Aftermarket LSx Rockers and Valvetrain Stability... Dyno Results inside.
#41
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Did you read my post above? If you care about your cylinder head purchase, you will not use stock rockers.
#42
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Erik Koenig what would be the right spring set up and push rods to work with the as cast trick flow heads? if i go this way i want to know everything is set up right and i wont have to pull the heads in 6months to have new guides replaced in them. what rocker set up will work best with these heads stock or the YT 1.7s is these whats needs to be done to make every thing run right. like i said before I'm the average Joe that can turn wrenches and whats to be able to bolt on something that works and not have to worry about parts wearing super fast.
As Erik said, the PI stuff is very heavy, and takes a lot to control it. I dont use any of the newer Comp lobes as they only seem stable on pretty light valvetrains, LS6 intake valves, LS3 etc with good valvetrain parts, and most people cant seem to understand that buying the most badass spring doesnt always work with a F'ed up valvetrain, valves that are 30 grams heavier, stock 1.7 rockers with .680 lift, LSK lobes etc
Cam and everything needs to be thought out together. Thats why we do as cast heads/cam setups that make 450 with a LS6 intake, and have had $3400 cylinder heads with FAST manifolds that make 425.
#43
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Pharmd, are those cam numbers right? Looks like a much bigger cam than that by how long peak torque holds on, just top of it cut off. less valvetrain weight, smoother lobes, more seat pressure may help. Hyd valvetrains just throwing spring pressure on it is usually what I try to do last.
#44
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Theres is no right. There are right combinations of cam lobe, rocker arm, lifter, pushrod, valve, geometry, setup etc, but every part changing will change the final outcome
As Erik said, the PI stuff is very heavy, and takes a lot to control it. I dont use any of the newer Comp lobes as they only seem stable on pretty light valvetrains, LS6 intake valves, LS3 etc with good valvetrain parts, and most people cant seem to understand that buying the most badass spring doesnt always work with a F'ed up valvetrain, valves that are 30 grams heavier, stock 1.7 rockers with .680 lift, LSK lobes etc
Cam and everything needs to be thought out together. Thats why we do as cast heads/cam setups that make 450 with a LS6 intake, and have had $3400 cylinder heads with FAST manifolds that make 425.
As Erik said, the PI stuff is very heavy, and takes a lot to control it. I dont use any of the newer Comp lobes as they only seem stable on pretty light valvetrains, LS6 intake valves, LS3 etc with good valvetrain parts, and most people cant seem to understand that buying the most badass spring doesnt always work with a F'ed up valvetrain, valves that are 30 grams heavier, stock 1.7 rockers with .680 lift, LSK lobes etc
Cam and everything needs to be thought out together. Thats why we do as cast heads/cam setups that make 450 with a LS6 intake, and have had $3400 cylinder heads with FAST manifolds that make 425.
Shane
#45
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Did you read my post above? If you care about your cylinder head purchase, you will not use stock rockers.[/QUOTE]
Brian i did read your post thats why in one of my posted i stated where can i get a combo that will work with no problems, rather it be with or with out stock rockers. id rather use the YTs but i want everything to work the first time around. so if some of you guys can direct me to a good place to get this done please do.
Brian i did read your post thats why in one of my posted i stated where can i get a combo that will work with no problems, rather it be with or with out stock rockers. id rather use the YTs but i want everything to work the first time around. so if some of you guys can direct me to a good place to get this done please do.
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Brian i did read your post thats why in one of my posted i stated where can i get a combo that will work with no problems, rather it be with or with out stock rockers. id rather use the YTs but i want everything to work the first time around. so if some of you guys can direct me to a good place to get this done please do.
This thread is full of knowledgable vendors who sell what???!!!??!
HEADS,CAMS, Dyno Tunes, Performance Packages, etc
Wright down the number to Thunder Racing, SNL performance, Lingenfelter, LG Motorsports, Vengeance Racing, etc, etc.........call around and find a place that offers good customer service and is within your price range. Tell them what youd like to do and they will tell you what they have. Almost all of the vendors here put food on table for their families by building proven combo's.
final food for thought: "FAST, CHEAP, RELIABLE" -> you can only have two of the three
#47
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OK...as the guy who was in charge of the current pushrod hole change...and I spent MANY hours mocking up rockers and checking things...forgive me if I question what you are seeing.
