one goal.....a wheelstand
control arms they install just like stock ones, with the 275 lb springs you don't need the spring cups, one thign I would get, is the thrust bearing to go between the wpring and the collars, that way you'll have a way easier time adjusting them for the desired ride height.
One other thing, if you're gonna remain at a modest to low power level that I have seen super stock cars run are what's called a pete z bar. it essentially turns the rear control arms into little ladder bars, and that will definitely make the car stand up.
One other thing, if you're gonna remain at a modest to low power level that I have seen super stock cars run are what's called a pete z bar. it essentially turns the rear control arms into little ladder bars, and that will definitely make the car stand up.
Thanks for the help,
Wayne
pointed in the right direction I've been around stock eliminator my whole life and know that these guys don't talk. I'm not trying to run 1.39 seconds under index. I just want to go to some races in the coming years. Yes, you are somewhat right about the parts not making the car, but let's face it; they spend $2500 for acid dip porting because it will pass inspection and it'll give them a tenth. I just need pointing in the right direction with large scale things to try to keep my money as low as possible and still run 11.50s.
Also, anybody who wants to run the 30x9s in a 1998 Z28 Camaro will have to cut approx 3/4" off of the front and back of the rear wheel well. As long as it appears stock and it's for the purpose of fitting slicks, it'll pass inspection. Any other help would be much obliged.
Thanks,
Wayne
Also- if any of you guys follow Stock Eliminator, my cousin Chris is 6th in the world. If you're out to any events in the Midwest, root for the red '74 Buick Appolo he and I built.
Also, anybody who wants to run the 30x9s in a 1998 Z28 Camaro will have to cut approx 3/4" off of the front and back of the rear wheel well. As long as it appears stock and it's for the purpose of fitting slicks, it'll pass inspection. Any other help would be much obliged.
Thanks,
Wayne
Also- if any of you guys follow Stock Eliminator, my cousin Chris is 6th in the world. If you're out to any events in the Midwest, root for the red '74 Buick Appolo he and I built.
There's another way to "port" the manafolds that works too, I know some circle track guys that deal with the same rule. They have the manafolds ported out conventional way, then use some type of sealant on the flanges and stick them in a tub of salt water for a month or 2. it gets rid of all the porting marks, and still gets the job done.
Do a search on here for peteZ bars, it essentially take sthe lower control arm and puts a 2nd bar that attaches to the top of the rear to the bar, which makes them like a little ladder bar. Rear can only go up and down that way, there's a few guys on here that I know of that run them, I think that for a low powered car they will work fine ( under 500 hp) but any more then that and you're asking to flip the car over.
If there is no rule about what rear housing you can run, I would probably have a fab 9 rear done and get the lightest rotating parts that you can, because for the tpe of racing you want to do every bit is gonna help in that department.
I would try to run a radial slick too if you can, less rotating drag. If you can't run a radial slick I would run the smallest tire you can and still get teh car to hook consistantly, simply because they're lighter.
I have done a few types of racing in my days, and one thing I can tell you about running in classes that are power limited, is that unsprung weight, and rotating weight are your enemy, get rid of as much as you can and you'll be much better off.
If you have to run stock spindles/a arms/k member which I think for the class you want to do you have to, there's some things that can be done to get the weight out of that.
my shop bought a car from jay billingsley that was a super stock car, a couple things that were done in that motor were pretty intresting, but that's stuff for PM.
Do a search on here for peteZ bars, it essentially take sthe lower control arm and puts a 2nd bar that attaches to the top of the rear to the bar, which makes them like a little ladder bar. Rear can only go up and down that way, there's a few guys on here that I know of that run them, I think that for a low powered car they will work fine ( under 500 hp) but any more then that and you're asking to flip the car over.
If there is no rule about what rear housing you can run, I would probably have a fab 9 rear done and get the lightest rotating parts that you can, because for the tpe of racing you want to do every bit is gonna help in that department.
I would try to run a radial slick too if you can, less rotating drag. If you can't run a radial slick I would run the smallest tire you can and still get teh car to hook consistantly, simply because they're lighter.
I have done a few types of racing in my days, and one thing I can tell you about running in classes that are power limited, is that unsprung weight, and rotating weight are your enemy, get rid of as much as you can and you'll be much better off.
If you have to run stock spindles/a arms/k member which I think for the class you want to do you have to, there's some things that can be done to get the weight out of that.
my shop bought a car from jay billingsley that was a super stock car, a couple things that were done in that motor were pretty intresting, but that's stuff for PM.
I used ramps before. I don't have to anymore though 
