Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Yes sir and due to that fact good things are amplified (as well as bad things....a restrictive set of heads appear to be more restrictive under boost).

LOL to this hobby not being as expensive as golf....I should only be lucky enough to retire with the pot of gold I have invested in the search for more performance over the years!! Its better for you than say crack cocaine but not much cheaper!


Hope all is well Darth....and congrats once again on those recent awesome track results a year after installing the MMS 220 package we worked on together....really impressive results!



-Tony

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Thanks very much Tony! Fun working together on this one for sure!

Lol at crack. I tell people all the time crack would be cheaper and less addicting

Dian

when i looked at the first picture, you know what i thought? why did they use that stupid pump. my pulley broke after two weeks leaving an irregular shape of casting on the shaft.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

It was a $300 water pump (brand new GM piece) that my customer brought me. I mean if it works stock whats the big deal with a blower involved

To be honest he was thinking about a Mezeire EWP which is what I would have liked to see and now after having this issue that's the direction he is going. It will have an EWP when it gets installed in the vehicle which is bonus!

Thanks for posting.....that's interesting actually and I would have never guessed this was even remotely a common issue

-Tony

Dian

like this (and i did not weld it on, which probably just weakens the pulley):



can you say something on the intercooling?

Austinma62

Awesome build! I would love to see a dyno chart of the torque down low. And they really do need to make these for 4th gens. This would be my next build in a heart beat.

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

I'm not even sure what that is a picture of!?....LOL

Seriously....what the hell is that? Looks like the idler pulley but I don't see spot in the center that would locate on the water pump hub

TM

G Atsma

I'm guessing the water pump pulley with the hub ripped out rather unceremoniously! lol

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Holy crap....your spot on.....the pic was just an awkward shot....I wasn't sure what the hell I was looking at.....damn....that could ruin your day if it broke in the vehicle under a brisk burst of acceleration somewhere!

I didnt think this was a common issue....is it something related to GTO's? Zillions of guys on the road with OEM pumps....never saw these kinds of failures previously

-Tony

G Atsma

Yeah, just going by the pics the material looks REALLY thin, but the pic might not portray the real picture. Having a water pump pulley shred like this is not often heard about (at least by me...), so they must actually be fairly tough.

Dian

zillions, yes, but with a centri, no. i see guys routinely tig them on, which i doubt is a good idea.

so how do you intercool the engine?

G Atsma

Let me amend my previous post by saying not often hearing about shredding pulleys in a NA situation. Where the main belt also drives the blower, I can totally see it.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

How do the Corvette water pump pulleys hold up in comparison to the F-Body/GTO water pump pulley? I ask, because I'm picking up an Aster Bracker and Corvette Water Pump with the pulley spaced out for my F-Body. It looks like a denser pulley...

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

There is an intercooler directly under the blower....its low profile and is already included in the "packaging" that you see. It blasts the pressurized air directly into the floor underneath it and air is forced to make a 90' turn (left or right) to head towards the exit of the blower and the entrance of the heads.

It has a half inch of space there at most....its really a crap design but clearly it doesnt matter as the power we made says it doesn't....LOL. It would be scary what even an additional half inch of room would do there.....I bet its a quick 25-35 horses and lower IAT's. I will post a pic I took with my cell phone when I have some time showing you guys what Im talking about. They make the overall packaging of the blower as low as possible to fit as many stock hood applications as they can.

I saw a ton of room to port this unit for better results also but we never discussed that originally and I had no time to consider doing that as it was installed only a few days before the dyno test. In fact the customers original plan was just to run it N/A to make sure it ran properly, good oil pressure etc. and then see what it made in full blower trim on the chassis dyno installed in his GTO.

Im glad we ran the blower in spite of the issues....even not seeing it's full potential I was pretty blown away with the results especially after really seeing the design of the intercooler and all the power left on the table un-ported. It was my first time messing with one of these TVS 2300 to be real honest....for a piece that doesnt have alot of finesse and (IMO) a very compromised design, it was impressive what it put down when used in conjunction with a really good set of heads, good cam selection and a solid valvetrain.

Regards,
Tony

Dian

im using a ls3 pump now. seems a better design.



tony, do you have an idea about iat and waterflow?

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Tony iirc you said something similar about the blower in your CTSV. tiny air gap. It would be really crazy to see what you could do with your airflow wizardry on a blower

Jimbo1367

Tony,
do you think it would be worth try a LLSR with this combo? How long do you think the LS3 block will tolerate this kind of insane power? At what point do you think a LSA block should be used.

eaglegoat

I might have missed it but what's the pulley combo?

Tony @ Mamo Motorsports

Dont recall....customer provided all that.....I wasn't involved in that set-up but we nailed pretty much what we were after making around 14 PSI at peak power pushing on a really good head which makes it more difficult to make "boost" because the air is flowing through it and being converted into horsepower (the true endgame...not just a big number on the boost gauge!....LOL).

Boost is just a measure of back pressure.....the better the head the less backpressure that will exist so this blower was moving some air that's for sure.

I will be speaking with this customer again soon....when I do I will get the pulley sizes. I want to say 10" lower and 3" upper but Im not 100% on that.

Honestly an LLSR would have added to the numbers but this combo doesnt need alot of RPM so some of that advantage inherent in an SR set up is negated....and when you can make this much power with zero maintenance it almost seems silly to consider an SR. Another pound of boost with a pulley swap is worth twice the gains an LLSR would provide. Personally I think an LLSR is a better consideration in a really fine tuned and optimized N/A engine where you can spin it higher to take more advantage and where another 15 RWHP is alot harder to come by. Its extremely challenging to make big power N/A....the move to a solid roller assuming the shortblock is built properly to handle the added RPM is certainly a consideration assuming the budget is there and the willingness to adjust valves every now and again. It's not for everyone....honestly it's not for most due to how good you can get a properly set up HR system to perform these days (and have zero maintenance), but for some of the more unique higher dollar combos out there it's an upgrade worthy of consideration if your looking to squeeze all you can from a naturally aspirated set-up

Regarding the block, with the right tune I think he will be just fine.....if he was racing it all the time I would be a bit more concerned but its mainly a street toy and will only see occasional track outings where its really hooking and loading the engine components a bit more.

Regards,
Tony

eaglegoat

I appreciate that. I know it's not a 10" lower. That GTO blower kit runs off the accessory drive and a 10" crank pulley would hit that water pump. His Innovaters West lower looks like an 8" and I'm sure the jackshaft is overdriven. It's the upper pulley I'm really curious about. A 3" or 3.1" makes the most sense. Those heads are doing a great job. I'd love to see what a .5" phenolic spacer between the upper and lower manifold would do on this build.