228/230 Vs 240/248 Dyno Graph inside.. Is bigger always better???
12-13-2010, 08:30 AM
#22
Here is a similar type of comparison but on a 07 Z06 (427) Car came from Texas and the owner loved it,new owner hated it. Car would not drive smooth under 2500rpm no matter what we did with tuning.It idled at 1000rpm at 88kpa. Cam was a 248/258 and we reaplaced it with a 224 Cam.
Check out the gains down low with the smaller cam. With the smaller Cam the car drove like stock,even at 1000rpm in 1st gear.
Check out the gains down low with the smaller cam. With the smaller Cam the car drove like stock,even at 1000rpm in 1st gear.
12-13-2010, 08:46 AM
#23
I try to tell people all the time to not over cam their engines. Its not a matter of drive ablity to me, its a matter of usable power on the street. Most of the time the smaller cam will be faster at the track too unless the car is setup to use the larger cam. By setup to use a big cam I mean slipper clutch, loose torque converter, etc.
12-13-2010, 08:27 PM
#24
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I'm a big fan of the VRX4.. whenever I get some disposable income I'm going to pull the trigger on this cam. I'd like to go with some TFS 215's vs the AFR 205's.
12-13-2010, 08:53 PM
#25
I try to tell people all the time to not over cam their engines. Its not a matter of drive ablity to me, its a matter of usable power on the street. Most of the time the smaller cam will be faster at the track too unless the car is setup to use the larger cam. By setup to use a big cam I mean slipper clutch, loose torque converter, etc.
note- customer picked the cam due to listening to his friends. Tick did not pick it for him.
12-13-2010, 09:08 PM
#26
I try to tell people all the time to not over cam their engines. Its not a matter of drive ablity to me, its a matter of usable power on the street. Most of the time the smaller cam will be faster at the track too unless the car is setup to use the larger cam. By setup to use a big cam I mean slipper clutch, loose torque converter, etc.
12-13-2010, 09:11 PM
#27
Here is a similar type of comparison but on a 07 Z06 (427) Car came from Texas and the owner loved it,new owner hated it. Car would not drive smooth under 2500rpm no matter what we did with tuning.It idled at 1000rpm at 88kpa. Cam was a 248/258 and we reaplaced it with a 224 Cam.
Check out the gains down low with the smaller cam. With the smaller Cam the car drove like stock,even at 1000rpm in 1st gear.
Check out the gains down low with the smaller cam. With the smaller Cam the car drove like stock,even at 1000rpm in 1st gear.
You can easily make a high 230's intake/low 240's exhaust drive close to stock in one of those cars thanks to the engine size and computer speed.
12-13-2010, 10:40 PM
#30
Gee...maybe a cam closer to stock numbers would drive even better. That kind of maturing process will lead you to forced induction for sure. The great flowing big valve heads we have now make extreme cams less of an advantage than what many of us grew up with.
12-14-2010, 07:59 AM
#31
Yep, and it has a particular application. Right? Look how awesome it runs in Johnathans car. That doesn't mean you should throw it in the next car that comes along with a stock intake, 2800 Stall, and shorty headers!
Huh?
Huh?
12-14-2010, 09:17 AM
#32
I'm definitely on board with the small cam/midrange TQ idea, but why in the world would you under cam a 427ci engine with a 224 cam???
You can easily make a high 230's intake/low 240's exhaust drive close to stock in one of those cars thanks to the engine size and computer speed.
You can easily make a high 230's intake/low 240's exhaust drive close to stock in one of those cars thanks to the engine size and computer speed.
Time, research, and goals are all at the top of my list when getting a cam spec'd.
12-14-2010, 09:18 AM
#33
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Alvin helped Tick design the Polluter cam and works closely with them since he tunes most of the cars that Tick builds. I have the Polluter and i love it, nothing like a car that beats the ground when it idles.
12-14-2010, 10:36 AM
#35
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The vette simply did not have the right supporting mods. VRX4 is just better suited. Some poeple want that nasty lope and fail to understand that that is a matter of overlap and not only big durations. Poeple should research more and understand that for street, on LS1/6 about 9* overlap is great and mean.
12-14-2010, 11:26 AM
#36
Great thread -- precisely why I went with a 228/230 cam as well. I think the graph's really help tell the tale! I think most would like the option that produces greater power in 80% of the band vs. the one that produces slightly higher peak numbers!
12-14-2010, 06:01 PM
#37
I love those smaller cams! And btw, too much camshaft is something that has always happened (30 years ago that I can remember) and always will. Back then it was what the latest Hot Rod magazine said was 'the cam' to run. Now of course we have all the internet experts!
Most of 'em have made their mind up and you can't tell them any different, YOU HAVE TO SHOW THEM!
Most of 'em have made their mind up and you can't tell them any different, YOU HAVE TO SHOW THEM!
12-14-2010, 11:46 PM
#39
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^considering you will be doing my car in a few weeks and this thread is discussion on cam size, the afr 205 59 cc .040 gasket with a g5x3 112lsa (w/ fast 102 combo) seems like a awesome combo that doesn't seem to give up too much down low when packed with 4.10's in an m6. But seeing threads like these over the past few months kind of puts that second thought in the back of your head...as far as going a hair smaller.
12-16-2010, 01:02 AM
#40
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This is a great test and proves a good point. I have been choosing cams for people for years and often have been questioned on them being too small. There is a place for big cams, but often not in the place commonly used. If I can set up a car/truck with a cam and pick up 30RWHP with excellent drivability, why go way bigger to get a 40RWHP gain and have shitty drivability. The 10RWHP gain should be found elsewhere such as a better intake, bigger headers, etc. Stock heads, intake, compression, etc, just aren't fans of cams big enough to have their own name.
