Discouraged about Dyno Results
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Discouraged about Dyno Results About a year ago my best dyno was 393 rwhp 371 trqe, with a slightly restricted y pipe. Yesterday, I had dynoed again with an open y pipe and my best was 389 rwhp 369 trque. Is this normal. I was hoping to get up to 5-10 rwhp gain but did not. I understand about weather etc conditions. Everything was the same on car except new tires was at 35psi compared to 30 psi a year ago. Tuning was same Air/Fuel ration was between 13.1-13.5 across the board were as a year ago it was about 12.8-13.1 across the board. Any suggestions.
Tune up time? air filter dirty, new spark plugs needed?...and some cars dont gain that much with cutout because of a potent cat back. And weather as you said play a big role..
Looks ok to me. Some plp are putting a 1000$++ FAST setup and only sees about 5-10rwhp..so its not too bad for ya!
The cutout might be more efficient with a larger cam and better heads IMO.
Looks ok to me. Some plp are putting a 1000$++ FAST setup and only sees about 5-10rwhp..so its not too bad for ya!
The cutout might be more efficient with a larger cam and better heads IMO.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Tune up time? air filter dirty, new spark plugs needed?...and some cars dont gain that much with cutout because of a potent cat back. And weather as you said play a big role..
Looks ok to me. Some plp are putting a 1000$++ FAST setup and only sees about 5-10rwhp..so its not too bad for ya!
The cutout might be more efficient with a larger cam and better heads IMO.
Looks ok to me. Some plp are putting a 1000$++ FAST setup and only sees about 5-10rwhp..so its not too bad for ya!
The cutout might be more efficient with a larger cam and better heads IMO.
Your air/fuel ratio is too lean this time around. This is probably causing spark reduction due to knock sensors pulling timing. Get the A/F ratio back down to 12.9-13.0 max during WOT & you'll see the true results. Good-luck
Time for new plugs
Time for new plugs
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Cause I am using copper plus plugs. Now they have around 16000 miles on them.
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No. The new plugs was a separate statement resulting from your 16000 mile comment. New plugs will help to ensure good combustion.
You're lean condition can be from several things:
-dirty injectors
-vacuum leak
-dirty MAF
-addition of breathers on valve covers in conjunction with an intake connected to the crank case
-incorrectly scaled MAF sensor due to intake related modifications, ie; bigger throttle body, intake manifold, intake duct sizing type of modifications.
I'd start be cleaning the MAF sensors CAREFULLY w/ die-elictric cleaner or (I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip). Don't damage the resistor wires while cleaning them.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
No. The new plugs was a separate statement resulting from your 16000 mile comment. New plugs will help to ensure good combustion.
You're lean condition can be from several things:
-dirty injectors
-vacuum leak
-dirty MAF
-addition of breathers on valve covers in conjunction with an intake connected to the crank case
-incorrectly scaled MAF sensor due to intake related modifications, ie; bigger throttle body, intake manifold, intake duct sizing type of modifications.
I'd start be cleaning the MAF sensors CAREFULLY w/ die-elictric cleaner or (I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip). Don't damage the resistor wires while cleaning them.
You're lean condition can be from several things:
-dirty injectors
-vacuum leak
-dirty MAF
-addition of breathers on valve covers in conjunction with an intake connected to the crank case
-incorrectly scaled MAF sensor due to intake related modifications, ie; bigger throttle body, intake manifold, intake duct sizing type of modifications.
I'd start be cleaning the MAF sensors CAREFULLY w/ die-elictric cleaner or (I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip). Don't damage the resistor wires while cleaning them.
Yes, I do it @ least twice a year. Just be careful while cleaning. Since it hasn't been cleaned, I'd say that it's likely part of the problem.
Seafoam is for cleaning intakes & combustion chambers mainly. Don't put it in your gas, it can gunk up your fuel filter. Use a Techron fuel injector cleaner in a 1/4 tank of gas or have the injectors proffessionally cleaned @ the fuel rail. If you can find an injector cleaner fuel rail kit, you can buy a can of proffessional cleaner @ NAPA (I don't remember the name, but it's behind the counter in a blue can). You need the fittings in a kit in order to use this cleaner. So, don't buy it unless you have a kit. Sometimes the kits can be found on e-bay or maybe a Google search will find one. Anyway, a can or 2 of Techron in the tank (1 bottle per 1/4 of a tank) should be sufficient.
