SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

I am by no means a chassis tuner, but I have spent too much time on this car for it to leave as poorly as it does. Average 60' is a 1.6

Have played with tire pressure until I'm blue in the face. Front shocks are at full loose. Dope comes on as soon as the clutch pedal moves a **** hair (150 shot). Installed a 2 step, leave at 7k, did not help.

I seriously think in my quest for free weight reduction I have gotten all the weight out of the rear and made the car very heavy towards the nose. Still has front stock seats, stock k member and a arms, and stock brakes. AC is gone ABS is gone, radio and all the speakers amp and wiring is gone. Head lights are gone, only the covers are in place. Bumper supports are gone.

Every time it trys to pull the nose up then it instantly comes down unloads and spins. See video at bottom.

I will be flat broke in the mod department here shortly. So how much weight do you guys think it will take to get this car leaving right?

I'm thinking hood first. VFN extended pin on. Maybe a k member if I can afford it. And relocate a full size battery to the rear (has lightweight battery up front right now).

Car has afcos all the way around, madman torque arm, lower control arms and relocation brackets in lowest hole, and Wolfe drag bar. Front shocks full loose, rear 6 clicks off tight on bottom 6 off loose on top.

Maybe I should find the center of gravity on the car as far as front to back goes? That should tell me something.

I'm just tired of fooling with this car and not seeing results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka-uEpsDWHg

Any suggestions?

z28berryhill

iTrader: (26)

i might be wrong but i didnt read that your front sway bar was off....ive read alot off people do this to help with launches..its like 40 lbs or saomthing

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

Yeah its gone too, forgot that one.

Forgot to mention the tires are 28x10.5x15s et drags on a 8 inch wide wheel. And cheap *** metric radials up front. There is some weight to be lost swapping those tires out.

z28berryhill

iTrader: (26)

wow man not sure i know a couple people with stock front suspension that car tires for like 10 feet wish i could help

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

"Car has afcos all the way around, madman torque arm, lower control arms and relocation brackets in lowest hole, and Wolfe drag bar. Front shocks full loose, rear 6 clicks off tight on bottom 6 off loose on top."
What are you doing w/ all the adjustments you have, besides tire pressure??
Are you keeping a log of the changes/et/speeds, etc??
Have you done anything w/ ft shock adjustment to help keep the ft end up?
I see 2 things in the vids...
1. Car does not leave straight.. goes left.
2. Sounds like lots of tire spin on the leave.
Do you have any logs of the runs?? Be interested in seeing the TPS position when you leave...
Tire pressures are?
Quality of track prep?
Spraying on the leave?
Daytime vids from the side, would help..

liveatstrip

iTrader: (7)

This is what I did to achieve transfer-
1. QA1 stocker shocks/springs
2. Comp Engineering 3 way rear shocks
3. Traction Bars
The front shocks helped more than anything, but I took off my entire AC unit, front sway bar, front bumper, horns, and misc. crap at the same time as the QA1 install. 60' picked up from 1.81 to 1.62, but the big difference was the transfer. It no longer spun.

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

i use to pull to the right but that was before i put a Spohn Pro-Series Rear Drag Sway Bar it put me straight ...i run my shocks @ 2 up front and i go 1.5's 60ft on a radial ...you have everything you need kinda scratching my head on this one

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

I agree with Old Geezer, need to log each run with all of the adjustments.

I the front looks like a pogo stick going up and down. Are your front shocks double adjustable?
If so, tighten up the compression to about 3/4 of toward full tight.
If single adjustable, try tighten them up couple click.
What springs are up front?
Need to leave a little softer, you have way to much tire spin.
8" rim is a little narrow for that tire, you may need to run a little less air in it to compensate for your rims width (maybe around 12.5 to 13.5 cold).
As far as weight mods goes, the K-member is one of the best weight removal for the buck.
What is you weight?
Keep on tweaking it and you will see some 1.4 or better.
Bob

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

it transfers fine... looks like you need less tire presure...and the rear shocks stiffer on compression..maybe a slick loser on extention...

also you need a swaybar or phb adjusted get the car leaving straight and it will do wonders!

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

Ok, let me try and answer all those questions.

No log of changes, I started one and got frustrated.

Front shocks are full tight on compression.

