4th Gen BBC Project
03-24-2008, 04:02 PM
#23
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this is what RHS' website says as cast... usually vendors tend to over rate their products... i imagine he took yours to atleast a 345cc maybe even a 350cc to get 400cfm+ even on a "slutty" flow bench....
im doing the same thing in a 02 z28 as far as a BBC stuffed into a 4th gen goes...
let us know your times.... BBC's are sexy
03-24-2008, 04:22 PM
#24
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Here is my post on CamaroZ28 when I first got them and had the work done. I haven't measured them, taken pics etc. since I got them back. Just been sitting in the boxes at the shop.
Finally was able to drop the intake and heads off at Lloyds place yesterday and he was nice enough to take a break and flow the heads right there in front of me. It was really cool seeing how it all worked. Here are the "before" numbers and I'll update with the "after" numbers once I get them back in a couple of weeks.
Flowed @ 28" on a 4.310 bore fixture with 2.25/1.88 Manley Severe Duty Valves
.100 80/ ?
.200 142/106
.300 203/145
.400 259/184
.500 310/218
.600 353/241
.700 380/259
.800 388/269
For comparisons sake here are the advertised numbers from the RHS website.
.100 75/62
.200 166/110
.300 246/160
.400 309/195
.500 340/229
.600 360/248
.700 375/265
The peak numbers are pretty close, but you can see the low lift numbers are a little off. RHS supplied no information on how the test was performed other than @ 28", so I don't know how much of an apples to apples comparison it is in regards to bore fixture size, radius inlet, exhaust pipe, etc.
Flowed @ 28" on a 4.310 bore fixture with 2.25/1.88 Manley Severe Duty Valves
.100 80/ ?
.200 142/106
.300 203/145
.400 259/184
.500 310/218
.600 353/241
.700 380/259
.800 388/269
For comparisons sake here are the advertised numbers from the RHS website.
.100 75/62
.200 166/110
.300 246/160
.400 309/195
.500 340/229
.600 360/248
.700 375/265
The peak numbers are pretty close, but you can see the low lift numbers are a little off. RHS supplied no information on how the test was performed other than @ 28", so I don't know how much of an apples to apples comparison it is in regards to bore fixture size, radius inlet, exhaust pipe, etc.
03-24-2008, 06:12 PM
#26
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Here is the flow sheet, end runner on a 4.310 bore fixture and yes they are the 320cc version:
Last edited by ulakovic22; 03-24-2008 at 07:27 PM.
03-25-2008, 02:13 PM
#30
Looks good, I am a big fan of air-gap intakes (all 4 sides) though but maybe you are trying to keep the stock hood. Nice looking car also.
I can't wait to tear into my motor this next winter and build it up a lot more
RHS has some pretty nice heads, I am going to have my GMPP heads and strip dominator intake worked my a local and see how what I get out of 13.1 compresion or so.
Going for 8.8's on a 300 shot with a 468 and small tire.
I can't wait to tear into my motor this next winter and build it up a lot more
RHS has some pretty nice heads, I am going to have my GMPP heads and strip dominator intake worked my a local and see how what I get out of 13.1 compresion or so.
Going for 8.8's on a 300 shot with a 468 and small tire.
Last edited by JUICED96Z; 03-25-2008 at 02:19 PM.
03-25-2008, 03:24 PM
#31
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Yeah I'm trying to keep the stock hood. With a decent elbow all I had to do was cut the center hood support and turn the TB upside down for it all to fit and just barely clear the thermostat housing. That's the difficult part, routing the cooling lines and trying to keep the WS6 hood functional.
03-26-2008, 03:46 PM
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Crower advertises them to 850hp and they are 4340 Chromemoly Steel. Bolts are 180,000 psi. If my calculations on the engine are right I should be right around there. Any higher and I'll have to go Oliver or something.
03-26-2008, 03:54 PM
#35
Two questions, why only 11:1 compression and why the 260/272 108 .703/.713 cam?
11-1 with an iron head is too much compression for regular pump gas, so at that point why not run more compression since you'll run race gas anyways?
The cam with a 108 lobe will run good on the motor, but not as well on the nitrous. I would consider the same cam profile, lift and duration but use a 112-114 lobe.
The wider lobe will work better with nitrous, yes it'll not run as hard on the motor, but when you spray the car it'll be faster on the nitrous which will in the end give you a faster car.
Thing is do you want to go 9.9 on the motor and 9.0 on the nitrous or 10.1 on the motor and 8.80 on the nitrous? Just an example of the difference running a motor only style cam vs nitrous based cam. Either way the car will be fastest on the nitrous so why not build it to work best with the nitrous to start with.
11-1 with an iron head is too much compression for regular pump gas, so at that point why not run more compression since you'll run race gas anyways?
The cam with a 108 lobe will run good on the motor, but not as well on the nitrous. I would consider the same cam profile, lift and duration but use a 112-114 lobe.
The wider lobe will work better with nitrous, yes it'll not run as hard on the motor, but when you spray the car it'll be faster on the nitrous which will in the end give you a faster car.
Thing is do you want to go 9.9 on the motor and 9.0 on the nitrous or 10.1 on the motor and 8.80 on the nitrous? Just an example of the difference running a motor only style cam vs nitrous based cam. Either way the car will be fastest on the nitrous so why not build it to work best with the nitrous to start with.
03-26-2008, 04:19 PM
#36
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The cam with a 108 lobe will run good on the motor, but not as well on the nitrous. I would consider the same cam profile, lift and duration but use a 112-114 lobe.
The wider lobe will work better with nitrous, yes it'll not run as hard on the motor, but when you spray the car it'll be faster on the nitrous which will in the end give you a faster car.
The wider lobe will work better with nitrous, yes it'll not run as hard on the motor, but when you spray the car it'll be faster on the nitrous which will in the end give you a faster car.
03-26-2008, 05:41 PM
#38
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imho if ur gonna be pushin 850 just switch rods im sure you would rather spend 800 on new rods than havin them break and ruin the block pistons crank possibly heads. sorry but i always build my motors to be as safe as possible im buildin a 383 stroker and everythings forged, im filling the block half way and puttin 3 valley girdles in, and im lookin to push 700 on motor and about a 250 shot.
03-26-2008, 05:59 PM
#39
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I know what you mean but the deal on the rods I got was too good to pass up. They might as well been free. In any case I don't tend to over build motors, I'm not going to be running this motor all out all the time in any series or anything. This is more of a fun project building a badass street/strip car with stuff laying around the shop. I should be alright.
