walker94z28

Just looking for opinions on what I want to acomplish with my car. It currently has a 402 with TFS 235 and a Texas giant cam. 1 3/4 headers and running on a tsp mailed tune due to no good tuners here. I have put a glide in with a 8 inch verter so the 60's are down a lil on motor and lots better on nitrous. My best 1/8 n.a is 6.61@104 on motor and 6.05@112 with a 1.32 60. I have never dunked car but it weighs 3328. I have made a full 1/4 pass and it went 10.59@129 with the glide and I hit it with my 150 dry and went 9.70@120 due to hitting rev limiter at 1000ft and killing n20. What I want is like 6.20 or so n/a. I plan on using my 235's on new build. What is best ci to build to get there. And I would like to stay aluminum. Thanks.

Bout'ItZ28

iTrader: (19)

work with what u have. first thing to get rid of are those headers and step up to 2". is this a n/a car or a nitrous car. seems as if you are trying to to have the best of both worlds and that aint gonna work. if nitrous converter needs to be 9.5-10", cam change, rear gear change, real tune.

you wont pick up much keeping the same heads and getting a little bigger motor. wont be worth the money or the hassle. running big bore heads on a big bore motor is where you will see gain if you have a suitable intake manifold.

walker94z28

I understand, but the TFS 235 are recommended for larger bore engines. And my verter is a 8 inch but it works well on nitrous as I have a 5177 baby dry kit and it goes from 1.48 60 on motor to 1.32 and mph gains 10 in 1/8th. I understand the headers part for sure. I need a tune I agree and a 7300 limiter and it probably would go 9.50's

quik01ss

iTrader: (24)

ths 235s are fine on that motor. imo if you were to do a motor id go 427 or larger with a big ported ls7 head thats the only way your going to make a significant amount more power then what u have now but it comes down to how much $$$$ u wanna spend

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Just curious, where is the car making peak tq on motor, and where is the converter flashing to?

You and I seem to be very similar as far as ET and mph. I am going a few changes to mine, but shooting for 6.3x and 9.9x na. Then the 2 stage n20 will just be a bonus. Even though I have the unit, I am making it more more of a motor deal.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

motor is fine. I would rethink the top end. higher compression,cam change, carb style intake will put you into the 9's on motor.

LSxPwrDZ

iTrader: (4)

Heads are def fine and capable. Get the compression up and ditch the FAST92 for either a FAST102 or step up to a Holley Tunnel or Pro Flo intake. Def change that cam... those poor TSP Giant cam's leave ALOT to be desired on such a setup. I would personally get with Brian Tooley on specing a few parts for your current engine. He isn't far away from you up in KY either!

Most of all get a tune! There is probably quite a bit left on the table in the tune on a setup like yours.

walker94z28

Thanks everyone so much for the info and input. I haven't dynod yet but mr short I will be contacting him for sure. I think I will do a cam swap for sure in the winter and tune. My second question is this tho, I had to take engine out about 2 mo ago and the pistons on left side have slightly been contacting the bottom side of head where it is flat and close to cylinder. The pistons are flat top -2cc, so there sit no room to shave heads for more compression is there ?

LSxPwrDZ

iTrader: (4)

If the piston is contacting the cylinder head then you might have some piston to wall clearance issues... however the quench is mostly determined by block deck height, head gasket, piston compression height, rod length and stroke. Milling the heads will not put them any closer to the piston using the same gasket, it just shrinks the chamber and moves the valves closer to the piston but the quench pad of the cylinder head will stay in it's current position in relation to the piston. Hope that made sense.