Front or Rear suspention?
Front or Rear suspention? My setup is in my sig. Im looking to better my current time by doing some suspension. I have a cam to put in but Im really enjoying seeing what the car is capable of as it sits as far as power mods go. Im running stock shocks and springs all the way around. Ive currently cut a best of 1.63 60ft going to a 12.3 on 26-10.5-16 et streets. Im looking to add some shocks. Now Im on a little bit of a budget. I can afford to do the front OR the rear. So what would I benifit more from, the front or rear? Ill be adding the other half in a month or two. Thanks!!
Jon
Jon
QA1 "r" shock up front, Competition 3 way engineering in the rear.
You could reuse the springs if money is really tight.
If you want to do one vs the other go with the front IMO.
You could reuse the springs if money is really tight.
If you want to do one vs the other go with the front IMO.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
I was on a budget also and was lucky and found a guy on the boards selling QA1 12 way fronts for a good price and I got the cheep Comp eng 3ways in the rear, I still haven't dialed it in but that is the only suspension I have done to the car too...
so keep and eye on the board classifieds...
so keep and eye on the board classifieds...
They are both important but, if you are only going to do one, I'd do the rears first. QA1 12 way single adjustable for a good value. Until you get the front done, when you go to the track, you can unhook one side of your front sway bar that will help the front end work better on the launch.
Thanks for the replies. I have been running with no front sway bar for a while now. I was thinking QA1's up front and comps in the back for the time being. Would I be ok running 275lb spring and still driving on the street? I already have a spool and no front sway bar so I'm deff not trying to go for handling. Thanks
Jon
Jon
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Verdad Gallardo I have 275# up front, C/E in the rear with coil over springs out back.
When you get the "r" serious front shock and drive it on the street turn it up towards the firm side, I usually cruise with mine on #4 or #5 when I have a long drive out of town.
I'd run the rears set to 50/50 to start and when you race it set the fronts to full loose, then tighten them up to take out any needed lift until you get the best 60ft.
When you get the "r" serious front shock and drive it on the street turn it up towards the firm side, I usually cruise with mine on #4 or #5 when I have a long drive out of town.
I'd run the rears set to 50/50 to start and when you race it set the fronts to full loose, then tighten them up to take out any needed lift until you get the best 60ft.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,089
Likes: 3
From: West Linn, Oregon
I have 275# up front, C/E in the rear with coil over springs out back.
When you get the "r" serious front shock and drive it on the street turn it up towards the firm side, I usually cruise with mine on #4 or #5 when I have a long drive out of town.
I'd run the rears set to 50/50 to start and when you race it set the fronts to full loose, then tighten them up to take out any needed lift until you get the best 60ft.
When you get the "r" serious front shock and drive it on the street turn it up towards the firm side, I usually cruise with mine on #4 or #5 when I have a long drive out of town.
I'd run the rears set to 50/50 to start and when you race it set the fronts to full loose, then tighten them up to take out any needed lift until you get the best 60ft.
I'd only do one at a time, adjust the shocks till you get a better 60ft, then add some preload to get the car to launch straight, try a little more preload and see if you gain or lose et in the 60ft.
This is the first time out of course, stiffen the rear shocks and launch it, if it goes faster then leave the rear shocks alone and try to adjust the sway bar a little till you find the sweet spot on it, then start trying to limit the front lift more and more until you can get it to leave hard each time without spinning and only needing to pick the front up so much.
Make a log book with all of your settings so you can see how the car is reacting and can go back to a previous setup that works if you end up changing too much and get lost.
Also any time you go race have a buddy video it, a good camera person, not one that talks to whole time out their *** and shakes and moves the camera all around, get good quality videos of the car leaving and watch them and see what it's doing, it's also good to see the changes rather than just make them and drive it.
If that's your car in the photo, it seems like the shocks are soft in the back, either that or it sure squats a lot for a 12 sec car
Here's a photo of my 1st project leaving on a 250 shot of nitrous off the transbrake, you can see it leaves pretty level and it's not going to the moon.
This is the first time out of course, stiffen the rear shocks and launch it, if it goes faster then leave the rear shocks alone and try to adjust the sway bar a little till you find the sweet spot on it, then start trying to limit the front lift more and more until you can get it to leave hard each time without spinning and only needing to pick the front up so much.
Make a log book with all of your settings so you can see how the car is reacting and can go back to a previous setup that works if you end up changing too much and get lost.
Also any time you go race have a buddy video it, a good camera person, not one that talks to whole time out their *** and shakes and moves the camera all around, get good quality videos of the car leaving and watch them and see what it's doing, it's also good to see the changes rather than just make them and drive it.
If that's your car in the photo, it seems like the shocks are soft in the back, either that or it sure squats a lot for a 12 sec car
Here's a photo of my 1st project leaving on a 250 shot of nitrous off the transbrake, you can see it leaves pretty level and it's not going to the moon.
Last edited by RAGENZ28; Feb 1, 2008 at 04:42 PM.
Only reason I don't like the CE 3 ways is that you have to take them off to adjust them. QA1's also are 12 way. That being said I have the CE's in the back of the Camaro, just worked that way though QA1's will be on the car when I have time.
I guess if you are going to do front and rear it does not matter, but the fronts help more. The rears in your case help in case you are getting wheel hop and need to stiffen it up, you never want to go too soft in back. M6 cars can sometimes require running the rears stiffer than stock to reduce wheel hop. But you have to experiment.
Assume the stockers are 50/50.
I suggest keeping stock springs most of us don't even know how to pick a different spring rate.
Camaro is A3, has gone 1.48 on motor, and 1.38 on spray. Front QA1's at 1 typically up here, and the rear CE's are like 50/50. This is on 28x10.5 ET Drags at 14 cold. Stock springs front and rear.
Formy has gone 1.35 on 325 DR's. Front QA1's at 1 or 2, and rears at 7 on the firm side. Tires at 17. Had an earlier pass where I had some tire hop, so I went from 8/8 on the shocks to 7/7. Also went from 18 to 17 psi. Stock springs in front, softer QA1 springs up front which I don't like the car dives too much.
I guess if you are going to do front and rear it does not matter, but the fronts help more. The rears in your case help in case you are getting wheel hop and need to stiffen it up, you never want to go too soft in back. M6 cars can sometimes require running the rears stiffer than stock to reduce wheel hop. But you have to experiment.
Assume the stockers are 50/50.
I suggest keeping stock springs most of us don't even know how to pick a different spring rate.
Camaro is A3, has gone 1.48 on motor, and 1.38 on spray. Front QA1's at 1 typically up here, and the rear CE's are like 50/50. This is on 28x10.5 ET Drags at 14 cold. Stock springs front and rear.
Formy has gone 1.35 on 325 DR's. Front QA1's at 1 or 2, and rears at 7 on the firm side. Tires at 17. Had an earlier pass where I had some tire hop, so I went from 8/8 on the shocks to 7/7. Also went from 18 to 17 psi. Stock springs in front, softer QA1 springs up front which I don't like the car dives too much.