Mods are in the sig..



Best run was 430.7 RWHP and 383.5 RWTQ, not bad for an A4 in this neck of the woods.



This was with the TC locked and cut out open, unlocked was 420 RWHP/395 RWTQ. The AFR was 12.9 –13.0 with no KR and the runs were on 91 octane.



Link to the dyno graphs are here: http://www.geocities.com/danwade@pacbell.net/DanZ28.htmlThe overlay shows my old numbers with the TR230 cam and that being the only difference.



Now, about the N20 run, I’m open for suggestions on that run. This was with 150 HP jets on a TNT wet system, bottle full running 1100 PSI. Something very strange here, only thing different is the window switch I now have from my old set up. I’m only getting 100 RWHP then it hits a wall and just spikes (25 HP spikes) the whole run. AFR started at 12.0 and dropped to 10.0 by the end of the run. I ran out of time so I only got the one N20 run…



Nick, still gonna need some pulls bro!!



Dan

 

very nice #'s congrats

 

thats pretty nice!

 

Congrats on the #'s!!!

 

You runnin a FPSS with the nitrous? That's the only thing I can think that would cause that. That's just plain weird looking.

 

Congrats Dan

It seems our #`s are always very close.

 

Nice Numbers

 

was the 230 run unlocked?

 

I bet the smog ******** will love that!!!

And I call dibbs on Nick this Saturday

 

Thanks guys!

itchygomey98, I have an FPSS, but I had it bypassed already, it's never worked right. I do have a Walbro 255 in tank pump, fuel pressure runs around 63 psi.

offaxis, I gotta try an keep up bro

jrp, the 230 was locked as well.

Ferocity02, I'm gonna try to hook up some time this week with Nick if possible. I'm trying to make it out to Grudge night on Sat.

Dan

 

you sure your not blowing through the poor ss4000 with all those mods? or do you hav the e series nitrous verter?

anyways i've run nitrous on another car before and when i dipped below 11.5:1 i'd get that wavey feeling, do you feel it on the road? i had to run 11:1 cause it was a blown 4banger and the 84 shot set to 10:1 would feel really wavey, leaned her back out to 11.5:1 and went f'ing crazy.


oh yeah BADASS #'s represent some A4 action i'd liket see the slips man. hows the idle and cold start? What about low rpm idle lockup is it pretty smooth?

 

I suppose thats possible but the SS4000 should handle it. The old motor I was running an 11.0 AFR with tthe 150 shot and had a pretty smooth graph. I'm wondering if something is up with the Window switch, bad tach signal or something.

I should be hitting the strip this Sat if I get the issues ironed out by then. The idle is pretty good now and the cold start is a bit rough but doesn't stall, just in reverse sometimes. I adjusted the lock up points higher up or it would buck on me with these 3.23 gears at low RPM's..

Dan

 

Yes, I wanna go to Grudge Night too, not to race, I need new tires first. I've been waiting for Nick to finish the dyno for about 5 weeks now. Desperetly need a tune. Maybe I'll see you at Sac Raceway on Saturday!

 

I have seen two cars on juice with graphs similair to that. One was Vinces...he was about 425 rwhp on motor and then sprayed a 150 shot. We tired EVERYTHING. It ended up being the the tensioner was so worn out that the belt was slipping. Not sure if it was just the slippage alone or if it was affecting the ignition with the alternator slipping momentarily. He bought the Katech belt tensioner...end of problem. I recently did the same. Do you have black dust in the area of your belts?

Other things...go ahead and gap the plugs VERY tight...like .026...just for troubleshooting. If it stops completely...open them up a bit maybe .032 or .034 as long as it doesnt reappear.

Double check all grounds.

What did Af look like. Did it follow the surging?

You can hook up some test lights to each noid while you test. When the noids are getting power the lights will be on so you can monitor them. Be sure they are steady on....That will illiminate suspected window switch problems.

 

Agreed, it could be that your A/F is off and the `puter is pulling Spark/gas etc. ....Could be you have a solenoid not fully opening.... could be you have a kinked or partially blocked feed line....could be the guy operating the dyno was huffing nitrous..

 

I checked the noids a couple days ago, everything seems good there.

I find it kind of odd that a slipping belt could cause this, even with no belt at all, the battery would have enough juice to run spark for quite some time, but maybe it slipping alone was causing the problem. But if that fixed his, I will definately look into that. The plug gap is a real good point as mine are set to .045 right now, forgot to regap them. I did run a 150 shot before on the old motor with the 0.45 gapped plugs, but it had about 60 RWHP less.

The AF started at 12.0 and gradually dropped down to 10.0 by the end of the run. The timing was solid at 30 degree's for the whole run.

Thanks for the good idea's guys, this all helps

Dan

 

Yeah...do the plugs first.

 

30 degress of timing on spray? Be careful of those head gaskets.

 

Yeah, hopefully those .043" cometic gaskets and ARP studs will handle it

Dan

 

no no, add some race gas Dan! call me tommorrow man, lets talk.