion angle.
If you don't have an anti roll bar I would at least use an air bag in the right rear.
Get a log book and record all the changes you make, But only do one thing at a time or you'll get mixed up.
Then try the shock settings. Maybe try the second hole in the lower control arms, mess with everything you can adjust that is adjustable, but only do one thing at a time.
Adjusting the rear shocks on my old pile was a 1/2 tenth improvement in the 1/4, travel limiting the front suspension was between being on the back bumper and leaving hovering the front tires for 100 feet 12" off the ground, adjusting the 4 link alone netted me a .10 60ft improvement alone.
Best advice I can give is get your hands dirty and see what happens when you change or adjust things, but do one part at a time and record the results.
Try air pressure first, try different psi in 1 psi changes till you get the fastest 60ft, once you get that, then try the pinion angle.
If you don't have an anti roll bar I would at least use an air bag in the right rear.
Get a log book and record all the changes you make, But only do one thing at a time or you'll get mixed up.
Then try the shock settings. Maybe try the second hole in the lower control arms, mess with everything you can adjust that is adjustable, but only do one thing at a time.
Adjusting the rear shocks on my old pile was a 1/2 tenth improvement in the 1/4, travel limiting the front suspension was between being on the back bumper and leaving hovering the front tires for 100 feet 12" off the ground, adjusting the 4 link alone netted me a .10 60ft improvement alone.
Best advice I can give is get your hands dirty and see what happens when you change or adjust things, but do one part at a time and record the results.
