WHICH K MEMBER AND A ARMS ARE YOU USING?
The A-arms were the real culprit. First the shock was sitting on the a-arm tube on the passenger side. Made a terrible noise so I installed spacers under the shock. Second, I had to buy a female Rod end and stud to get enough length to align properly. The a-arm was too short causing the problem. The Rod ends are junk and make noise. I have a pic of one that is scared after only 200 miles.
With the K member the motor mount bolts did not align. I'm also concerned about the strength of the bushing/bolt. The slots in the K member are much too wide for the factory bolts and the bushing supplied. With shift there is only .037 contact on bushing to K member. Unit loading on K member slot has to be very high when torqued. I just hope I never have to make a panic stop! You also have to buy new bolts to hold the K member to the frame. This wasn't a big deal but would have been nice to have instructions giving size and length so I wouldn't have had to determine myself.
And yes I called PA for help. I was told to send the a-arm back and they will make me another a-arm to factory length. Why didn't I get it to factory length the first time? Why does he need this one back to make one to factory length? I offered to pay for the new until he received the old back from me. He said he didn't know how much longer to make it without the old and wanted me to tell him how long to make it. Doesn't PA have engineering drawings to know what they sent and what to make a new one without having to send this one back? Who knows how long my car would have been down.
If anybody wants pics of my problems with this kit email me at larry98@ev1.net.
PA owes me a new a-arm, four decent quality rod ends and for another alignment!
I did save just under 39 pounds with the kit
I can't believe you didn't have at least some of my problems.


