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Cutting the Dash for a 10pt

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Old May 1, 2008 | 11:48 PM
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Default Cutting the Dash for a 10pt

What kind of tools did you guys use? Also the front a-pillar bars are about 1" in front of the bolts to the metal bar that also goes across. The metal bar is what supports the bottom of the dash. Did any of you guys not use it? Make a custom piece?
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Old May 2, 2008 | 04:56 AM
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I put mine in the car as best I could, and marked it with a sharpie to where I knew I had to cut. Dremel and a sanding drum wirked to go thru the pad and plastic no problems, just do a little at a time, and try to refit. You'll scratch the paint on the cage up and have to redo it, but it's the only way to get it notched tight to the bar. PITA< took me a few hours.


I hope the top of your dash was left in place when they did the cage, or you're gonna be in teh same boat I'm in, having to have the damn windshield pulled so you can reinstall the top. I'm not all too happy about it either
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Old May 2, 2008 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MR NASTY
Also the front a-pillar bars are about 1" in front of the bolts to the metal bar that also goes across.
They are in front of the lower dash mounts?? Do the bars go straight up??

you're in for a long day of cutting if so.
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Old May 2, 2008 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by MR NASTY
What kind of tools did you guys use? Also the front a-pillar bars are about 1" in front of the bolts to the metal bar that also goes across. The metal bar is what supports the bottom of the dash. Did any of you guys not use it? Make a custom piece?
Thanks
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Old May 3, 2008 | 12:06 AM
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Post some pictures so I can see what you're talking about.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JL ws-6
I hope the top of your dash was left in place when they did the cage, or you're gonna be in teh same boat I'm in, having to have the damn windshield pulled so you can reinstall the top. I'm not all too happy about it either
i just had to do the same thing after 2 years of not having the top dash pad in.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 06:52 AM
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I'm not all too happy about it I'll tell ya, but it's gonna get taken care of next week. Car's going back to the fab guy to get that taken care of, along with building the exhaust, putting some good tie down points on the chassis for ease of strapping the car down on the dyno and the trailer, motor plate tabs are going on along with a good solid bar to stop the motor from moving foreward and back (just the motor plate going on, no mid plate)
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Old May 3, 2008 | 12:47 PM
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ok so i notched the dash pretty good. it just doesnt have any bottom support because i cant fit that metal brace. heres some pics of the bolts for the brace.





What i did was jsut cut the tabs off of the brace from each side. The brace is just being supported by the steering column and the lil bolts on the trans tunnel.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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brace being held on by the column
Brace being held on the trans tunnel

the tabs i i cut off each side



I guess i just have to fab up my own tabs. Have any of you guys had to modify that? Sorry for the crappy pics.
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Old May 3, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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I have seen some cages that had to have a tab welded onto the down bar on the front to mount the cross piece to, real pits though because it's hard to tell where you have to have it exactly in order to have it sit in the right spot.

If you are going to weld a tab onto the down bar to mount the dash cross bar to, try to have it be adjustable in some sort of way, like make the attachment hole an oval that you can use a washer on both sides with when you bolt it on. It might come in handy when you go to put the dash back in.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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This is a photo from my Firebird. I used a dremel with a cut-off disk to cut the cover.




The dash bolts to the factory mounts and even the factory guage panel fits with the crossbar behind it. I did have to do some notching for the front bars where they meet the factory sheet metal that the dash attaches to at the top.


Last edited by GIZMO; May 7, 2008 at 11:51 AM.
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