LS_86Cut442

It wouldn't be better to run an elbow would it?

Martin Smallwood

iTrader: (2)

No, it wouldn't. That's why I asked about that to ensure you had the best throttle body configuration already in place.

IMO you also need more stall speed for that single plane and square port combo to run well, but if you must keep the 3500 stall here is what I would recommend:

240/260 .620/.603 111+5

LS_86Cut442

Well thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. Not sure if it matters but this is a 100% daily driver car. Will hardly see any track.

Martin Smallwood

iTrader: (2)

For a 100% DD, here is what I would do:

238/254 .620/.603 113+6

Great thing about a trans without a lock up converter is you'll never feel any surging or bucking that you'd feel with a manual trans or an automatic with a lock up converter. This takes away the need really to shorten the overlap event to make the car drive better, but I have done so to keep the idle from being as choppy and to help save a MPG or so.

LS_86Cut442

Thanks for all the input, I greatly appreciate it.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

That's still a lot of power to make up with a cam swap.

LS_86Cut442

Not sure if it's just me, but the thread right below mine if youre on the mobile version is a 615 flywheel horsepower set up with almost 12:1 compression much bigger cam and a super victor. I feel the 590 isn't all that bad of a number considering I'm at 11:1 and have a much smaller cam.

LS_86Cut442

[QUOTE=JakeFusion;19045826]That's still a lot of power to make up with

Here is a picture of their dyno sheet.

tug686spd

iTrader: (11)

Im going to disagree with most people in this post. I believe you have put together a damn good combination for the street. As Martin started to touch on, yes a bigger cam will make more power but needs a bigger stall. But once you go to a bigger stall in the non lock up tranny's you make alot more heat expecially in street car. To combat heat you put more gear and bigger coolers loosing a little more drivability. Take a look at the 408 sticky at top of page average hp/tq is 507/481. You will be right on them numbers with better average numbers across the board with a less efficient trans and rear. Your gear and stall is perfect for the motor you have right now and for a really quick street car. Put a chassis dyno graph up and most people will see how flat your curves are and they'll be saying the same thing I am, its going to be a hand full on the streets have fun with it.

LS_86Cut442

You make a lot of good points there. Thanks man. 10.99 street car?

1989GTA

One of the problems is there is so much variation in dynos. You could go down the street and pick up 30hp on the next dyno.

LS_86Cut442

This is also true. I was told the dyno my setup was hooked up to was attached with mufflers and exhaust. He said it was something like 610 with headers minus the exhaust.

DavidBoren

With driveability in mind, keeping the stall where it's at, and using the daily driver cam from Martin, I will wager that it drives like a dream and still makes more power than the cam you have now.

A 500+rwhp naturally aspirated daily driver is the sort of thing that's impossible not to smile when you drive.

LS_86Cut442

Amen to that.

tug686spd

iTrader: (11)

10.99 are definitely possible and probably better with tire change at track. Not real familiar with gbody fender well but looking at your pic looks to be close to a 28" tire. Tall tire is great for street, better traction and lower rpm. At track though you might need to run a shorter tire to get the number you want, I'm only saying might to that. The single plane intake allows smaller cams to peak higher and carry father. That is another reason i wouldnt go any bigger on cam. You engine dyno graph is stopped at 7k while still on peak hp. This leads me to think that it probably wont start falling off much until atleast 7300. Adding more cam will raise this another thing not really wanted in a dd because if your like me your gonna do it just because it can. Like i said earlier put it on chassis dyno and post a graph so it looks good for everyone else. Run pull until it rolls over to see where you want to shift. If you dont get on dyno tske her to ttrack and start at 7k, move up 100 at a time as long as et is getting quicker keep going until you stop gaining or as far as you feel comfortable spinning her.

LS_86Cut442

Thanks man i really appreciate it. I probably won't get it onto a chassis dyno until the spring time. I asked him for a realistic rwhp number and he said 415-420 because I only have 2.5 inch pipes as of right now. The rear end is 3.73 gears and has the 8.5" 10 bolt with the th350. That seems a bit low though no?

tug686spd

iTrader: (11)

2.5" will choke it up a little but will keep it quieter on on the street unless you got some raspy *** glass packs on there. Im not a fan of cut outs but there an option for at thr track if you cant get 3" on there.. The 420 estimate isnt close, that would be like 30% loss. I think he was just being conservative with you and not trying to blow smoke up your ***. People are always happier when they get more than expected.

LS_86Cut442

That's a good way of putting it! I'm going to get 3 inch tru duals just don't have the funds at this exact moment.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I run a nitrous converter with 3200-3400 stall on mine and my cam is larger than yours. You will find that your stroker has more than enough torque to get it done with that converter.

Take it out and drive it. You may find that engine will thrill you.

Your dyno sheet is showing quite a bit of oil pressure. What weight oil were you running on the dyno?

LS_86Cut442

[QUOTE=speedtigger;19046643]I run a nitrous converter with 3200-3400 stall on mine and my cam is larger than yours. You will find that your stroker has more than enough torque to get it done with that converter.

Take it out and drive it. You may find that engine will thrill



I'm looking forward to it. I'm sure it's going to be a blast. I'd like to be able to say I have a sub 11 daily driver and I'll be more than happy.