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Finally found my dyno sheet, opinions please?

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Old 09-24-2011, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Thanks, I will order the tool then.

I don't know of any good machine shops in the area and at this time driving back and forth to Texarkana or Tulsa to mess with springs isn't feasible, especially since I'm just going to change the heads and start over anyway.

Using stock thickness Felpros and 91 octane would .020" mill be good or should I go less to be safe? I will be tuning myself using a wideband so some room for error would be a plus.
That depends on if you plan to retard the cam. If you do, we can do some DCR calculations and give you a good idea of what is possible.

Shane
Old 09-26-2011, 09:42 AM
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I would prefer to pick up a timing set and retard it 2*. If the new heads/valvesprings are going to let the power carry any past peak it might not be as big a deal to me. I like shifting where I have been because it allows me to cross the 1/8th mile traps at the very top of 2nd instead of shifting to 3rd.

But that could also change with the extra power too I would guess.
Old 10-01-2011, 11:50 AM
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Well went back to the track. Car is down 2-3mph in the same DA so the top end is getting worse. New best 60ft of 1.73 and new best 1/8th time of 7.77, but by the time I got to the 1/4 I was down to 12.27@108mph. Pathetic.

On the way home got a highway run with a friends 2011 5.0 which I usually run door to door with from a roll, but he pulled 2.5 cars on me. He said he could hear the car breaking up (hard to tell inside due to the dumps and resonance).

Going to order shims and a tool ASAP. Might go ahead and try to shim the current ones to hold over until the new heads at the end of this month.

Really don't like the car not running well.
Old 10-01-2011, 12:04 PM
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New springs and cam. The valvetrain needs to be completely redone. Reverse splits don't work with most LS1 builds.
Old 10-01-2011, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Well went back to the track. Car is down 2-3mph in the same DA so the top end is getting worse. New best 60ft of 1.73 and new best 1/8th time of 7.77, but by the time I got to the 1/4 I was down to 12.27@108mph. Pathetic.

On the way home got a highway run with a friends 2011 5.0 which I usually run door to door with from a roll, but he pulled 2.5 cars on me. He said he could hear the car breaking up (hard to tell inside due to the dumps and resonance).

Going to order shims and a tool ASAP. Might go ahead and try to shim the current ones to hold over until the new heads at the end of this month.

Really don't like the car not running well.
I would really suggest to quit beating on the car until you get things sorted out...that being said just put the good springs on it now! You can always tranfer them to the new heads later. Seems more logical then shimming weak springs, to break one, drop a valve, and cost yourself a **** load mor cash in the end!
Old 10-03-2011, 08:53 AM
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I'm going to invest the money I would be spending on an adjustable timing set to pick up a different cam. After selling mine I should break even and have something better suited to my combo.

My current cam would be excellent in a truck I would think due to the low end grunt and 5800rpm peak.

Talked to my friend who ports heads and he said he can help get the rough cuts made in the heads shortly and I can go back over them with cartridges to smooth them out and blend everything. I can also polish exhaust ports and and chambers. Then send them out for milling and a valve job.

Ported heads, new springs, and new cam (traditional split to better utilize the ported 799s and Fast intake) should wake it up nicely once I get some injectors and get the tune back in line.




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