lemons12

iTrader: (71)

should be mid to high 12s...


this is for anyone.. WHEN YOU PUT A CAM IN PUT A STALL IN WITH IT!!!!!

98-LS1

iTrader: (4)

Well aren't you just the know it all of the site. Explain why on the interstate when hitting passing gear the car doesn't pull like it should then. This puts it in the proper RPM range so even without a stall the car should make power in it's sweet spot. The only place I could see where a stall could make a difference is from a complete stop or slow roll.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

even from a roll the stall is going to put it in its rpm range.. when i kick my car, at any given speed it is never under 4300rpms..

if you would like to take a ride down here to winchester, i would gladly show you.. you arent that far from me..

cams do not operate to full potential without a stall.. mainly from a dig, but also from a roll..

i wasnt trying to be an ***.. i was trying to help.. you can see just about every thread on here where people ask if they need a stall with a cam, pretty much no matter what size cam everyone says get a stall...

blown03mustang

+1 get a stall, run it at the track. if it runs good then dont worry about the numbers.

and btw dont jugde an auto vs m6 by roll racing. the m6 always has the advantage b/c of less drivetrain loss. if your gonna race em, race em from a dig or at the track.

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

yea that motor def needs a compression test and a stall

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

what cam do you have? ive seen ls1's without longtubes trapping higher than that..

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like you need to get it diagnosed by someone that knows/tunes these cars.To me it sounds like a mass air meter or a couple cylinders not firing under load -yes,it would run smooth.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Hmm this thread definitely peaked my interest...my car put down 325rwhp/340tq on the same day less modded fbodies were making about that. They either had ls6/fast intakes or longtubes. None both. All made more than me regardless of being auto or manual.

I am worried my engine might have busted the compression rings on the pass side due to backfiring issues from non firing coils.

How could I tell if all cylinders are firing under load though? It runs smooth and you'd never know anything was wrong if you're like me and this is the fastest thing I've ridden in...much less driven. Until I saw the numbers I thought it felt great...but seeing stock cammed cars with minor bolt ons do better made me scratch my head.

Granted I have steel driveshaft, wide tires, and a 12 bolt, but damn...

EDIT: I have just discovered the MAF is seeing under 200 g/sec airflow at WOT with the filter on and about 240 g/sec without it and am being told this is not good at all. Can you explain what you mean about the MAF tables?

mystic98ls1

iTrader: (22)

Yea put a stall in it and loose power on the dyno!!! It may be quicker from a deadstop but the stall will take power from the wheels so slower from a roll. I would have someone else double check the tune regurdless of who tuned it. I have tuned header only cars thet put 360 to the tires.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

big stalls are not dyno queens. thats why my car only dynoed with 339/327. but it ran a 12.2@110 with those #s.

Flaring Afro

did you install the cam yourself? hope it didnt get switched on you or something. also +1 for compression test.

mystic98ls1

iTrader: (22)

Yea you may also check to see if the cam is degreed right or atleast in correct! hopefully not a link off or something

CAMAROZ28AQUINO

no worries man, my cammed camaro threw down like 289 rwp on a dynojet last summer with all supporting mods etc. Found out that one of the compressors on the dyno was not hooked up causing numbers to read extremely low, for instance a d1sc c5 z06 hit the dyno and dynod like 380rwp and then after the dyno was fixed it dynod 591 rwp....check to make sure the dyno was good!

PONTIAC SLP

iTrader: (3)

numbers not everything , we have two cars here , the first one pulled 460rwhp the second 427rwhp , both of them H/C but the first one with Fast 90 and 3.4 the second 3.7 without fast , the second one beat him 1 car length

180ls1

iTrader: (4)

old thread but here is a new idea. Who installed the cam? it it was not lined up you could be losing lots of power that way.

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

I don't see how you couldnt line up the dots.....but the car wouldnt even run right if they were not lined up, and he says it runs fine other than just being slow.


Sounds to me like maybe the tune needs another look. My buddies smaller cam and otherwise stock SS M6 used to pull a whole car on my bigger cammed/all supporting mods/3.73 TA (roll race). Ay the track he only trapped 108 and I was trapping 115-116, and my car only ran 12.60s while he was having a hard time hitting mid 13s.(both street tires). I got my car dyno tuned and now he won't race me, but he raced my friends 409RWHP GTO and smoked it too (roll race). Sometimes **** happens, my car was way off when I thought it was ok too

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I know for sure my cam is in correct
Compression is fine
MAF airflow is low but that's all I can find so I'm guessing the mail order tune is just killing me, I don't know much about it other than its running 91 octane with 29 degrees timing at WOT and not getting any knock retard

Flaring Afro

mail order tunes dont work well. thats like having a factory tune. every engine is different.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

not completly true...i made 340rwhp with bolt ons and a mail order...put in a small cam and made 380rwhp..all on mail order tuning in an a4 150,000 mile 98..the car the op is discussind has problems...with bolt ons and stock stall my car would anhilate a lid catback car....

HTX

iTrader: (1)

a good converter will be faster from a dead stop or roll. (as opposed to stok 4L60E converter)