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Auto TRex dyno. Low numbers?

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Old 07-16-2012, 11:01 AM
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Default Auto TRex dyno. Low numbers?

I posted this in the wrong section and don't know how to move it so im posting it again here
Before I say anything I don't care what the car dyno's I just want to make sure I'm not leaving anything on the table. Car is a 98 z28. Mods are as followed
02 ws6 shortblock
Trex camshaft
853 heads
Ls6 intake with slp throttle body
Circle d 4000 converter
4.10 gear
1 3/4 headers with 3in y pipe with what looks to be 2.25 catback with hooker muffler
E85 tune
The car does have 3 degrees of timing pulled for nitrous
It has ran a best of 11.98 at 112 with a 1.67 60 foot but is consistent at 12.0 at 111 with a 1.64. This was with the old 3.73 gears. The car made 359/351 this weekend with the converter unlocked on a dyno jet. I've always thought the car trapped low speeds. Do the dyno numbers sound low for my setup?
Old 07-16-2012, 11:14 AM
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The car weighs 3420 with me in it
Old 07-16-2012, 02:09 PM
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If your catback is 2 1/4" then your ckocking the life out of that cam! You desperately need a better exhaust system!
Old 07-16-2012, 02:13 PM
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I knew this was an issue when I first bought the car. Any ideas on what the car would gain ET wise if I were to take the catback completely off?
Old 07-16-2012, 02:16 PM
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very small exhaust pipe diameter, try 3" or 2.5" duals ... also you're running 4.10 gears, that hides power on the dyno aswell. Being A4, you'll typically put down lower #'s than M6 cars.. you also said you have 3 degrees of timing pulled.

Those are quite a few things to consider before thinking you have low dyno #'s forsure. besides, i wouldnt be to worried anyways since every dyno reads different and is only a tool to use..
Old 07-16-2012, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bestlude
very small exhaust pipe diameter, try 3" or 2.5" duals ... also you're running 4.10 gears, that hides power on the dyno aswell. Being A4, you'll typically put down lower #'s than M6 cars.. you also said you have 3 degrees of timing pulled.

Those are quite a few things to consider before thinking you have low dyno #'s forsure. besides, i wouldnt be to worried anyways since every dyno reads different and is only a tool to use..
Plus on top of all that you have a 4000 stall that's a hp killer and it was unlocked.
Old 07-16-2012, 03:09 PM
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I'll put it this way, I had 2.25" duals and they were costing me over 1.5mph in the 1/8th.

Single 2.25" on a cammed car could easily be over 20hp IMO.
Old 07-16-2012, 03:34 PM
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i have 1 3/4 headers into a 3 inch y into a single 3 1/2 inch pipe with a 3 1/2 cutout.. picked up 21 hp cutout open vs. through the maganflow muffler with an unlocked automatic
Old 07-16-2012, 03:49 PM
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If you want to run a "Donkey Dick", then make sure you have the supporting mods like better exhaust and heads. Kind of like having a bad *** surround sound system and HD on a 15 inch TV.
Old 07-16-2012, 04:45 PM
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As I said above I bought the car the way it sits
Old 07-16-2012, 05:51 PM
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Catback costing you 50+hp, no doubt in my mind.
Old 07-16-2012, 06:56 PM
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is it the factory i/ota pipe? if so i believe it is closer to 2.75".

regardless; the catback is costing you a lot of hp. i'd expect a car with that weight & setup to run mid-low 11s @ 118ish da dependent of course...
Old 07-16-2012, 08:13 PM
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I'm not sure if it's factory or not. It's pieced together though. Im certain it's not 3 inch that's for sure. The DA for the runs was around 2000-2200. I keep check a lot when I'm at the track. Sounds like I need to look into some cutouts. Thanks for the input. I'm slowing changing things on the car. Also I'm running a 27 inch tire. Switching to a 26 would be benefitial I think as well
Old 07-16-2012, 10:42 PM
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I would put in a cut-out after your y-pipe and let her rip!
Old 07-17-2012, 08:18 AM
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Yep that's what I'm gonna do. Thanks guys
Old 07-17-2012, 08:50 AM
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You will gain a good bit of performance going with a 3cam inch x pipe/duals, my ms4 car pulled so much better with the duals over the y pipe, also you have a max effort cam, any lil upgrades you can make will only help, fast intake/chris1313/17/8th headers/ also did you spray with those times? Are you running timing pulled with no spray?
Old 07-17-2012, 09:55 AM
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These time are with 3 degrees of timing pulled for nitrous. On a 150 shot the car has gone 10.90 at 123 with a 1.54. My tuner told me the power loss from 3 degrees would be minimal (5-10hp) so it would be more of a hassle to switch it back and forth for when I'm not spraying. So we left the timing pulled
Old 07-17-2012, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by PBMGOAT04
These time are with 3 degrees of timing pulled for nitrous. On a 150 shot the car has gone 10.90 at 123 with a 1.54. My tuner told me the power loss from 3 degrees would be minimal (5-10hp) so it would be more of a hassle to switch it back and forth for when I'm not spraying. So we left the timing pulled
Everyone has you on the right track with that exhaust choking the car down, but, I must comment on your comment I put in bold..

When you get to a certain point in the game, it can cost around 500-1k to try and squeeze out another 10rwhp from a setup. You have some power setting there FOR FREE, in the tune. It's well worth the time to re-flash the pcm to the file that's optimum for your N/A runs.
Old 07-17-2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by PBMGOAT04
These time are with 3 degrees of timing pulled for nitrous. On a 150 shot the car has gone 10.90 at 123 with a 1.54. My tuner told me the power loss from 3 degrees would be minimal (5-10hp) so it would be more of a hassle to switch it back and forth for when I'm not spraying. So we left the timing pulled
Put the tune at the max N/A tune and get you a timing box so you pull the timing you want to pull when you want to pull it. Instead of running around with a nitrous tune on the car all the time.
Old 07-17-2012, 04:34 PM
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My buddy just gained 36rwhp from going from unlocked to locked on the dyno last night. We just wanted to see what the difference is. Same converter as you.


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