454mag

iTrader: (17)

Best r/t I can get is .330 hammering the gas off idle as soon as i see yellow. Car is a h/C ~400 rwhp 4000 stalled auto stock suspension 26/11.5/15 hoosier qtp 3430 lbs. converter is pretty tight so it hits hardest mashing it off idle. Got beat the other night runninig an 11.51 @119 1.61 60 to an 11.56 because I got treed. class is outlaw real street 11.50. any ideas would be appreciated.

rtk434

iTrader: (1)

Can you run a trans brake in that class? Is deep staging allowed? What size front tire and how much air do you have in it? Limit front suspension travel if the car will still hook will help some.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

footbrake stall it to where its about to move.... what tires do you have up front? let air out of them to get some of the roll-out shortened... or buy smaller front tires... stage a little deep(but this takes ET away because you no longer have a run at the tree... same with shortening the roll out...)

you really need a T-brake

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

Yes you want to be up on the converter as high as the car will allow without shoving you through the beams and then roll in as deep as possible. As stated, you will run slower because it knocks off some of the 60ft time, but your reaction will be quicker. I've gone .02-.04s running a 22" front runner at 50psi in them.

You actually want a shorter tire or air up your tire as much as you are comfortable with.

If you are hooking good, you should try to limit the front end travel so it snaps the tires up out of the beams.

Good luck!

Jakes Dad

When you practice are you on a Pro Tree? Going deeper will help you a little. Honestly sounds like you need to anticipate seeing that last yellow and leave a little earlier. Curious why the class is called outlaw and really why you're on a .400 tree?

Jakes Dad

TXCAMSS

iTrader: (60)

.400 tree is a pro-tree and you can't anticipate it.

Also be sure to focus on the 1st yellow after you are staged. If you are watching the whole tree, you will be real late.

That .400 Pro-tree is a whole different animal

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

never anticipate yellow... if a car is setup right you should be close to a decent light every time... for stock suspension classes a .060 light and down is decent for a pro tree...

now for a modified suspension class you better be .025 or less or my pops will put you on the trailer... lol... i love seeing my 59 year old dad chop the tree down on youngsters...

454mag

iTrader: (17)

front tires are 26" radials on 4" prostars at 55 psi. Looks like I am gonna need a looser converter and stall it right up to get any kind of decent rt.

Jakes dad WTF are you smokin dude. Theres nothing to anticipate on a pro tree.

thanks everyone for the ideas. my car si stock suspended but compettitors are not.

Deep staging is allowed but not sure how to do it.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

Try to keep you right heel off the floor. Just have the ball of your foot on the pedal.

Dave J

iTrader: (2)

I have never seen a 11 second class run a .400 protree(thats insane)
you have to do everything you can to get that reaction down
deep stage( keep rolling foward till the prestage light goes out)
as much air as you can run in the tires
I really cant see anyone getting better than a .150 on a .400 protree footbraking with no transbrake at that power level

good luck

Hrod382

It's down right impossible to go red on a .400 tree with a 11 second car, not sure why they'd run that class on a .400 tree.

As for getting you closer, the advice above is good stuff.

rail_lsu303

I'm new to the board, but have been draging for 20+ yrs. I have found by watching the last staging bulbs light up and a 1001 count yeilds me the best lights. Best I've had was a .002 but not consistant. That was in my 68 Nova with 542 rwhp footbraking, running 6.60's with a 1.44 60' at Redline Raceway.Usually around .010 to .025 on a .400 PT. So it can be done on a footbrake car, but the TB equiped cars will eventually kill ya. Can't cut a light on the standard tree for some reason. Always getting a .530 or worse. Turn the tv on when the pros run and try the count on the tree.

ty_ty13

iTrader: (42)

only problem with that is the tree is random every time( may be faster or slower next time)

as long as your ET is there dont worry about your RT.... the only thing deep staging will do is get a better RT but youll lose the same amount of ET.....

you need a Transbrake and more power- bottom line.

Jakes Dad

Jakes Dad

z28_YOU_HO

iTrader: (7)

imagine a lion is about to eat you and give it hell

Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

To deep stage after you light the 2 stage bulbs, move forward alittle more until the top stage light disappears, you have to be quick because if the other guy stages quick that tree is going to drop as soon as you roll forward.

454mag

iTrader: (17)

Thanks again. will try most of the suggestions above. Guess thats the problem when you try to race a street car against race cars. I have to drive the car 100 miles one way to the track so more gear, or a 400 t-brake are out of the question for me. Guy that beat me the other night was running 5:13 gears and a 4 link and is 10 second capable. I will try a looser verter and stall it as high as possible. makes sense to get my heel off the floor also as well as deep staging as the guy only had a fender on me the whole race. Will also concentrate on 1 yellow bulb instead of watching the whole tree.

Coach 02 A3 Z/28

iTrader: (10)

You are going to have to get up on the convert & deep stage to get your car to cut a .400 pro tree light.

If you could not deep stage you would to need a tranny with a t-brake.

Coach

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

Make sure it's the top bulb!

454mag

iTrader: (17)

[QUOTE=GIZMO;9582829]Make sure it's the top bulb![/QUOTE

They all come on at once dont they ?????