Your injectors should be replaced only if mod's require more fuel than the current injectors can produce or when on fails. Yours are fine with a cleaning.
Seafoam is for cleaning intakes & combustion chambers mainly. Don't put it in your gas, it can gunk up your fuel filter. Use a Techron fuel injector cleaner in a 1/4 tank of gas or have the injectors proffessionally cleaned @ the fuel rail. If you can find an injector cleaner fuel rail kit, you can buy a can of proffessional cleaner @ NAPA (I don't remember the name, but it's behind the counter in a blue can). You need the fittings in a kit in order to use this cleaner. So, don't buy it unless you have a kit. Sometimes the kits can be found on e-bay or maybe a Google search will find one. Anyway, a can or 2 of Techron in the tank (1 bottle per 1/4 of a tank) should be sufficient.
Your injectors should be replaced only if mod's require more fuel than the current injectors can produce or when on fails. Yours are fine with a cleaning.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
Thanks Guys I appreciate all responses!!!!!!! I am goin to try the maf 1st and then sparks. My goal was to aleast get 400 to the wheels with my current setup. Which is:
LS6 Intake
222/228/115 cam
1.8 Crane Gld Race RR
SLP LID K/N Filter
Pacesetter LT w/ catted Y into inch, then 3 inch LM Exhaust
stock 10 bolt, alum driveshaft etc
stock 241 heads
LS6 Intake
222/228/115 cam
1.8 Crane Gld Race RR
SLP LID K/N Filter
Pacesetter LT w/ catted Y into inch, then 3 inch LM Exhaust
stock 10 bolt, alum driveshaft etc
stock 241 heads
Those of whom have read & understand the thread realize that the discussion is about how to correct the lean condition of which is a potential for engine damage & is the likely reason for the lost power resulting from reduced timing due to engine knock.
This isn't kindergarten, most in this section understand the BS numbers that dynos can create in order to produce bogus marketing numbers. The dyno numbers being discussed have revealed a lean condition of which is being addressed.
Nobody's claiming that jacking off on the intake will add 5 RWHP here.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
No. The new plugs was a separate statement resulting from your 16000 mile comment. New plugs will help to ensure good combustion.
You're lean condition can be from several things:
-dirty injectors
-vacuum leak
-dirty MAF
-addition of breathers on valve covers in conjunction with an intake connected to the crank case
-incorrectly scaled MAF sensor due to intake related modifications, ie; bigger throttle body, intake manifold, intake duct sizing type of modifications.
I'd start be cleaning the MAF sensors CAREFULLY w/ die-elictric cleaner or (I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip). Don't damage the resistor wires while cleaning them.
You're lean condition can be from several things:
-dirty injectors
-vacuum leak
-dirty MAF
-addition of breathers on valve covers in conjunction with an intake connected to the crank case
-incorrectly scaled MAF sensor due to intake related modifications, ie; bigger throttle body, intake manifold, intake duct sizing type of modifications.
I'd start be cleaning the MAF sensors CAREFULLY w/ die-elictric cleaner or (I use rubbing alcohol on a Q-tip). Don't damage the resistor wires while cleaning them.
For normal driving, it will take a few days of driving & you probably won't notice it; maybe in throttle response from low RPM's. In regards to WOT power, it should be an immediate improvement unless dirty injectors are part of the problem. The MAF can now accurately measure the air entering the intake & add fuel accordingly. With a dirty MAF, the MAF sensor cannot measure the airflow accurately. So, more air enters the intake than is measured & the car runs lean as a result.
You should continue with your maintenance by cleaning the injectors (any method you choose is better than none), plugs & fuel filter.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 11
From: Port St. Lucie, Fl
For normal driving, it will take a few days of driving & you probably won't notice it; maybe in throttle response from low RPM's. In regards to WOT power, it should be an immediate improvement unless dirty injectors are part of the problem. The MAF can now accurately measure the air entering the intake & add fuel accordingly. With a dirty MAF, the MAF sensor cannot measure the airflow accurately. So, more air enters the intake than is measured & the car runs lean as a result.
You should continue with your maintenance by cleaning the injectors (any method you choose is better than none), plugs & fuel filter.
You should continue with your maintenance by cleaning the injectors (any method you choose is better than none), plugs & fuel filter.
