A4 in WOT lockup = M6 dyno numbers ???
03-02-2009, 04:04 AM
#1
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A4 in WOT lockup = M6 dyno numbers ??? I am wondering if adding lockup in WOT (yes my converter is up for it, and yes i nave an aftermarket controller) will even out the A4/M6 dyno difference... most of teh additional loss in an auto in in the converter right?? so with a 9 inch converter and the tranny in lock, wouldnt i see higher dyno numbers than would otherwise be expected with an a4
hope the above makes sense.. and that its in the right forum...
comments wellcomed
hope the above makes sense.. and that its in the right forum...
comments wellcomed
03-02-2009, 11:06 AM
#3
I am wondering if adding lockup in WOT (yes my converter is up for it, and yes i nave an aftermarket controller) will even out the A4/M6 dyno difference... most of teh additional loss in an auto in in the converter right?? so with a 9 inch converter and the tranny in lock, wouldnt i see higher dyno numbers than would otherwise be expected with an a4
hope the above makes sense.. and that its in the right forum...
comments wellcomed
hope the above makes sense.. and that its in the right forum...
comments wellcomed
My AFR205/X4/90mm H/C setup made 460 on that dyno, same day, same tuner so I know the dyno wasnt reading high.
03-04-2009, 07:50 PM
#5
The numbers should be closer, but still won't match an M6. Autos have more parasitic losses through the trans.
My question is why would you want to do that?? Its not an accurate representation of the actual power you're going to be putting to the wheels on the street, because you aren't going to be driving around with the converter locked in every gear. That defeats the purpose of an aftermarket converter completely.
My question is why would you want to do that?? Its not an accurate representation of the actual power you're going to be putting to the wheels on the street, because you aren't going to be driving around with the converter locked in every gear. That defeats the purpose of an aftermarket converter completely.
03-04-2009, 07:56 PM
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The numbers should be closer, but still won't match an M6. Autos have more parasitic losses through the trans.
My question is why would you want to do that?? Its not an accurate representation of the actual power you're going to be putting to the wheels on the street, because you aren't going to be driving around with the converter locked in every gear. That defeats the purpose of an aftermarket converter completely.
My question is why would you want to do that?? Its not an accurate representation of the actual power you're going to be putting to the wheels on the street, because you aren't going to be driving around with the converter locked in every gear. That defeats the purpose of an aftermarket converter completely.
03-04-2009, 08:41 PM
#7
The numbers should be closer, but still won't match an M6. Autos have more parasitic losses through the trans.
My question is why would you want to do that?? Its not an accurate representation of the actual power you're going to be putting to the wheels on the street, because you aren't going to be driving around with the converter locked in every gear. That defeats the purpose of an aftermarket converter completely.
My question is why would you want to do that?? Its not an accurate representation of the actual power you're going to be putting to the wheels on the street, because you aren't going to be driving around with the converter locked in every gear. That defeats the purpose of an aftermarket converter completely.
It also helps diagnose that your engine is putting out something close to right. If you are making 390rwhp locked and you have a 427 with a 250 duration cam, you might want to lock it to make sure you're not making 425rwhp. Since the dyno is a tool, you want to use it to help diagnose any problems (valve spring harmonics at high RPM, etc.). This is important because you don't want the torque converter's torque multiplication adding another variable.
But, if your converter is stout enough, you may want to lock it up on the back 1/8 to put more power to the ground and ET and MPH better.
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03-04-2009, 09:04 PM
#8
My question is why would you want to do that?? Its not an accurate representation of the actual power you're going to be putting to the wheels on the street, because you aren't going to be driving around with the converter locked in every gear. That defeats the purpose of an aftermarket converter completely.
You can't "load" the motor with an unlocked stall, when you hit it it wings the motor to the flash point of the converter.
If you want to look at it from your point of view, you're not mashing the gas at 2000 rpm in 4th with a M6 on the street either, but that's how you dyno them. 4th gear, 1:1 for the most accurate reading. Dynoing in any other gear skews the results.
03-04-2009, 09:37 PM
#9
It's actually more accurate than unlocked because the converter isn't acting like a sponge, absorbing horsepower.
You can't "load" the motor with an unlocked stall, when you hit it it wings the motor to the flash point of the converter.
If you want to look at it from your point of view, you're not mashing the gas at 2000 rpm in 4th with a M6 on the street either, but that's how you dyno them. 4th gear, 1:1 for the most accurate reading. Dynoing in any other gear skews the results.
You can't "load" the motor with an unlocked stall, when you hit it it wings the motor to the flash point of the converter.
If you want to look at it from your point of view, you're not mashing the gas at 2000 rpm in 4th with a M6 on the street either, but that's how you dyno them. 4th gear, 1:1 for the most accurate reading. Dynoing in any other gear skews the results.
