Sunset01

Thanks for the info; I think I'm beggining to get it. & I think it did stall a bit higher than advertised, but that's just a guess.

I paid 450. Can you tell me a little more about what the difference between a 'stock style' converter and 'true aftermarket' converter is ?

Thanks Shawn,

Dean

foff667

iTrader: (2)

didnt notice you were in jersey...who did your tuning? We should meet up at the track soon

Sunset01

I do all the wrenching and the tuning myself. (except the trans build out of the car) The dyno was in Rockaway, Bruce's Speed Shop. Bruce had us spend an hour while we made 175hp until he realized he was in the motorcycle program. He said it was the only time he ever made that mistake; my good fortune.

DestroyerSS and I are planning to be hitting Island on Friday nights. I'm hoping maybe 3wks from today, if my torque converter swap and redyno get completed in that timeframe.

foff667

iTrader: (2)

bruce's speed shop huh..never heard of them hehe...where were you when i was doing my heads/cam swap i was at island last friday actually but not really fond of that track besides the fact that its another 20-30 miles each way to get there for me than atco or etown...one way or the other im sure we'll meet up at some point.

lata
Bill

JS

iTrader: (4)

Sunset that tune is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY lean.
U better richen that sucker up,on the street/track its gonna shoot up to 14.0


JS

Sunset01

It's not. The reading in the graph is the tailpipe sniffer after cats... and perhaps with a little exahust leak. On the street after the tune, I'm reading 11.5 AF with my wideband/innovate. As I've stated, I'm convinced it made the most power THIS WAY rich beacuse running too much timing for my combo 29/29.5. I will be retuning on the dyno after converter fixed and will try to tune at the track as well.

Sunset01

Ok, on the converter- Midwest uses a stock style front cover and clutch- the clutch for a later ls1 will be carbon fiber due to these cars being PWM lockup style and will handle the power. I have heard of a number of people locking their Midwests under power with no issues. The rest of the parts- pump/turbine are 245mm. They will likely change both my stator and impeller/pump to a different combo.

JS

iTrader: (4)

Gotcha Sunset..
Funny how my buddies WB and the tailpipe WB are within .03MV?

Be careful brother.....
Your dynoing very impressive for a catted non headed A4..

destroyerSS

iTrader: (2)

What size converter does Midwest say you have? because when you run a higher stall in a larger converter it will not be as efficent as a smaller diameter converter with the same stall! Also when you run a smaller converter you take off a little weight and add durabillity. I would say you should run a 10-10.5 inch converter in your car with your mods

Sunset01

I currently have 245mm and will stay that way after their changes, which equals 9.65". The lockup clutch and front cover are stock size... but the pump/impeller, stator and turbine are all the smaller size. I have heard, as you say, that modifying a stock full diameter parts is inefficient. You can see the midwest, as the case steps down from the lockup clutch area to the rest of the converter at the 245mm size. For whatever reason, the impeller/stator combination jusn't wasn't cutting it for my power level. Dennis at Midwest says they will change one or both of those parts. Thanks for the info and advice Shawn.

destroyerSS

iTrader: (2)

Now we just have to get our cars back together and hit the track