Rules for battery
#1
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado Springs
Rules for battery
So im looking into relocating the battery into the spare tire area i have a optima and i was wondering if i would still be able to run at the track if its mounted but not sealed in a box basically if i were to use the BMR relocation bracket could i still take it to the track and be fine?
#3
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
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#9
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From: Fort Collins, Colorado Springs
i couldnt tell you exactly but what it does is breaks the circuit from the alternator and the battery so with the flip of the switch it will essentially kill the engine because it will open the circuits from both supplies
#10
you can either turn a switch from side to side
or with the push pull, it just does the same thing, to trip the breaker off
Since I'm a street car, not running THAT fast 10.50-11? I'm not installing a cutoff, I'm not drilling into the side of my car.
or with the push pull, it just does the same thing, to trip the breaker off
Since I'm a street car, not running THAT fast 10.50-11? I'm not installing a cutoff, I'm not drilling into the side of my car.
#12
#13
The summit premium battery relocation kit is a great deal for $110. Comes with 1 gauge cable, NHRA approved battery box (same as moroso), fittings etc.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Then you need the flaming river push/pull switch (or similar).
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I installed mine directly on the back and cut and re-tapped the rod. It comes out through the bowtie logo on the camaro.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Then you need the flaming river push/pull switch (or similar).
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I installed mine directly on the back and cut and re-tapped the rod. It comes out through the bowtie logo on the camaro.
#14
^^ I ordered that, just came in yesterday
The ONLY spot I can think to put mine, is where you put the key for the rear hatch...but then how the hell am i supposed to open the rear hatch with the key if I need to??
The ONLY spot I can think to put mine, is where you put the key for the rear hatch...but then how the hell am i supposed to open the rear hatch with the key if I need to??
#15
What does everyone think of this idea...and would it be LEGAL since it isn't on the rear of the car...sorta
on my TA where the radio antenna comes out, could I remove that, and replaced it with the cutoff switch above? I don't know how much room they need to push/pull?
Just make it a "Push Off" switch, so if needed, just slap it down?
it would be pretty hidden....sorta defeats the purpose of the kill switch I guess lol
on my TA where the radio antenna comes out, could I remove that, and replaced it with the cutoff switch above? I don't know how much room they need to push/pull?
Just make it a "Push Off" switch, so if needed, just slap it down?
it would be pretty hidden....sorta defeats the purpose of the kill switch I guess lol
#17
The only thing I would worry about with that is someone goign to push.pull the switch and hitting the 1/4 those dent pretty easy if you hit them like that, sen it happen once.
IMO, it would work/look fine, I don't know how the tech guys would like it, it certainly will look nice as long as the handle isn't sticking up a mile.
IMO, it would work/look fine, I don't know how the tech guys would like it, it certainly will look nice as long as the handle isn't sticking up a mile.
#19
I think it is a bad idea, the cut off should always be at the rear of the car, "clearly" marked and visible. Accidents "DO" happen even though it will "NEVER" happen to us having some guy trying to find your cut off switch while your car is flipped on its roof and you're knocked out and gas is pumping all over the ground after the safety crew takes 60 seconds or more to get down to your car and it is already on fire or could catch on fire isn't too smart.
The battery should be put in a box or have a firewall. My thing is if you want to race which is dangerous to start with, why wouldn't you use all of the available safety you can?
I've crashed and almost been dead, after a few surgeries and a few extra screws and metal bars and couple feet of scars, I take the required safety stuff serious, trying to get by tech to save a few pounds, few bucks or for the looks of your car isn't the main issue, your life is...
The battery should be put in a box or have a firewall. My thing is if you want to race which is dangerous to start with, why wouldn't you use all of the available safety you can?
I've crashed and almost been dead, after a few surgeries and a few extra screws and metal bars and couple feet of scars, I take the required safety stuff serious, trying to get by tech to save a few pounds, few bucks or for the looks of your car isn't the main issue, your life is...
Last edited by RAGENZ28; 04-30-2008 at 02:34 PM.