Something is definitely up with your car. You should auto tap it and I think you need some tuning.

I ran a 13.68 @ 104 at Fayetteville in 90 degree heat and 90% humidity in July with the stock 2.73s and the Loudmouth, SLP lid, and FRA as my only mods. And that was with a 60' slight worse than yours, 2.18s.

I would think with 3.73s, headers, and your other mods you should be running in the high 12s - maybe low 13s in our current heat and humidity.

 

Heat and humidity will have an effect, but not that extensive. DON'T SPEND ANY MORE MONEY ON MODS UNTIL YOU GET IT TUNED...my 60 times were high 2.0-2.1 and I ran 12.9 on my airlid/short throw/drag radialed SS, there is absolutely no explanation (other than some serious tuning error) for your poor ETs. Get that thing checked out...

BTW, I know it's been said time and time again, your stock MAF flows enough for over 450hp...put it back on. If you descreen it, just keep an eye on it...

 

i did not have the gears when i went to the track. but im taking your guys advice hitting the dyno saturday and the other day when yall told me to put the stock maf on i went out and did it. i just finished taking the screen off. if i got an a/f gauge would i be able to keep an eye on the juice when sprayed and would it also give me an idea if the maf was giving me any problems?
thanks

 

Probably not many real low mile cars out there anymore, but most LS1s would pick up some ET and MPH after 'breaking in' and 10,000+ miles on the clock. Is yours still really low mileage?

Other than that, weather can make a big difference (up to 0.3 from 100 & humidity to 65 with no humidity).

 

Even if you didn't have 3.73s at the time, with 3.23s you should be running better than 13.9 with those mods.

I think you need to get it auto tapped and with the headers, you need tuning probably,

 

yeah well hopefully i will get it straightened out this weekend. to answer the other question i have a little over 20,000 miles

 

Do a shift kit dude. That car should see 12's no problem. I am not a tech freak on this matter, but I run a granatelli MAF tuned for N2O all the time even when not spraying. My car ran a 12.71 at 109mph and the tranny would not shift into 3rd for a good 3 seconds. The 4l60E blows ***. If you want to make it fast, get a 3000-3600 stall, and spray if you'd like. Something is definitely wrong. That is a weak 60ft time, but it doesn't add up to your overall ET. Your car is struggling and falling on it's face at higher RPM's. Also try installing a cutout. It will let the car breathe a bit more. No real need to change the catback system.

 

Totally disregard the above post. That is bad info and it'll lead you astray. Listen to the Colonel. A-tap you car, get a converter, and ET Streets.

How in the world is a shift kit going to drop 1 full second? Make sure you go back to the stock MAF.

 

I never said it would drop 1 sec. I agree to autotap the car. I disagree with the ET streets. The car is not having a traction problem after the 60ft mark with an A4. He has a decent 60ft time to be on street tires. Listen, the slicks will not help your problem. You'll still be in the 13's no doubt. Your car is not pulling hard enough in the higher RPM's. Take off is not the problem. You should still install a cutout. Flowmasters suck. You don't want to put this extra restriction on an LS1 with LT's and intake work done. All the Flowmaster is doing is choking the motor. You should not worry about slicks until you are in the mid to high 12's range first on street tires. Then you know the time will improve. Before anything else, auto-tap the car and install a cutout.