DRAG SLICK POLL - 9 SEC .CARS
#21
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Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
I agree with Z9s. Hit the tire as hard as possible. I run a 29.5 X 10.5 non W. We have the tire at 11.5 lbs. I launch on the 2step at 3800. The NOS come in instantly, the convertor flashes to 5500. The car has had a 60ft of 1.27 more than once.
The biggest problem is understanding the principle of the T/A. The T/A needs a level to down angle to plant the tire and keep it planted. I run 1 degree of pinion. I have the front shocks(AFCO) set at 1/2 turn on top and 7 on bottom.
Feel free to call me and I can help all I can with your setup.
The biggest problem is understanding the principle of the T/A. The T/A needs a level to down angle to plant the tire and keep it planted. I run 1 degree of pinion. I have the front shocks(AFCO) set at 1/2 turn on top and 7 on bottom.
Feel free to call me and I can help all I can with your setup.
#22
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Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
How about the new Stiff sidewall M/T 28x10.5 non w's that the NMRA SS/O guys run? I know some of them have had good luck with them. They have to be in the mid to low 1.20 range on the 60 but they do have ladder bars.
Just a suggestion..
Just a suggestion..
#23
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Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
Wade has been running the 28x10.5 non-W's and since he hit it harder with the spray, it hooked better! 1.32 60's. I myself have gone a 1.36 60' at 3400lbs on 28x10.5 non-W's, back in the day
#24
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
Excellant suggestions. Madman, I will take you up on your offer and call you on Monday. Based on these suggestions, I should leave the NOS and 4500 flash as-is, go to 1-degree T/A angle, and use MT 28x10.5-15 non-W (3055) tire. I've been launching on the T-brake at 3000.
#25
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Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
I'm a 6 speed guy.But I would try launching it HIGHER(like 4500)depending on where peak torque is.Don't keep launching it in the same place and blame the tires.(although it may BE the tires)
Experiment.
Hold the T-brake,put it to the wood,and let go.
Probably nave the N20 come on gradually over .5-1.0 second.
Analyzing videos of your launches my help.
You may have to step up the gear and go with a
30"tire...as wide as possible.
...Or just back-half it.
Experiment.
Hold the T-brake,put it to the wood,and let go.
Probably nave the N20 come on gradually over .5-1.0 second.
Analyzing videos of your launches my help.
You may have to step up the gear and go with a
30"tire...as wide as possible.
...Or just back-half it.
#27
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Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
I'm using a 1 5/16" chrome moly rear sway bar and the car does not twist like it did before.
#29
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
Ken,
I spoke with you about 9/16 heads studs, which I bought. Which MT tire are you using? 3055, 3055W, other.
Yes, it's a solid chrome moly rear sway bar.
I spoke with you about 9/16 heads studs, which I bought. Which MT tire are you using? 3055, 3055W, other.
Yes, it's a solid chrome moly rear sway bar.
#30
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
how where you able to get studs so fast
we run regular 28s no W's here I firgured with all the talk back and fourth we should work on our chassis with regular 28
our car works pretty good always in the low 1.30s
never gets loose mid track
good luck you
how fast have you gone so far and are you coming to the thunder race
we run regular 28s no W's here I firgured with all the talk back and fourth we should work on our chassis with regular 28
our car works pretty good always in the low 1.30s
never gets loose mid track
good luck you
how fast have you gone so far and are you coming to the thunder race
#31
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
*The 9/16 studs for a cast iron block were in stock.
*I admit I'm confused about tires, because it seems that the faster Mustangs and other cars run W's (if they can), and Wade runs non-Ws becaue he can't run Ws in his class up there.
*Ran 9.90 in Denver in June on NOS at a DA of 7500, and 10.21 recently on blower-only at a track DA of 6400 ft., but have laid-off NOS until the engine is rebuilt with stronger parts. We were losing pressure on cylinders 3/6 on both of these runs.
*Yes, I plan to be at the Southern Shootout.
*We're racing in Vegas on October 3/4, where the track DA should "only" be around 3,000. We'll spray it there.
*I admit I'm confused about tires, because it seems that the faster Mustangs and other cars run W's (if they can), and Wade runs non-Ws becaue he can't run Ws in his class up there.
*Ran 9.90 in Denver in June on NOS at a DA of 7500, and 10.21 recently on blower-only at a track DA of 6400 ft., but have laid-off NOS until the engine is rebuilt with stronger parts. We were losing pressure on cylinders 3/6 on both of these runs.
*Yes, I plan to be at the Southern Shootout.
*We're racing in Vegas on October 3/4, where the track DA should "only" be around 3,000. We'll spray it there.
#32
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
I know what stud you used keep me posted on head seal because I know those are different than what we use but for 1/10 the price
I would work on your car with out Ws
good luck
I would work on your car with out Ws
good luck
#33
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
I'm sensing you don't think these studs will work for us? Their recommended torque spec is 135 lbs., which is double what we used previously!?
Sorry for cluttering-up this thread with head stud issues. Perhaps the moderator will delete the stud-related posts for us, and we can work via PM?
Sorry for cluttering-up this thread with head stud issues. Perhaps the moderator will delete the stud-related posts for us, and we can work via PM?
#34
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
1.35's non- w 28x10.5 footbrake 2200 stall..track prep,chassis setup has alot to do with it...sometimes hitting the tire hard off the t-brake does stick the car on a not so good track ,but even so once the car is out it will haze the tires and usually skate around..thats when i think a 10.5w shines since more tire patch is on the ground..one day i try a set...I find myself having to "drive" the car here lately till the 1/8..
#35
Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
I honestly dont see how you guys are tucking 10.5Ws under the fender wells , i run Hoosier 29.5 X 10.5 and its all the tire i can get under there and i have even had to move LCAs in and trim a little of the spring perch , Fellas tell me the trick , is someone making a NOTCHED tire to clear the frame rails or what , you guys are more a man than me , cause i have ALL THE TIRE the car can take with out notching frame rails with a 10.5 non W .... any elaboration would be appreciated
#36
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Re: DRAG SLICKS - HELP!!
madman told me in a thread i started a while back that he uses tubular LCAs offset to the inside and uses 2.5" diameter rear springs and minitubs the inside sheetmetal