The pushrod holes are ALL in the same location, 215/225/235/245 castings all start life as the same casting, the only difference is the CNC program cut into them. You should spend some time and personally check the latest castings yourself.
The pushrod holes are ALL in the same location, 215/225/235/245 castings all start life as the same casting, the only difference is the CNC program cut into them. You should spend some time and personally check the latest castings yourself.
The YT 1.8s of course we have to do some extra stuff for sure but a lot of heads can't fit 1.8s anyway. The Jesels are even worse and I would say the YT 1.7s are the best. On stock heads we can run 3/8ths usually with no work at all and on L92/LS3/LS7 we can run even larger.
#48
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Erik Koenig what would be the right spring set up and push rods to work with the as cast trick flow heads? if i go this way i want to know everything is set up right and i wont have to pull the heads in 6months to have new guides replaced in them. what rocker set up will work best with these heads stock or the YT 1.7s is these whats needs to be done to make every thing run right. like i said before I'm the average Joe that can turn wrenches and whats to be able to bolt on something that works and not have to worry about parts wearing super fast.
I think you might be able to change springs to something a lil stronger like the other stiffer TFS or the EHT PRC etc. I can't say much else. Maybe Brian can tell you what springs you have on those are or if you can set them up a lil tighter etc?
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as of right now i have no cam or heads or parts. what im asking is help to have a set up right, and work right right off the bat and not have to worrie about anything
Can't tell you that as I can't keep up with all these threads and I don't know exactly what parts you really have or how they are set up. You might just need a little more spring but again I am not setting this up and I wouldn't use probably any of the same parts.
I think you might be able to change springs to something a lil stronger like the other stiffer TFS or the EHT PRC etc. I can't say much else. Maybe Brian can tell you what springs you have on those are or if you can set them up a lil tighter etc?
I think you might be able to change springs to something a lil stronger like the other stiffer TFS or the EHT PRC etc. I can't say much else. Maybe Brian can tell you what springs you have on those are or if you can set them up a lil tighter etc?
#50
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Could I be so bold as to suggest that you start your own thread in the GenIII internal engine forum instead of posting up your individual questions in a thread for specific knowldege on valvetrain stability. At this point there have been over 1200 hits on this thread, and we didn't come into the dyno forum to read questions about someone needing help selecting parts. /rant off
I am on a quest to quiet the valvetrain in my LS1, and I appreciate all the hands-on knowledge from each of the engine builders who have posted here. I think it's time for me to step up my pushrod diameter and do some more measurements on my installed spring height.
I am on a quest to quiet the valvetrain in my LS1, and I appreciate all the hands-on knowledge from each of the engine builders who have posted here. I think it's time for me to step up my pushrod diameter and do some more measurements on my installed spring height.
#51
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Pharmd, are those cam numbers right? Looks like a much bigger cam than that by how long peak torque holds on, just top of it cut off. less valvetrain weight, smoother lobes, more seat pressure may help. Hyd valvetrains just throwing spring pressure on it is usually what I try to do last.
Erik was asking about the springs here are the specs> O.D. 1.306 inch; I.D. 0.676 inch; Max lift: 0.660 inch; Seat load: 153 lb/in @ 1.810 inch; Open load: 400 @ 1.150 inch; Rate: 379 lb/in; Coil bind: 1.100 inch
Options: YT's? More spring pressure? Different springs? Diff springs + more spring pressure? I'm putting the 3/8" PR back in soon either way. Is it a safe bet that I should go to the YT anyway due to guide wear issues, as this car will see some miles on the street...
Does anyone know if they make longer rocker arm bolts for these PI heads vs stock...we aren't getting very many threads down on the stock ones due to the height of these MAST pedestals.
Last edited by pharmd; 09-22-2010 at 09:28 PM.
#52
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The cams specs are on the money, they are right off the cam card. I was just hoping due to the high quality of the heads and the setup as a whole, that was how well the curve was going to look. It looks like both my curves have the peaks cut off on both hp and tq. IDK that it would be feasible to change the valves out for lighter ones, if that is even possible....I just need to fix the deal as it is...Who has suggestions on how to fix this thing???
