Six speed launch help?
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
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Six speed launch help? Ok im not new to this site and i know how to search and i have i just find basic info like lauch at 3500 and so.. what im looking for is some really good info. This will also help others when they search in the future.
I have a 98 TA with a base line of 342hp and 355hp not includeing the 100 shot i have one it. I also have nitto DR 315s on the back. I know that my 10 bolt is going to hate me but i need just one good run to calm my nurves.
I know how to drive i just cant launch. my last 3 times at the track have been 2.6 .2.4 and 2.3 i know that this sucks lol.
How are you guys doing it.. Starting off slow and slipping the clutch.... Im looking for ( what RPM- clutch slippage- wot as soon as you dump if you dump- ect.) im sure that there are many others out there that would like some detailed info.
thanks for taking some time and responding
MODS...98 TA M6-lid-LT-CB-SFC-315 NITTO
Time 60ft 2.326
1/8 9.270
1/4 13.8 at 110
Now before you say anything that run my nitrous sprayed just fuel so it is all jacked up but im looking for help on the launch. thanks
I have a 98 TA with a base line of 342hp and 355hp not includeing the 100 shot i have one it. I also have nitto DR 315s on the back. I know that my 10 bolt is going to hate me but i need just one good run to calm my nurves.
I know how to drive i just cant launch. my last 3 times at the track have been 2.6 .2.4 and 2.3 i know that this sucks lol.
How are you guys doing it.. Starting off slow and slipping the clutch.... Im looking for ( what RPM- clutch slippage- wot as soon as you dump if you dump- ect.) im sure that there are many others out there that would like some detailed info.
thanks for taking some time and responding
MODS...98 TA M6-lid-LT-CB-SFC-315 NITTO
Time 60ft 2.326
1/8 9.270
1/4 13.8 at 110
Now before you say anything that run my nitrous sprayed just fuel so it is all jacked up but im looking for help on the launch. thanks
Try to ease off the clutch for about 5 feet then let off completely. The car will go on its own. Ease the gas Until your all the way off of the clutch. Then press the gas SLOWLY. Maybe you CAN NOT put the pedal to the floor in first gear. Slowly eccelerate. When you feel the tires start to slip just ease off the gas just a little bit or hold it and restart to push the pedal down slowely. All vehicles are different so I cant tell you exactly but if you aren't already doing what I m saying try.
Check your torque arm and make sure its tight on the rear and the mount on the trans isn't missing or wore out. If its stock you can put it a poly torque arm mount or replace the entire torque arm. Torque arm and LCA's will help a great amount.
Check your torque arm and make sure its tight on the rear and the mount on the trans isn't missing or wore out. If its stock you can put it a poly torque arm mount or replace the entire torque arm. Torque arm and LCA's will help a great amount.
I ease my gas pedal then when completely off the clutch I ease off the gas and then slam it down. Your tires will not spin if your not on the gas. Hard to explain You would have to watch me.
First and foremost, HEAT those nittos GOOD!! They LOVE heat. Might want to go to about 16-18psi before the burnout. Be around 19-21 psi hot.
Secondly yes i all depends on what mods you have suspension wise, how it is set up if adj. parts are being used and how centered the rear is.
All things being equal, Stock suspension with a DR. I'd slip it from 2500rpm's. A quick slip if traction will hold. You'll have to do a lil experimenting though for the street/track prep you are using.
Modded suspension you can start going higher.
Secondly yes i all depends on what mods you have suspension wise, how it is set up if adj. parts are being used and how centered the rear is.
All things being equal, Stock suspension with a DR. I'd slip it from 2500rpm's. A quick slip if traction will hold. You'll have to do a lil experimenting though for the street/track prep you are using.
Modded suspension you can start going higher.
On my old camaro with 26" mt et street radials, umi torque arm and comp engineering rear shocks everything else stock and good track prep; I would take it to about 3500 and dump the clutch with plenty of throttle. Any lower rpm it would bog really bad. I never took it any higher because I wasn't sure what kinda clutch it had in it since it never slipped after putting a new master in. That was also on a cam only with 150 shot.
Nittos just suck ***. Before my 12bolt and slicks I would stage my car around 2,000rpm's or so and just dump the clutch and floor it.My car would not spin at all and would cut 1.9's on nittos. Now on the slicks 1.42's all motor. I never did the clutch slip thing just a dump and go from the highest rpm I could with no or VERRY little spin.
get you a two step and youll be golden. mastering the launch is tough. i always see people bog when they try to dump it. its tough to drive a manual at the track unless youre jrod, or joe huneycutt. good luck
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12 Second Club
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Step 1:
Have at least 4.10 to 4.30 gears. This is extremely important. Too little gear will bog the car and cause parts breakage due to excessive loading of the drivetrain. Shoot for starting ratio (1rst gear X rear end ratio) around 13.5 or as high as your trap speed will allow.
Step 2:
Good wrinkle wall slicks. M/T et Streets work well on manual trans
Step 3:
Leave as high as needed to shock the tires into motion this could be between 4500 and 6000.
Step 4:
Dump the clutch at high revs at same time as wide opening the throttle.
The tires shouls slip, not spin, just enough to get the car out. Once the car is out there and the clutch and everythings locked up, the motor must be turning close to peak torque. If the motor is pulled down too low the car will bog and parts will break.
Play with air pressure to get just the right amount of slip out of the tires.
