I figured out the caps would not work the first tiem I looked at them. i have seen some nice ones that srew on but my wheels are not drilled for them


Glad you are up and running again!

 

wow thats crazy! all that over center caps!

 

We take pride to ensure the wheels are machined meticulously from start to finish. I wondered why I never heard back from you when I responded to your e-mail days ago. I knew something wasn't right when you mentioned all four wheels looked bad during driving...and wasn't noticed during tire mounting/balancing. I am happy that you figured it out being the caps were causing your problem (never heard back about the stud-washers…they are usually the first culprit). Generally, you would have received a public message faster if I saw the message. I don't check the boards as often...I’d ask anyone reading this message if they have concerns, to please attempt to contact us on the phone or e-mail for a fast response. I happened to cruise into this section by chance… the wheel section is generally checked first.

As I commented to you in my e-mail, the "spacers" are not a standard spacer. They are actually a milled component that is keyed to the wheel with a register. I was confident this was not the problem. If they were off-center, a shank lug would have not fit through the hole.

Aside from the center-cap, a common problem which throws off almost all aftermarket wheels is the little star washer that surrounds some of the studs from the factory. Most aftermarket wheels do not have a recessed area on the inner mounting surface for the washers. The washers are initially installed on the car for ease of assembly at the manufacture and have no value after that point. Just one of those star washers can make a wheels runnout appear .125” off on one stud which would be very noticeable.

In your case, the standard drag centercaps which are an inexpensive non-functional aesthetic component. The standard drag caps are not made in house and with the mounting area varying in size from different batches (even within the same batch). The wheel centers center cap bore is cut for our billet caps if one so desired (which specs do not change). It would be very difficult to change each wheels milling for each particular cap which would need to be pulled and measured for each wheel. Even so, if a replacement cap was needed, and the bore area was clearanced for a particular cap, swapping to another may be smaller which would then float around in the center of the wheel. Our billet caps would not fit either at that point.

One may ask “why use this cap if it varies”? The answer is, the drag caps are very inexpensive cap if someone wants them. Generally speaking, many do not want to spend 35.00 per cap our high-end 6061 machined piece which is highly polished and built in-house cap. We do offer them for the folks who do want them. They are as every bit of high-quality fit and finish as our wheels.

 

Thanks Steve!!

I appologize, I never saw an email response from you? I just deleted all of my spam this morning before I saw this, so maybe it somehow got caught in there?

Feel free to resend your response.

Also, thanks for the post, it was very informative! Like I stated from the beginning SJM has been GREAT!

 

I paid for the 35.00 high gloss super duper machined caps and my rims so far from SJM have been "DA ****"......

thanks again Steve for taking care of your customers....

 

Glad you got it fixed and the rims are still in good shape, so when are you getting back to the track????

 

I might be able to get a couple of passes in tomorrow, if I get out of work on time...but it's going to be tight. Otherwise I have to wait until Friday.

How much should my rear end move around when going from 1st to reverse etc, now that I have all solid end joints? No bushings anymore.