Erik was asking about the springs here are the specs> O.D. 1.306 inch; I.D. 0.676 inch; Max lift: 0.660 inch; Seat load: 153 lb/in @ 1.810 inch; Open load: 400 @ 1.150 inch; Rate: 379 lb/in; Coil bind: 1.100 inch
Options: YT's? More spring pressure? Different springs? Diff springs + more spring pressure? I'm putting the 3/8" PR back in soon either way. Is it a safe bet that I should go to the YT anyway due to guide wear issues, as this car will see some miles on the street...
Does anyone know if they make longer rocker arm bolts for these PI heads vs stock...we aren't getting very many threads down on the stock ones due to the height of these MAST pedestals.
Erik was asking about the springs here are the specs> O.D. 1.306 inch; I.D. 0.676 inch; Max lift: 0.660 inch; Seat load: 153 lb/in @ 1.810 inch; Open load: 400 @ 1.150 inch; Rate: 379 lb/in; Coil bind: 1.100 inch
Options: YT's? More spring pressure? Different springs? Diff springs + more spring pressure? I'm putting the 3/8" PR back in soon either way. Is it a safe bet that I should go to the YT anyway due to guide wear issues, as this car will see some miles on the street...
Does anyone know if they make longer rocker arm bolts for these PI heads vs stock...we aren't getting very many threads down on the stock ones due to the height of these MAST pedestals.
Yes McMaster-Carr has 8mmX1.25 allen head bolts of different thread and shank lengths you can use. I think that spring is not quite enough for those valves maybe. The PRC EHT may be able to handle that valve as it is much stronger if you need it.
#55
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2007 LS2 engine, ported TEA 243s with PAC beehive springs, stock valves, stock rockers, Comp Cams pushrods sourced through TEA, EPS camshaft that has .595" lift on both lobes. Current pushrods were checked for proper geometry, shop said they were perfect. Reused the low mileage LS2 lifters, and replaced LS2 timing chain set.
Based on what I've read in this thread, would it be a fair assumption that because the valve lift is nearing .600 I should more closely consider YT stock ratio rocker arms? This is a street engine that I expect many happy miles from? Erik, Brian?
Thanks.
Based on what I've read in this thread, would it be a fair assumption that because the valve lift is nearing .600 I should more closely consider YT stock ratio rocker arms? This is a street engine that I expect many happy miles from? Erik, Brian?
Thanks.
#57
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Does any of the apply to l92 heads? I am not to knowledgeable about vavletrains but from what I understand (if I understood right that is) the l92 and ls3 heads are different when it comes to the rockers and springs.
#58
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2007 LS2 engine, ported TEA 243s with PAC beehive springs, stock valves, stock rockers, Comp Cams pushrods sourced through TEA, EPS camshaft that has .595" lift on both lobes. Current pushrods were checked for proper geometry, shop said they were perfect. Reused the low mileage LS2 lifters, and replaced LS2 timing chain set.
Based on what I've read in this thread, would it be a fair assumption that because the valve lift is nearing .600 I should more closely consider YT stock ratio rocker arms? This is a street engine that I expect many happy miles from? Erik, Brian?
Thanks.
Based on what I've read in this thread, would it be a fair assumption that because the valve lift is nearing .600 I should more closely consider YT stock ratio rocker arms? This is a street engine that I expect many happy miles from? Erik, Brian?
Thanks.
#59
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We have had some sets of TFS heads that don't allow for 3/8" pushrods. We normally use 11/32" in those instances.
Anything that applies to the LS1,2,6 heads is even more pronounced on the L92/LS3 head. Due to the large 2.165 intake valve and offset rocker arm all of the above issues are just magnified.
Stock rockers with trunion upgrade is by far the best approach on these engines.
Shane
Anything that applies to the LS1,2,6 heads is even more pronounced on the L92/LS3 head. Due to the large 2.165 intake valve and offset rocker arm all of the above issues are just magnified.
Stock rockers with trunion upgrade is by far the best approach on these engines.
Shane
#60
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3/8 pushrods rub on my tfs 225 heads.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...6.jpg&newest=1
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...6.jpg&newest=1
You can "scootch" the head all the way to the exhaust side which might give you a few thou when you bolt the heads down and then you can "scootch" the rocker pair towards to the intake side and get another .015 or so and sometimes this can get you by.
As has been said though we have probably installed a 100 sets of these things easy from other shops and customers and our own and they don''t generally fit with 3/8ths on intake. We use 11/32nds MAntons usually on that side.