Cant get a good 60ft!!!
Cant get a good 60ft!!! I have no idea why i cant do a good launch...i have 315 sumitumo tires on the rear, and 360rwhp....my best to date is a 2.1 but my avarge is a 2.2 or a 2.3, what am I doing wrong? I know everyone complains that our track sucks, because they never prep it, but I think I should be pulling at least 2.0's if not better. How do you guys take off the line? I hold the car at about 2k rpms, then when the third yellow light lights up I let off the clutch rather quickly and slowly push the gas down so it doesnt spin as bad. should that be switched around?
Coastal Plains, in Jacksonville...I dont want DR's, Im afraid for my 10-bolt, but my tires hook up well on the streets, just not to well on the strip. What would be a decent 60ft for my car with street tires?
If you want good times you are going to have to buy a good set of tires! If you want to get good times, running the risk of breaking something is part of racing hands down. I run ET Drags pulling low 1.60 60's on a stock 10 bolt with a TA Girdle.
As far as the launch I always say start small and work your way up. You should be able to cut 2.0 60s leaving off idle with the right foot work. Once you can pull that off try a little more rpm, and once you get tires use the same technique but even more rpm.
My girlfriend cut a 2.054 60' in my CTSV, leaving at 1000rpms on 245/40/18 kdw2s. Thats a 3850lbs car with about 390 rwhp at that point in time. Though on the next pass she left at 2000, spun about 10ft, then hooked up, wheel hopped a few time and left pieces of the differential on the track. 10 bolts are tough in comparison to that.
Really try that and see what happens. Sometimes it takes getting used to, but it works.
Jon
Again autos rule at the track. The OP shouldn't expect the 10bolt to last more than one night pulling 1.60s with a 6 speed.
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True but I would atleast try a drag radial if you are looking for a better 60'. Like I said if you aren't breaking something, then you aren't drag racing!
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I wouldn't expect any better with those tires...
If you want to try to keep your rear intact, get some dr's and don't launch the **** out of it. That's what I do. Both of my stock 10 bolts have held up to countless passes with dr's on them.
If you want to try to keep your rear intact, get some dr's and don't launch the **** out of it. That's what I do. Both of my stock 10 bolts have held up to countless passes with dr's on them.
You have an auto. Different animal. My stock WS6 A4 would cut 1.9s.
Don't be afraid of your 10 bolt you can buy used ones for $150 easy. so, you hook decent on the street, but not at the track. Are you driving through the water, doing a burnout.
As far as the launch I always say start small and work your way up. You should be able to cut 2.0 60s leaving off idle with the right foot work. Once you can pull that off try a little more rpm, and once you get tires use the same technique but even more rpm.
My girlfriend cut a 2.054 60' in my CTSV, leaving at 1000rpms on 245/40/18 kdw2s. Thats a 3850lbs car with about 390 rwhp at that point in time. Though on the next pass she left at 2000, spun about 10ft, then hooked up, wheel hopped a few time and left pieces of the differential on the track. 10 bolts are tough in comparison to that.
Really try that and see what happens. Sometimes it takes getting used to, but it works.
Jon
Don't be afraid of your 10 bolt you can buy used ones for $150 easy. so, you hook decent on the street, but not at the track. Are you driving through the water, doing a burnout.
As far as the launch I always say start small and work your way up. You should be able to cut 2.0 60s leaving off idle with the right foot work. Once you can pull that off try a little more rpm, and once you get tires use the same technique but even more rpm.
My girlfriend cut a 2.054 60' in my CTSV, leaving at 1000rpms on 245/40/18 kdw2s. Thats a 3850lbs car with about 390 rwhp at that point in time. Though on the next pass she left at 2000, spun about 10ft, then hooked up, wheel hopped a few time and left pieces of the differential on the track. 10 bolts are tough in comparison to that.
Really try that and see what happens. Sometimes it takes getting used to, but it works.
Jon
listen ive broken 2 10 bolts and 2 12 bolts and moving on shortly to an S60 ! if you want to go to the strip something will break thats the price of going fast but you need to start with tires ! i went 10 passes on a dr till i snaped my rear ...... the big thing is tire pressure,smoke the tires a little a cold tire has no traction and practice..... try running 25 lbs in them
......after I buy some new tires 
i'm running 245/45/16 sumitomo's on my datsun with an ls1/t56. I took it to the track for the first time and cut a 1.98 short time. These tires have less than 800miles on them and were at full street pressure. My best launch was at 3500rpm and getting off the clutch pretty quick and into the throttle. Practice makes you better at launching IMO. I started off idle and was getting 2.1 then a little higher cut a 2.0 then my 1.98...
just like any other sport practice practice practice.
just like any other sport practice practice practice.
mickey thompson et street radials should be in your future.
I cut a 1.56 the first time out with the car. those tires just make it easy to cut good short times.
of course, there is most likely a 12 bolt in your future as well.
I cut a 1.56 the first time out with the car. those tires just make it easy to cut good short times.
of course, there is most likely a 12 bolt in your future as well.
you need an a4 or dr's if you really want to drop your 60's... but i think i have one of the best stock size street tires out there i tried a set of dr's (before i got the torque converter) and my 60' time went the wrong way... i get a 1.83-1.85 on my street tires with 3:23 gears and 32 psi... i'm also an a4 with a yank 3200... but i know my tires are good for a low 1.8 60' launching from idle...
have you tried launching from an idle yet? if your slowly pushing the gas down then you may be better off starting from idle...
have you tried launching from an idle yet? if your slowly pushing the gas down then you may be better off starting from idle...
Last edited by LTBANDIT; Aug 5, 2008 at 10:14 AM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: New Albany, Ohio
this is what i was told if you want better 60' times:
when you at the line the prestage light comes on. inch closer and stage light comes on. most people like myself stop there but if you inch a little closer the prestage light will go out. lauch from right there and your 60' times will reduce. The only downside is you overall time and mph will be a little bit slower.
Drag radials/slicks compared to street radials is night and day when launching
when you at the line the prestage light comes on. inch closer and stage light comes on. most people like myself stop there but if you inch a little closer the prestage light will go out. lauch from right there and your 60' times will reduce. The only downside is you overall time and mph will be a little bit slower.
Drag radials/slicks compared to street radials is night and day when launching
Edit: I didn't read your post. You are "DEEP staging" that HURTS everything but RT. You need to get advice from someone else. For best ET (which includes 60') and MPH, you need to barely trip the stage beams (aka 'shallow stage'). And it also helps with consistency because you more aware of where you are in the beams.
Last edited by JonCR96Z; Aug 5, 2008 at 12:42 PM.