Roll cage!?
Roll cage!? NEW QUESTION!
What are you all using to paint your cage?
I'm just wanting gloss BLACK
Ok I'm about to buy a Cromoly roll cage. It is good up to 9.99 to 8.50 seconds in the 1/4 mile 135 mph yada yada... What do I need to buy to make it legale for a faster E/T / MPH?
What are you all using to paint your cage?
I'm just wanting gloss BLACK
Ok I'm about to buy a Cromoly roll cage. It is good up to 9.99 to 8.50 seconds in the 1/4 mile 135 mph yada yada... What do I need to buy to make it legale for a faster E/T / MPH?
Last edited by BlackSS2001; May 14, 2008 at 04:57 PM.
Funny car cage, bars under the floor plus a few other additional bars.
Basically you add more bars to your existing cage and since it is c-moly you could update to 25.2 which is 6.0 ET or slower, or 25.5 which is 7.50 ET or slower.
Either one will take a good deal of work to upgrade later, if you have the money now and plan to go faster than 8.50 you might consider doing 25.5 or 25.2 now so you don't have to tear down the car twice.
Also the cage you are getting is legal to faster than 135 mph. You'll need a shoot to go faster, not upgrade the cage, but an 8 second car is going to be over 150 mph.
Basically you add more bars to your existing cage and since it is c-moly you could update to 25.2 which is 6.0 ET or slower, or 25.5 which is 7.50 ET or slower.
Either one will take a good deal of work to upgrade later, if you have the money now and plan to go faster than 8.50 you might consider doing 25.5 or 25.2 now so you don't have to tear down the car twice.
Also the cage you are getting is legal to faster than 135 mph. You'll need a shoot to go faster, not upgrade the cage, but an 8 second car is going to be over 150 mph.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Huntertown, IN
We used a Wolfe 8.50 cage as the starting point for a 25.5 cage. It fit really nice. I didn't get it notched which was good because some of the tubes were a little long. That gave us a little room to change things a bit. For example, the main hoop goes through the floor to connect to a cross member below the floor. If you are not doing a 25.5, and want to just do an 8.50 cage, definatly get it notched. It takes alot more tubing and alot more work to go from an 8.50 to a 25.5.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Huntertown, IN
Yeah, thats my point. If I would have got it notched, I would have had to mount the main hoop to the floor with 6x6 plates. Since the tubes were not notched, and therefore longer, we ran them through the floor to a crossmember.
ok. I understand now. I have seen some cars that do run the cage through the floor and build some bad *** bracing under the car to mount them to. Should I think about doing this?
I had a wolfe molly 10 point (for 8.5's and slower) and had it welded in and found out the hard way it costs pretty much just as much to have someone fab the cage themselves and weld it in.
If you are a good welded then go for the kit.
I am going 25.5....... It will not be cheap but I plan to go that fast and don't want to tear the car down twice.
It will be more expensive to get it certified twice and re painted, ect ect not to mention trying to get your car into the chassis shop.
If you are a good welded then go for the kit.
I am going 25.5....... It will not be cheap but I plan to go that fast and don't want to tear the car down twice.
It will be more expensive to get it certified twice and re painted, ect ect not to mention trying to get your car into the chassis shop.
ok lets say when I get this car done, and I end up runing a high 7. I would need to run the 25.5 right.
Dumb question whats the difference between the 25.5 and 25.2? any pics?
Dumb question whats the difference between the 25.5 and 25.2? any pics?
