I posted on here about my previous best 1/4 which was 12.2 @ 118 with a 2.0 60" on 18" DRs 555r. 98 Trans Am A4 (Transmission with only 20k, out of a 02 SS) with lid catback and 150 shot. And I mentioned I had a smi built trans and 4k converter. And the advice was to get some MT's and throw the stall in. And the result's...
Okay guys well I finally got a set of new 275/50/15 MT ET street radial's and mounted them on some old 3rd gen style firebird wheels. I also added my 4k stall converter and strickly performance a sponser on here hooked me up with a free tune. Took care of the stall wall problem. He took out 2 degrees of timing from 3600rpm and up since I spray and to play it safe untill I get it on the dyno. It shifts around 6400 rpm, from 1st to 2nd at wot it bounces on the limiter once then shifts. And I think the fan temp setting is at 180, alittle to low I think cause they just stay on the whole time.
Thanks SP
Well I couldn't wait to test it out so I mounted the tires set to 20 psi. I was going to run my cousin in his r6 bike with me on the spray then ran into a local 07 GT mustang with a rear mount turbo. He didn't want to run me on spray cause he said he gets to much wheel hop, blah, blah, blah. I said I would set him out a lenght with me off the bottle, then we finally agreed to a rolling start, so we did a 20 mph roll and I beat him by about a car or two. BTW these runs are out in the country were there is 0 traffic. Then I lined up with the r6 heads up but I got nasty wheel spin, then heated up the tires, and still way too much wheel spin. I then got a run with fox body with a 347 trick flow twisted wedge heads and cam and all the extra bolt on's I was off the bottle for this run again. I then dropped the psi to 18, lined up with him and took off on idle, the tires spined like crazy and got alittle sideway's not crazy. None the less I took the win on that run by a fender, when it came time to shift I looked at the rpms and noticed when it went past 6k the fox would gain, not sure if my shift points are too high were Im not making any power.
But I did a couple solo runs and I couldn't get it to hook tired easying into the throttle and still wheel spin even a 10 mph wot run they spin and I get sideways.
Sorry for the long story, thought I would just share with you guy's.
Not sure what psi to set the tires at? Or if you guys have any advice lmk.
Stock Longblock 98 Trans Am
Mods are
Free mods
Borla catback
SLP lid
SLP fan switch
PP thorttle body
4k stall
Comp enginerring rear shocks set at 50/50
Bumper delete
NX 150 when needed
Factory GU5, 3.23 gears
I weighed the car at a scale and it weighs 3360 and I weigh 250.lol
Also I just checked out the tires and they look like the thread part is peeling, I think it might be from the burnout's on the street. The street's a burned out on are real smooth though.
Thanks in advance

 

Do you have any other chassis mods?

One problem is a lot of people talk to people on here and get advice based for track only cars, which really doesn't apply to the street.

A 275 50 15 is a tire that will work on the track but unless you have some good chassis parts and chassis tuned is pretty much junk.

I'm not an expert drag racer at the track so I won't tell you what to do, but as far as street racing I did it almost every weekend for 10 years and if you want the car to hook on the street, I would definitely go with a bigger tire.

For a car you race on the street I would go to the 325 50 15. You have the rear shocks which would be good. I don't see anything about lower control arms, torque arm, front shocks, front springs, anti roll bar, LCA relocation brackets, sway bar removed or much of the basic chassis parts to get the car to hook.

So to make a long story short, I would go to the 325 50 15, get adjustable front "r" series drag shocks, get relocation brackets and an adjustable torque arm.

If you can run 118 mph you have a ton of traction improvement to make, considering I have run 10.90's around the same mph as you're running now with 1.4 60ft's, when I was running at that power level.

If you are on a budget, I would go to the larger tire first and add the front shocks, and relocation brackets.

 

were you using vht?

 

So a 28" tire is better for hooking up on the street then a 26"? The 325/50/15 is the size I was debating on between the one I got. I forgot to mention that I removed the front swaybar, but other than that and the rear comp's and a poly TA mount, everything else is stock. I don't feel any wheel hop, seems like there just lighting up all through first gear. Yeah I'm on a budget, I was thing about either some 15x3.5 welds or "R" series front shocks. I just goggled the wheels that I have the MT's mounted on and there 15x7. Do you think there's any way I can make the 275/50/16 hook on the street, or is the 28" what I need? No wonder all of the faster street guys run 28"s, I always asked why they would do that. Me thinking it would hurt them with the 3.23's

No vht I ordered 2 gallons but turns out the supplier doesn't have any.

Thanks

 

The 275/50's will work on the street. If you have a smooth country road with no traffic or cops to bother you, take advantage of it. Prep that bitch like its Rt.66. I see no reason why at your mod level and gear that you need anything bigger than a 26" tire. Get the shocks and some relocation brackets, then you should have no problem on motor. Find out what works best for shock settings at the track and then try it on the street with maybe 1-2 psi less in the tires. the spray you might need to ramp/delay until you get skinnies, control arms, torque arm, etc. No big deal, leave on motor if you have to then hit the spray when you have enough wheel speed. maybe jet it a little bigger to have better top end. Street racing is about a clean start through managing your power and out mphing them on the big end. IMO, the 28's are going to kill mph and scare people. If you have a 28" tire around chicagoland street racing, the car better be fast or you're never going to get a good race

 

You don't need more then a 26'' tire to hook. I cut 1.42 60's N/A on a 26'' tire and I stick to the streets hard too. My susp-mods are nothing more then others. lca's w/relocat-brackets,hal qa1's,BMR rear drag sway(this helped a lot from 1.51 60's to 1.42 60's alone) and the fraim is walded...thats all. The tire I run is a M&H Racemaster 26x11.5x15 cheeter slick. www.intercotire.com

 

Yeah there's no lights, or traffic. I guess I should call it country racing instead of street racing, because people think it's literaly on a busy street when said that way.
How do you suggest I prep the road, there's some othere guys about an 1hour away that have a prepped street and they get 9 sec cars to hang wheel.
I would meassure out the 1320, but how should the vht be laid out. Before the starting line or on?
I hear you on the 28" not getting a race, it's bad enough my wheels stick redneck style due to the old school backspaing of the rim... Dont know why but the guys were intimidated by it. lol A full set of some weld's are on the list too.
M&H is local to me and it's what most of the guys around here use, but I thought Id try the much talked about MT's.
Thanks

 

Don't know if I mentioned it but the right rear of the car sags more than the left when parked, I thought it was the shocks but after I swapped them for the comp's it still leans. Could it be the spring that's taken it's toll, since the rear right is were most of the weight is transfered? Whenever I get on it a bit the rear right sinks.

 

Everyone has their own special way to prep roads. its hilarious watching some people do it. Basically sweep the road, about 25ft before and after the starting line or however far you're going to lay vht out. I've watched some people lay it as far as 200 feet out. spray a thin layer of vht cut with a little bit of alcohol, so it doesnt clog your sprayer, over the swept surface and let it dry. Once dry you and your friends have a burnout parade. Line up your car about a car and half behind the starting line, pour a small amount of uncut vht in front of your tires, roll into the vht, do the biggest burnout ever and carry as far past the line as possible. you and your friends do this as much as you feel like wasting rubber. the road should hook decent that day, but after a few sessions of racing, using vht for every burnout, the road should hook comparably if not better than your local tracks.




P.S. have fun cleaning your car after doing vht burnouts