16" or 17" DR's?
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16" or 17" DR's?
I am looking into a set of DR's to hook up at the track. I was wondering if I should go with 17" (275's) ones and put them on my stock rims or 16" ones and get a pair of take off rims (255's). Would the 16" ones be better due to more sidewall? I am also planning on removing the front sway bar. I had a lot of wheel spin last time and a 2.5 60'!
Any input would be appreciated.
Any input would be appreciated.
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I would lean towards the 16's just cause they are lighter and cheaper. Take offs can be had pretty cheap. The tires are cheaper. Plus they only last like 6 or 7,000 miles on the street. So you don't want to be drivin on them all the time if its ur DD. Unless your lookin at nittos they seem to last longer and have better street manners.
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I would lean towards the 16's just cause they are lighter and cheaper. Take offs can be had pretty cheap. The tires are cheaper. Plus they only last like 6 or 7,000 miles on the street. So you don't want to be drivin on them all the time if its ur DD. Unless your lookin at nittos they seem to last longer and have better street manners.
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Thanks for all the input guys...it sounds like the 16's are the way to go. My car is definately not a DD...I have put about 500 miles on it each of the last few years.
I know 15's would probably be best, but I don't want to hack up my brake calipers for clearance.
Now I'll just have to find some take off rims.
I know 15's would probably be best, but I don't want to hack up my brake calipers for clearance.
Now I'll just have to find some take off rims.
#13
If your going to buy some take off rims, Don't bother as the width of the wheel is not that also.
go with the new F body Street light, 15x10 7.5" of back space. No grinding needed at all on the rears.
if you go into the wheel section there are a few threads, along with Pictures.
go with the new F body Street light, 15x10 7.5" of back space. No grinding needed at all on the rears.
if you go into the wheel section there are a few threads, along with Pictures.
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15 inch rim and don't look back. Save yourself the headaches and go that route right away.
And if they're for track use only, don't screw around with the et tires, hell unless you have to run the radial for a class/rules I wouldnt' even do that, the et drag/full slick, just work... they have for years and that hasn't changed at all.
Radials can work, but if the suspension isn't right, you're gonna have to make it right. If the radial spins, it won't recover, bias ply slick, if it spins, it's only gonna for a foot or so then it's gonna grab, something the radial won't do.
For a starting point, bias ply full slick on a 15 inch rim, and go from there. You won't regret it.
And if they're for track use only, don't screw around with the et tires, hell unless you have to run the radial for a class/rules I wouldnt' even do that, the et drag/full slick, just work... they have for years and that hasn't changed at all.
Radials can work, but if the suspension isn't right, you're gonna have to make it right. If the radial spins, it won't recover, bias ply slick, if it spins, it's only gonna for a foot or so then it's gonna grab, something the radial won't do.
For a starting point, bias ply full slick on a 15 inch rim, and go from there. You won't regret it.