pulls to left in wheel stand.........
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From: Tullahoma,Tn
pulls to left in wheel stand......... went to the track last night and tried out my new car I just built and it ran a 1.39 on the rear tires but it pulled to the left while coming down and had to let off. done the same thing 2 times. where do I start to fix this? I have adjustable LCA, PHB, body mount TA, and a Spoon drag bar. been racing for years but never had one this fast and had to worry about things like this. thanks in advance
Find someone with a sset of scales and call me. 225-673-3533
went to the track last night and tried out my new car I just built and it ran a 1.39 on the rear tires but it pulled to the left while coming down and had to let off. done the same thing 2 times. where do I start to fix this? I have adjustable LCA, PHB, body mount TA, and a Spoon drag bar. been racing for years but never had one this fast and had to worry about things like this. thanks in advance
I would start taking pre-load off the passenger side so it doesn't push the car to the left so much. Start there and of course the obvious stuff-equal shock settings, tire pressure etc.
Madman will have that thing launching strait like it is on rails. All you need to do is find a set of corner scales so he can help you distribute your weight in all of the right places.
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From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
I set my car up to the letter as Madman told me to. I even had to call and have him tell the Chassis guy WTF we were doing.
Car comes up and goes dead strait EVERY time. MAN that is a good feeling
Car comes up and goes dead strait EVERY time. MAN that is a good feeling
Well one thing I can say, is no ***** to the walls runs. The sway bar needs adjusting as well as with playing with shocks and tires. Get it weighed as well, that is a great tool as well.
Ive been working with a car running 1.41 60 foots, and it always left straight but got put on the bumper, so travel limiters went in and now it raises the wheel not too much off the line and still leaves straight.
If you have a Sphon drag bar, is it the one that has tie rods welded to the frame or is it a better then stock replacement that uses the stock mounting points?
Ive been working with a car running 1.41 60 foots, and it always left straight but got put on the bumper, so travel limiters went in and now it raises the wheel not too much off the line and still leaves straight.
If you have a Sphon drag bar, is it the one that has tie rods welded to the frame or is it a better then stock replacement that uses the stock mounting points?
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Well one thing I can say, is no ***** to the walls runs. The sway bar needs adjusting as well as with playing with shocks and tires. Get it weighed as well, that is a great tool as well.
Ive been working with a car running 1.41 60 foots, and it always left straight but got put on the bumper, so travel limiters went in and now it raises the wheel not too much off the line and still leaves straight.
If you have a Sphon drag bar, is it the one that has tie rods welded to the frame or is it a better then stock replacement that uses the stock mounting points?
Ive been working with a car running 1.41 60 foots, and it always left straight but got put on the bumper, so travel limiters went in and now it raises the wheel not too much off the line and still leaves straight.
If you have a Sphon drag bar, is it the one that has tie rods welded to the frame or is it a better then stock replacement that uses the stock mounting points?
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From: Tullahoma,Tn
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From: Tullahoma,Tn
Sounds like the rear is out of square.
We moved mine 1/8th inch and it went from almost hitting the christmas tree to dead strait.
Have someone heavy sit in the Ttop well to simulate the weight transfer then check the rear.... as the car plants the tire the rear can move because the PHB has one mount to the rear and one mount to the car.
We moved mine 1/8th inch and it went from almost hitting the christmas tree to dead strait.
Have someone heavy sit in the Ttop well to simulate the weight transfer then check the rear.... as the car plants the tire the rear can move because the PHB has one mount to the rear and one mount to the car.
Sounds like the rear is out of square.
We moved mine 1/8th inch and it went from almost hitting the christmas tree to dead strait.
Have someone heavy sit in the Ttop well to simulate the weight transfer then check the rear.... as the car plants the tire the rear can move because the PHB has one mount to the rear and one mount to the car.
We moved mine 1/8th inch and it went from almost hitting the christmas tree to dead strait.
Have someone heavy sit in the Ttop well to simulate the weight transfer then check the rear.... as the car plants the tire the rear can move because the PHB has one mount to the rear and one mount to the car.
i have the spohn bar and cut 1.23-1.27 60 foots.
I have the same problem occasionally, first make sure your tires are the same diameter, 2nd make sure the rear is square, 1/4 turn of the LCA can make a huge difference on which way the car goes. Same with the sway bar preload and corner weights, so can a bind or bad shock but the rear being square is the first thing to make sure is right.
But a lot of mine is getting the car staged straight, if the car is pointed left or right on the starting line it has little choice to go which way its pointed when the front wheels are in the air. Especially when you start getting in the lower 1.3s.
I have the same problem occasionally, first make sure your tires are the same diameter, 2nd make sure the rear is square, 1/4 turn of the LCA can make a huge difference on which way the car goes. Same with the sway bar preload and corner weights, so can a bind or bad shock but the rear being square is the first thing to make sure is right.
But a lot of mine is getting the car staged straight, if the car is pointed left or right on the starting line it has little choice to go which way its pointed when the front wheels are in the air. Especially when you start getting in the lower 1.3s.
Assuming you followed the Mad One's recommendation for scaling the car and it still goes left- get a four wheel alignment. (pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things.)
__________________
1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
I have done a 4 wheel alignment every time I have altered the geometry of my car (excluding pinion angle and tq arm settings). I have never had an issue with pulling left or right. It's cheap insurance considering the cost of wasting a track outing trying to get the car to leave somewhat straight.
Honestly things like rear end geometry should have already been done.
Every car is diffent, even though its a 4th gen body, N/A your running a pretty sick time, but making sure the body doesnt bias to the right and no longer sits even on the suspension is key.
From my exp, power, weight (even on the 4 corners), trans, track condition, tire combo and suspension will influence this.
Until the car leaves straight, it should be launched and letting off well before the 330.
I will be getting that Sphon peice as well, my car just picked up a while and def bias to the right.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; Sep 30, 2008 at 08:02 AM.
This is what mine did 2 weeks ago, 3720 race weight and making around 380-390 on a stick, BMR tq arm, LCA w/ relocation and pan hard rod, stock springs and shocks. I definitly will be bying shocks and sway bar next....
