WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

It seems to lift the front than fall back down.... doesnt lift much. The back doesnt appear to be squating. I know it is on drag radials and street wheels but I wanted to see how much it squats and lifts.

I dont have adj. coilovers or shocks.

Suspension setup is:
-Stock Shocks
-Eibach Lowering Springs (all 4 corners)
-BMR Extreme Torque Arm
-BMR Transmission mount
-Wolfe Racecraft adjustible solid lower control arms
-Wolfe Racecraft rear solid anti-sway bar

Pinion angle is -1.5 degrees.

60ft on those tires was a 1.51 and the pass above 1.59 (partially due to spinning the tires)

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

I'm pretty sure that some adj. shock will help out alot. Also might want to try some more pinion angle (-2). What about tire pressure?

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

whoever launched it was being careful on the launch and you don't want the back to squat. Squating rear ends are wasted energy.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Leaving asy like that will never get you anywhere, the car needs to leave hard.

Get those tires off of there, some real slicks will tell the story. You will need adjustable shocks that I can guarintee as well.

What does it mph like that and what does the car weigh, that will tell the story as to what it should be running.

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

MPH's around 101 like that.... and

on

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

haven't figured out how to launch it on the bottle.

On motor I brake it to 1500 than flash the converter at the light... on the bottle I didnt know what to do... haven't had a chance to figure it out since getting the pinion angle set correctly by RPM vs the other folks not setting it up right and having it at +9

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

never done squeeze, so I can't help you there, just knew that it left weak and it's a good thing it didn't squat. . .good luck!

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

Maybe I also have an issue with how to drive the car.

I have not had much seat time.


How would you guys work the car down the track?

60ft:
-Footbrake to 1500 and flash?
-Powerbrake till it bumps and hold it to 3k+ on the line?
-Stay off the pedal... lightly hold the brake and then mash the pedal?

mph:
-early shift first
-spin the car up close to the limmiter (around 7000+rpm) and dont shift to 3rd
-Shift to 3rd early
-shift the car low around 6krpm


As you can see, I havent started working on how to drive the car. I just drive it. Now I have managed to start working on my .300 and .400 lights..... I am now in the .100 range. That will come down with more practice very quick.

ssracer8

iTrader: (5)

One more tidbit, don't stop the burnout in the box. Your just rolling throught the water and draging it up to the line with you. You should always power out of the box so water doesn't get trapped in the tire thread. Just my two cents. I like your car, and good luck with it.

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

I normally do. That pass with the burnout was with my buddy driving. He was having issues with the linelock and said that he couldnt get the "glaze" off the tires by rolling thru. Maybe that is why it spun so bad...

my pass was a 1.51 (the vid is on my webpage: http://408ws6transam.googlepages.com/home )
his was a 1.59


What else fellas?

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Drag radials don't need a long burn out, get them spinning and at the first sign of smoke let off the line lock and let the car roll forward out of the burn out. Doing too much of a burnout can ball the rubber up which will also take away optimum traction potential of the tire.

As far as launching and shifting try each one, one at a time and see which on works best for your car, keep a log book with all of your track times and suspension settings and only make one change each pass, if the car slows down go back to the settings before and try something else.

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

Good advice.

That is pretty much what I have heard as well. His burnout was long...he said I wasnt doing a long enough one, but apparently with a better 60ft the extra heat didnt help em.

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

will what works on motor apply to the bottle? Meaning can I practice runs on motor to see what works.... than assume that is the optimum approach for the jug?

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

You have Zero wieght transfer. Zero. Car really isn't doing much leaving to speak of.
Lowering springs aren't helping, car looks to have too much rake for your power level right now. List goes on and on. hehe
I would start with adjustable Hals all around, get back to stock height and level the car front to back. Car is heavy so you may as well start with the front shocks at "0" and set the rears around "6".
Start there and see how she goes.

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

Now that is what I was looking for.

What are some good cheap springs? V6 springs... car is fairly heavy. Also.... does anyone have pics of such a setup. And can someone verify that the Eibachs are not the setup to keep. Just a request for a second opinion. I will ask the shop next time I speak to em.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Launching on motor and on the spray are two different animals.

WizeAss

iTrader: (5)

what do most folks with nitrous converter A3's do with around 430rwhp na and 560 on the jug.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

another problem youll have is the amount of torque you produce with tha 4" stroke motor.... youll need a progressor to get it hooked and keep it powering up.... more than likely you'll launch it on a small shot and gradually pour the power to it to the 60ft mark... then it should be wide open.....

again just guessing....

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Hello, as a few others have stated you need some good shocks and the springs. We offer both Strange and QA1. Depending on your budget if you can swing it go with the double adjustables, if thats not an option the single adjustables will be 100% better than the stock shocks. As far as the springs go you will only need rear springs because the front are coil overs. The springs are not affecting you car as much as the shocks are. If you have any questions please give me a call and we can determine whats best for your car. Our sales/tech dept is open MON-FRI 8:30AM-6:00PM EST. Here is a link to our site.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I put my car on the 5400 rpm converter and let go of the transbrake button, foot on the floor with 28 inch slicks on the car.

When I was running the radials I had the best luck bringing the rpm up to about 1100 just enough so the TB had air flowing thru it and the car would respond quickly, and stab the gas as hard and fast as I could, letting off the brake as I did this.

The car definately isn't transferring weight. Put a set of stock springs on the back, you don't nessassarily need the v6 ones, regular stock ws6 springs, ss springs z28 springs whatever will be fine. the fronts I would put the 300 lb hal's on the car with the weight that you're at, the 275's will be too soft for a car as heavy as yours is.

With a motor tune in the car, you should be able to run about 10.8 at that weight, with 445 rw and a 3650 raceweight I got mine down to 10.8 at a track that's far from the fastest in the country.

With the nitrous, it depends how much you are spraying, timing, all that. I'm gonna say with a 150 shot and a relstivly conservative tuneup you should be able to go about 10.1 with that power level and raceweight if the car leaves good, good being like 1.45 or better 60 foot.