Looks to me like it tries to come up on the back tires and instantly falls forward unloading the rear causing the tire spin.?. I can feel it inside the car. It pulls up hard, very little spin, then unloads and spins. Like, launch bog spin. I cant tell if it's bogging but something makes the nose fall.

The video was same shock settings as above, tire pressure was 10 psi hot. It does the same at 13. I have tried to find the sweet spot in tire pressure between spin and bog and have had no luck.

Track prep isn't the best, but the good tracks don't let me run. That is being addressed in november.

I dunno what it means but I have been told my car pulls the rubber off the track on the starting line.

TPS position is 100% I can adjust rpm with 2 step

300lbs spring up front rears are stock with 1 coil removed and no isolater

I have more vids but they are all at night. Look about the same. Up down spin.

To me it seems like there is a certain point that needs to be reached (tires off the ground X inches high) to keep the car loaded, and I'm not getting there. All the fast stick cars carry the tires out a ways and set them down with out unloading.

Edit: watching my videos it does go left alot. So do I shorten the right side link?

SlickVert

iTrader: (5)

First, call Madman.

Try tightening up the front shock to 2 on rebound and loosen the compression to about 3/4 from loose (about 8 on a 12 way and 16 on a 24 way adjustable).
Try launching at a lower rpm until it hooks without bogging.
Bob

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

"TPS position is 100%" It may be, but does it stay at 100%?? My Buick had that problem. It left hard enuf, that the driver lost pedal pressure, when he was squashed into the soft seat.[Stock buckets].
"Dope comes on as soon as the clutch pedal moves a **** hair (150 shot). " Have you tried to delay the dope for a bit?
As for the tires. We did testing w/ MT engineers, and found that that tire is not happy at 10 psi. We got the best @14-16#
Tried the LC's in a higher location?
"Track prep isn't the best, but the good tracks don't let me run."
I'm guessing you don't have a bar in there, right?? If not, the "pretzel config" you are putting the chassis in, w/ 7K/dope on the drop, is one reason the tires are not "behaving"....
If you would video the tires, from the side, there are ways to look at that info, and get a good indication of where the IC is, right, or wrong...

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

It acts the same way on the motor. Just not as violent with the sideways action.

I found a good video of the tire I think. My friend that loads the videos for me is in Chicago right now though. Looks like it hits the tire pretty hard. I tried higher pressure and it feels like it blows the tires off at 14psi.

Good idea on the tps, went to check my logs and they are gone. I should know better than to share a laptop with anybody.

Have not tried to delay nitrous or lca's in a higher position. I keep forgetting to try that.

I think I'll just hang it up till I get the car back from Madman in November. I'll have him scale it and tell me what issues need to be addressed. I'm sure the car is all out of wack.

99bowtieZ

It looked like it really stepped out to the right a lot at launch and that will negate some of the weight transfer. Do you have an adjustable panhard bar? I would suggest working more on straightening up the launch then worrying about better weight transfer on a crooked launch.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Call Brian "The Madman" and LISTEN to what he tells you...it WILL work. I had to have my chassis guy call him while we did the scaling of my car. it may seem odd but it works!

I did exactly what Madman told me to do. The car leaves dead nuts stright and in the air every time!

It leaves hard enought to twist the ARP studs tq'd to 100ft lbs and snap the screw heads off the rim screws

SPEEDYws6

iTrader: (9)

He has the car right now making a frw changes that should help out.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Good to hear

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

you know, this isnt going to help, and its not like i launch hard compared to other people - but my car has never weight transfered. i have stock stocks up front and cheapo comp engineering 3 ways out back set at the stiffest possible (thus no weight transfer). my car on the m/t radials has gone 1.37 60' barely ever lifting the front wheels off the ground.

now it isnt the most consistent car in the world but it doesnt have the parts needed to be bracket consistent. but still it works and never transfers weight (400 passes on this car).

SUCK MY SS

iTrader: (14)

spherical rod ended front LCAs should definitely help with the vehicles weight transfer..

Demonicbird00

iTrader: (17)

personally, id take it to a knowledgable shop to have them scale and tune the sus on the car, thats whats being done to mine right now


i went 1.49s w/ a lowered dms springs w/ tokico shocks,lcas,relocation brackets, adj edelbrock TA and the front sway bar removed and thats on a 26" mt dr at 18psi

-brandon