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After over 12 months of saving, careful planning, and networking in my area, my car finally has all of the modifications I've ever wanted it to have, minus 1 or 2 small ones.
List of mods:
3.23 gears (came with 2.73 stock)
built 4l60e stage 2 racing transmission
3400 TCI Stall
Transmission Cooler
Poly motor and trans mounts
Aluminum drive shaft
Ported and Polished Throttle body
243 heads (from a 2003 Z06, not ported)
BTR Stage III Cam
Speed Engineering 1 3/4 inch Longtubes
Texas Speed Catback with built-in cutout (it's their newest one, listed here:https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5187-t...d-cut-out.aspx ) For the record, I was not able to witness my car being tuned, had a buddy drive it up there so I do not know if the cutout was opened or closed.
Off road Y-pipe, 3 inch
SLP Lid
Ported LS6 oil pump
LS2 timing chain
160* T-stat
Mods I still want to do are electric cutout, since the catback has a built in cutout, and just update the tint, it's over 10 years old and has started to bubble.
For the results 352RWHP and 415RWTQ I was a little confused at first. After some asking around most people I've talked with agree that the converter was likely unlocked during the tune and that it flashed early on giving the dyno a false reading on the torque, so the numbers are probably in the 375-385 range for torque.
AS for the low WHP I've done some research and asking around, for most dynos it's pretty well known that Mustang Dynos do indeed read lower than Dynojets, it's a bit technical and over my head but it has something to do with load bearing resistance on a mustang dyno. After following the tuner's facebook page I saw that they had a 2017 Camaro SS 1LE in and they dyno'd it, it came back with roughly 360RWHP, which puts my car at 8-15WHP less than a new LT1 which is rated at 455 from the crank. So I think it's safe to say my car is NOT under performing in terms of the tune or its horsepower, it's in the 430-440HP range, which I'm very pleased with.
This is my first cammed car and driving it afterwards has taken some getting used to. Letting the car sit and idle for 3-5 minutes after you start it prior to driving was different. I confess I did not know this right off the bat and let it idle for 60 seconds on my first drive before trying to back it out of my driveway, the car died 3 times in the driveway. QQ I won't make that mistake again.
Gas mileage is GREATLY reduced, not that I care much, it's my weekend car. I estimate I'm probably getting 12-13MPG in the city. IF anyone has any questions on the car or the build feel free to ask. I know I referenced these forums hundreds if not thousands of times along the way during my car's build. Happy to be in the cammed car club now!
Your car has more in it. I don't think it had peaked yet. That cam with your heads and intake should peak around 6400 rpm. Didn't even pull to 6000 it looks like. Yes, the 415tq is likely converter flash.
Strictly is a dsm import tuning shop that does not know what they are doing
You cars idle problems are not normal, and neither is a zl1 dyno at 360whp. That should be your sign, their dyno isn't calibrated correctly and your car barely idles now when it's warm.
They don't even show your AFR on the dyno run.
They are openly advertising that their dyno is out of calibration on their Facebook page.
Power reads low for the same reason torque reads high. That dyno measures torque and calculates horsepower. With an unlocked converter, engine RPM is higher than dyno calculated RPM from wheel speed and engine torque is lower than the dyno reading because of the torque multiplication in the converter. If you assumed negligible converter torque multiplication at the peak there at 5966 and your tach in the car read 6500rpm at the end of the pull, you could recalculate....HP=313*6500/5252=387hp. That'll be a little optimistic because there is still some converter torque multiplication even at that higher RPM, but it would be close.
I'm not sure about that shop's ability but your readings are very low even for a Mustang and an unlocked converter. My dad's car is very similar to your build and it made 409 on a Mustang MD250 in the Texas gulf coast air and heat. Pat G did that tune so everyone here knows that is a good base comparison.
Strictly is a dsm import tuning shop that does not know what they are doing
You cars idle problems are not normal, and neither is a zl1 dyno at 360whp. That should be your sign, their dyno isn't calibrated correctly and your car barely idles now when it's warm.
They don't even show your AFR on the dyno run.
They are openly advertising that their dyno is out of calibration on their Facebook page.
The other picture is a Camaro SS 1LE, not the ZL1. 1LE is rated at 455 crank HP, so mine is just under that on their very conservative mustang dyno.
Originally Posted by codyvette
I'm not sure about that shop's ability but your readings are very low even for a Mustang and an unlocked converter. My dad's car is very similar to your build and it made 409 on a Mustang MD250 in the Texas gulf coast air and heat. Pat G did that tune so everyone here knows that is a good base comparison.
Every dyno reads different.
I'm not sure I've seen many N/A camed cars read over 400WHP on a Mustang Dyno. On a dynojet all day, sure.
Power reads low for the same reason torque reads high. That dyno measures torque and calculates horsepower. With an unlocked converter, engine RPM is higher than dyno calculated RPM from wheel speed and engine torque is lower than the dyno reading because of the torque multiplication in the converter. If you assumed negligible converter torque multiplication at the peak there at 5966 and your tach in the car read 6500rpm at the end of the pull, you could recalculate....HP=313*6500/5252=387hp. That'll be a little optimistic because there is still some converter torque multiplication even at that higher RPM, but it would be close.
Thanks Jake.
Seems people are only looking at the WHP and ignoring the obviously erroneous Torque readings.
What makes you think the cam is installed wrong???
cam advanced one tooth or more would net higher low end torque and lower high end power and a cam that peaks too early. Your graph looks that way to me...
cam advanced one tooth or more would net higher low end torque and lower high end power and a cam that peaks too early. Your graph looks that way to me...
if you google images of the BTR stage 3 or any cam for that matter in an ls, none of them look like that. Graph looks like an over advanced cam to me. Just trying to help you out.
I'm not sure I've seen many N/A camed cars read over 400WHP on a Mustang Dyno. On a dynojet all day, sure.
There have been plenty over the years...especially with LS6 243 heads. Again the numbers would be the least of my concern. The cam is peaking too early imo for that setup...
You shouldn't have to let your car sit and warm up for that long just so you can drive it. You're start up and idle tuning sound like they're off. And I agree with others that your cam is peaking too early. I've got a similar cam from Tick and it was still climbing at 6300. I would look around your area for different tuners and do some research on them. Once you find a good one they'll get your car lined out and you'll actually be able to enjoy it.
07-28-2017, 06:41 PM
BTR Stage 3 Cam, dyno results are in! 
