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98 Trans am Base Dyno tune

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Old Apr 22, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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Default 98 Trans am Base Dyno tune

Hey guys, just looking for some opinions. Just got my base numbers, no tuning was done. Bolted on BBK Headers Ory and a electric cut out with the stock muffler. These were my results...
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 07:11 AM
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Looks good to me. No lid or anything on intake side?
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
Looks good to me. No lid or anything on intake side?
I have the sun coast creation Raptor hood and intake Box to make it a full ram air. Stock LS1 intake manifold Just Headers ORY AND a CUTOUT. I didn't expect those numbers.. I have 241 heads waiting to be ported and a Comp Cam to go in. Still looking for a cheap LS6 intake . I thought the AFR was lean But the tuner said it wasn't bad, am I still safe. Any opinions ?
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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Good number, AF is pretty close to the edge. If it were me I would dial it back a bit.
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Orange Juice
Good number, AF is pretty close to the edge. If it were me I would dial it back a bit.
I felt it was a little lean for my liking, its not my Daily but I do drive her often. I have HP tuners, I would just turn down the PE table ? Thanks for everyones input.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 08:50 AM
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What size comp cam? Im very pleased with my results and I think the ported 241's had something to do with it.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
What size comp cam? Im very pleased with my results and I think the ported 241's had something to do with it.


Here is the specs
Attached Thumbnails 98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-comp-cam-1.jpg  
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 01:08 PM
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Should sound and run good. I would have went with something like that but valvespring changes arent something I wanted to have to do annually.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
Should sound and run good. I would have went with something like that but valvespring changes arent something I wanted to have to do annually.
I lucked into this cam from a friend, he went bigger so I got it for super cheap. Otherwise I would've stayed under 224 or lower. I have a question where did you get your porting supplies.. I see they have kits on summit but just want to check with someone that has down the 241s before.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 08:13 PM
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I like those cam specs Tim. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by badformulaLS1
I like those cam specs Tim. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
Thanks a lot, My first LS1 build so I'm looking forward to it. I'm trying to keep everything GM spec.. I should have the everything ready buy this coming month, so I will definitely post my results. I welcome everyone's opinions and advice !
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TransAmTimmy
I lucked into this cam from a friend, he went bigger so I got it for super cheap. Otherwise I would've stayed under 224 or lower. I have a question where did you get your porting supplies.. I see they have kits on summit but just want to check with someone that has down the 241s before.
I just used one small round nose carbide cutter bit with an air die grinder and a few sandpaper rolls that a friend had laying around. Ill post up some pics if your intrested in seeing my shabby port work. lol.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
I just used one small round nose carbide cutter bit with an air die grinder and a few sandpaper rolls that a friend had laying around. Ill post up some pics if your intrested in seeing my shabby port work. lol.


LOL Definitely. I got the basics to the thing that need be ported but for sure I would like to see your work as well. Thanks
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:38 AM
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Ok, you asked for it. lol. First one is stock, shame on GM! Look at the 1st pic, center of pic just to the left of valve stem area at the casting buildup. Now where machining ends for valve seat area the air flow there had to have major turbulence where the seat meets the bowl. I blended the seats to the bowls to eliminate small stuff like that. I didnt open up the runners or reshape them at all. I didnt cut down the rocker bolt bosses either. Second is tapering the guide bosses down to a point. This opens up the throat area and helps air flow through the tightest point in the runners. I personally believe it helps more on exhaust side due to air flow direction going out and hitting that flat table like area of material where the guides are pressed in. Rest are finished results.
Attached Thumbnails 98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-02-18.00.35.jpg   98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-02-17.59.33.jpg   98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-02-19.27.00.jpg   98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-02-20.55.35.jpg   98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-02-20.54.00.jpg  


Last edited by JRENIGAR; Apr 25, 2014 at 08:50 AM.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:41 AM
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More pics. the last two are bad angles to show port work and more so to show 3 angle vj done after porting was completed. I have about 6 hours in port work on both heads intake and exhaust.
Attached Thumbnails 98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-02-19.26.35.jpg   98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-02-20.59.46.jpg   98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-12-18.08.37.jpg   98 Trans am Base Dyno tune-2014-04-12-18.08.45.jpg  
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
More pics. the last two are bad angles to show port work and more so to show 3 angle vj done after porting was completed. I have about 6 hours in port work on both heads intake and exhaust.
Very nice , where did you get you cutting bit ? I was told buy the machine shop to cut all the way around the valve guide and make it look like a bullet, and they said the best is that rocker boss and the exhaust side like you said. I was looking to pick up a cutting bit at homedepot but It looks like I have to order it off summit. Did you send the heads out first or after the porting ?Thanks again !
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 01:39 PM
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I had the local head shop do the vj and deck them .005" after the porting to be sure I didnt hit the seats after the vj was done. I had the cutting bit but dont remember where I got it from. It was about 3/8" in diameter with a round nose. It really made quick work of the sand casting and boss material and the sandpaper rolls smoothed out the cutting marks pretty good.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
I had the local head shop do the vj and deck them .005" after the porting to be sure I didnt hit the seats after the vj was done. I had the cutting bit but dont remember where I got it from. It was about 3/8" in diameter with a round nose. It really made quick work of the sand casting and boss material and the sandpaper rolls smoothed out the cutting marks pretty good.
That's cool, I just started one the porting tonight. I cant see why they make good numbers after porting a lot of improvements to be done.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:42 PM
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I did a very mild port job on a set of 243's a few months back but left the stock valve job alone. I didn't do a before and after but I got one cylinder flowed when they were milled and the port job picked up 12 to 15 cfm at .550 lift. Not bad for a couple of hours work.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 10:16 PM
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I have been trying to locate a cheap set of 243s and LS6 intake, but its getting hard to come by down here in Florida. I have a bet going with some friends, that I can make close to if not the same numbers across the board, with just GM heads and intake. The only aftermarket part is my cam. I'm hoping to break the 400 mark with ported and polished 241s and ported LS6,also I want to port matching everything. I really want to show some of my buddies here that you don't have to buy the most expensive aftermarket parts to make good numbers off the stock LS1 block. I know it can be reached with good work.. For now I'll have to use the 241s, but once I have 243s i'll sell the ported 241s.
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