Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

These dyno results are so far apart. One guy w/ an 01 dynos 287 and another guy w/ an 02 dynos 318. If both of these are sae corrected what could be the reason they are so far apart. I know every car is different but 30 rwhp?

LSs1Power

iTrader: (5)

The WS6 or SS has a little bit of advantage because of their catback. So u will notice an average 5-10rwhp for the WS6 or SS over a normal T/A or a Z28. That is why i gained 33rwhp 24rwtq with just a lid and catback. The car went from 292rwhp 313rwtq to 325rwhp 336rwtq. U dont see an SS or Ws6 gain that much from a catback over their's. The dyno is here http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...hoto&PhotoID=9

Its run # 2 and # 5. The others were after the headers and the last one after the cam.

2camaros6702

iTrader: (2)

My #s bone stock only with free ram air witch will not help you on a dyno are
305/329
305/340
300/329

96*
19000 miles
A4

My stock 1/8 mile time is in my sig
some people say it is vary strong some say it is average.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

I know the ss and ws6 will be slightly higer. The two cars i am refering to is an 01z and an 02z that was posted on this thread.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

"My stock 1/8 mile time is in my sig
some people say it is vary strong some say it is average.
__________________
02 Z28 FRA,K&N,A4
1/8 8.59 60FT 1.97@85.4
On stock tires "

Wish i could cut a 60 like that on my stock tires.

70 TA

I think some off the difference is that A4 cars dyno lower than the M6 cars.

I used to think my numbers where on the high side on the dyno where I went. I dont know how these dyno's are calibrated.

I noticed that my lid only #'s where almost identical to Stoleit so thats why i posted.

With lid only my car ran 106.5 in quarter on the POS stock goodyear zero traction tires which I have since changed to BFG KD.

I figure 106.5 supports the 331 RWHP #.

Joker # 9

iTrader: (1)

285hp/308tq in 85 degree heat with 55% humidity, 16,700 miles on a 100% stock 2001 6 speed Camaro SS. I think its very low, but the car did come from Cali and it does have the California Emissions RPO code, I dont know if that will prevent it from making as much power or not.

NCal

I really don't think the Cali emissions costs you that much. My '01 SS is a Cali car, and with only a K&N FIPK & SLPP Dual Dual it put down 320rwhp/344rwtq. After using my Predator tuner to add 3* timing and lean the A/F from 11.9 to 12.7:1 it put down 334rwhp/356rwtq (corrected).

You may want to find somebody with A-Tap, HPTuners or a Predator to read the LTFT's, Timing & KR during cruise and WOT conditions and see if there is a problem there. Also I've seen quite a few LS1's where the throttle only opens 89-90% instead of 100%. Grinding the "bump stop" so the throttle opens 100% nets you an easy 7-10rwhp.

Good luck sweet thing. Nick

Chris81

iTrader: (1)

1999 Trans Am M6

Direct Flo lid/K&N only - 315 rwhp and 332 rwtq
Thru the cutout - 316 rwhp and 333 rwtq

popocamaro2

iTrader: (14)

My 98 SS made 312hp with SLP Air Lid & SLP Loud Mouth at 95 degrees outside, With the addition of Jet Hot Coated headers & Off Road Y-Pipe it made 312hp at 101 degrees outside. Wish i had got a stock reading either way i am disappointed but maybe some tuning like everyone has told me to get will get some hp`s back.

longdaddy

286hp/310.5tq 3rd gear on ~80-85 degree day

'01 z28 2.73 A4. Lid & TB bypass (SOTP meter did not register much difference after these mods). I have hot weather 1500-2500 RPM ping on high octane gas although the dyno guy claims he did not see/hear any ping.

ws6hardazz

01ws6 slp lid, asp pully and cutout 332hp/349tq . the car has 70,000 miles and i can put it on stock 04cobra by1 1/2 to 2 cars....

Ta's02Ws6

i dyno'd my car with just a lid and free air mods and put down 350 rwhp and 348 rwtq waiting for slp headers them i will dyno again!

big dave

Mine made 290 rwhp stock with 118k.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

easy answer. the correction factor still sucks. you can dyno your car at 8:00 am. then let it sit. dyno again at 12:00 pm and get different numbers. same dyno, same day, no changes. humidity plays a huge factor along with atmospheric pressure. temp is the other factor. the math is still off. the only way you could get a truly accurate SAE reading, is to have the car in a sealed room where you control the environment. Correcting to SAE J1349 alters the data to make it seem as if it was taken when the atmospheric pressure was 29.23 in/hg., the temperature 77°F and the humidity zero. so, you would need to have the room with these exact parameters.

here's a perfect example. the wife's car dyno'ed 327/331 at VHP on a dynojet 248E. then i take it to corvette masters for a dyno day and it dyno'ed 313/312. why? temp was 14* hotter, and it rained right after the last run. so humidity was 100%. here's pics of the graphs.