help with R/T .400 pro tree
[QUOTE=454mag;9583512]Break both staging beams, and then roll forward until the your front tires are out of the "prestage" beam, but still break the second "stage" beam... That will start the timing system (assuming the other car is also staged) and the other three bulbs will then light (all at the same time) followed by the green. Concentrate on the top bulb of the three to keep yourself from being destracted by anything else, like subconciously waiting for the green light to pop. That's gonna be your best bet without a brake. I'd also like to know what class that's in that et bracket runs on a pro .4 tree. Most would run on a sportsman tree, or even a pro .5 tree.
[QUOTE=454mag;9583512]
Try it.
Leaving off idle is also killing you, because it takes time for the car to react. Getting a good light on a .400 tree will always be tough in a car that runs 11.5's.
Try it.
Leaving off idle is also killing you, because it takes time for the car to react. Getting a good light on a .400 tree will always be tough in a car that runs 11.5's.
For those asking about class rules
http://quikstreetbulletinboard.yuku.com/topic/364
http://quikstreetbulletinboard.yuku....5/t/Rules.html
http://quikstreetbulletinboard.yuku.com/topic/364
http://quikstreetbulletinboard.yuku....5/t/Rules.html
Yeah flashing the converter you ain't gonna cut a good light on the pro tree. Like you said get the better stall and try launching at a higher rpm. It will hurt the 60" a little though. You might consider a gear swap too, every little bit helps. Your car is running strong though, get the converter and it will be better. In the meantime I would try airing up the rear tires a little bit, the converter is weak outta the hole and you probably are airing down more than you need to.
BTW I wouldn't bother putting a brake on a 4l60E for what it's worth.
BTW I wouldn't bother putting a brake on a 4l60E for what it's worth.