If you are afraid to leave this high, realize you are more likely to break the car from bogging it leaving low than leaving high.
Have at least 4.10 to 4.30 gears. This is extremely important. Too little gear will bog the car and cause parts breakage due to excessive loading of the drivetrain. Shoot for starting ratio (1rst gear X rear end ratio) around 13.5 or as high as your trap speed will allow.
Step 2:
Good wrinkle wall slicks. M/T et Streets work well on manual trans
Step 3:
Leave as high as needed to shock the tires into motion this could be between 4500 and 6000.
Step 4:
Dump the clutch at high revs at same time as wide opening the throttle.
The tires shouls slip, not spin, just enough to get the car out. Once the car is out there and the clutch and everythings locked up, the motor must be turning close to peak torque. If the motor is pulled down too low the car will bog and parts will break.
Play with air pressure to get just the right amount of slip out of the tires.
If you are afraid to leave this high, realize you are more likely to break the car from bogging it leaving low than leaving high.
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....Mods in sig, on 275 MT Drag Radials...The clutch is my concern here..Its just a stock LS6 style clutch. I have 4.30s to dump on, not sure where to begin.. 
Whats better for it?...Just dump the thing? Some slip?... 
with a 315 nitto on stock suspension with that m6 you should atleast get into the 1.9x 60' range. heat those things quite a bit and start around 3k and side step the clutch, when you feel them starting to hook more (probably 5-10 feet out) roll into the throttle. if you bog your 60' will suck *** since the stock 3:42 gears will take quite a while to help you recover.
Step 1:
Have at least 4.10 to 4.30 gears. This is extremely important. Too little gear will bog the car and cause parts breakage due to excessive loading of the drivetrain. Shoot for starting ratio (1rst gear X rear end ratio) around 13.5 or as high as your trap speed will allow.
Step 2:
Good wrinkle wall slicks. M/T et Streets work well on manual trans
Step 3:
Leave as high as needed to shock the tires into motion this could be between 4500 and 6000.
Step 4:
Dump the clutch at high revs at same time as wide opening the throttle.
The tires shouls slip, not spin, just enough to get the car out. Once the car is out there and the clutch and everythings locked up, the motor must be turning close to peak torque. If the motor is pulled down too low the car will bog and parts will break.
Play with air pressure to get just the right amount of slip out of the tires.
If you are afraid to leave this high, realize you are more likely to break the car from bogging it leaving low than leaving high.
Have at least 4.10 to 4.30 gears. This is extremely important. Too little gear will bog the car and cause parts breakage due to excessive loading of the drivetrain. Shoot for starting ratio (1rst gear X rear end ratio) around 13.5 or as high as your trap speed will allow.
Step 2:
Good wrinkle wall slicks. M/T et Streets work well on manual trans
Step 3:
Leave as high as needed to shock the tires into motion this could be between 4500 and 6000.
Step 4:
Dump the clutch at high revs at same time as wide opening the throttle.
The tires shouls slip, not spin, just enough to get the car out. Once the car is out there and the clutch and everythings locked up, the motor must be turning close to peak torque. If the motor is pulled down too low the car will bog and parts will break.
Play with air pressure to get just the right amount of slip out of the tires.
If you are afraid to leave this high, realize you are more likely to break the car from bogging it leaving low than leaving high.
12 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
Just dump it. Slipping the clutch out of the hole is not only hopelessly inconsistent, but brutal on the clutch, especially a stock one. The more gear you run the less aggressive clutch is needed. It sounds like you have enough gear. Tires must slip not the clutch. Full out race cars will slip the clutch out some, but this is a tunable setup with sintered iron disk and long style plate. It must be deglazed every 20 passes and replaced each season. PP must be replaced every two yrs. You don't want this, so slip the tires some instead. My experiance with the drag radials was that they are far too violent and not at all conducive to a clutch car. Slipping these created wheelhop not experienced with a good set of wrinke walls. I have seen some guys running them at the track with a stick that say they like the D.R.s, but I wonder if they are the same guys on the forum whining about worn out clutches...
Best wishes and good luck. I learned to make a clutch car work the hard way. Just dump it. Slipping the clutch out of the hole is not only hopelessly inconsistent, but brutal on the clutch, especially a stock one. The more gear you run the less aggressive clutch is needed. It sounds like you have enough gear. Tires must slip not the clutch. Full out race cars will slip the clutch out some, but this is a tunable setup with sintered iron disk and long style plate. It must be deglazed every 20 passes and replaced each season. PP must be replaced every two yrs. You don't want this, so slip the tires some instead. My experiance with the drag radials was that they are far too violent and not at all conducive to a clutch car. Slipping these created wheelhop not experienced with a good set of wrinke walls. I have seen some guys running them at the track with a stick that say they like the D.R.s, but I wonder if they are the same guys on the forum whining about worn out clutches... Best wishes and good luck. I learned to make a clutch car work the hard way.
Best wishes and good luck. I learned to make a clutch car work the hard way.Last edited by LS1Silverado05; Feb 18, 2008 at 11:29 PM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
I have a 2000ss m6 i run nitto dr's and dump the clutch at 4500 this only got me a 2.09 sixty. Lots of guys at the strip said to slip the clutch but i never did. I am now installing a spec stage 3 and billet steel fly wheel and they advised me not to slip the clutch at all just to dump it.