are these numbers reasonable
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 37
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If the camshaft is installed properly, and you have the tune and converter sorted out and it's still the same.
Then it would have to be something wrong in the valvetrain.
I had an issue once.
I was running a Lingenfelter 229/242 114 LSA camshaft once when my engine was a 6.0.
It made very good power however after 5000rpm the power just died off when this camshaft should have pulled to 6800rpm+
I found out later, those lobes on the Lingenfelters camshaft are Comp LSK which are brutal on the valve train and you need very strong springs to control them.
I just had average dual valve springs that were rated to .650 lift.
I also believe my valve train geometry was not right either but I could not confirm this. Maybe even the pushrods were not strong enough or the preload wans't right. Maybe even a combination of both.
I was dealing with a moron who was in the middle back then who I no longer use anymore.
He ended up not being able to sell his business because of his bad reputation, and then he burnt it down and made it look like it was an electrical fault with the wiring even though the building was only 5 years old.
Then it would have to be something wrong in the valvetrain.
I had an issue once.
I was running a Lingenfelter 229/242 114 LSA camshaft once when my engine was a 6.0.
It made very good power however after 5000rpm the power just died off when this camshaft should have pulled to 6800rpm+
I found out later, those lobes on the Lingenfelters camshaft are Comp LSK which are brutal on the valve train and you need very strong springs to control them.
I just had average dual valve springs that were rated to .650 lift.
I also believe my valve train geometry was not right either but I could not confirm this. Maybe even the pushrods were not strong enough or the preload wans't right. Maybe even a combination of both.
I was dealing with a moron who was in the middle back then who I no longer use anymore.
He ended up not being able to sell his business because of his bad reputation, and then he burnt it down and made it look like it was an electrical fault with the wiring even though the building was only 5 years old.
Will keep updates coming as i check things out.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
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what i ended up buying as a Texas Speed 228R cam kit. It came with dual valve springs and pushrods. Texas Speed swears these should handle the cam with no problem at all. So I guess i need to recheck pushrod length, rockers, and lifters.
Will keep updates coming as i check things out.
Will keep updates coming as i check things out.
Check spring install install heights etc too.
Not really a fan of single pattern camshafts due to the fact that the intake and exhaust do not flow equally.
Even high end cathedral heads have a 4-6 degree splits.
A 228/236 113+2 would work better.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
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If you had the same intake and exhaust flow a single pattern camshaft would work best for sure.
No head cylinder in the LS world flows like this.
Ls1/LS2 cathedrals like a 6-10 degree split
LS3/LS7 like a 12-17 degree split
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,291
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From: Central Cal.
You might also check out Cam Motion. They have some really great cams, and they custom grind too.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,898
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I strongly recommend the 227/234 113 LSA +2 or for something more aggressive go with the stage 3 which is a 231/242 112 LSA +2
Both of these will work great.
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The issue is likey tune related. That giant dip and recovery is likely knock or something making false knock.
The 228r cam is also fine for what you are doing.. it makes plenty of power no need to go with something different there.
The rest of the valvetrain would only be an issue if something was improperly installed or if the pushrods were too long.
Stay the course, keep the cam, and diagnose the issues.
The 228r cam is also fine for what you are doing.. it makes plenty of power no need to go with something different there.
The rest of the valvetrain would only be an issue if something was improperly installed or if the pushrods were too long.
Stay the course, keep the cam, and diagnose the issues.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 467
The issue is likey tune related. That giant dip and recovery is likely knock or something making false knock.
The 228r cam is also fine for what you are doing.. it makes plenty of power no need to go with something different there.
The rest of the valvetrain would only be an issue if something was improperly installed or if the pushrods were too long.
Stay the course, keep the cam, and diagnose the issues.
The 228r cam is also fine for what you are doing.. it makes plenty of power no need to go with something different there.
The rest of the valvetrain would only be an issue if something was improperly installed or if the pushrods were too long.
Stay the course, keep the cam, and diagnose the issues.
Otherwise it will be something else.
Cam choice from Tooley as mentioned earlier is still better.
Originally Posted by tech@WS6store
The issue is likey tune related. That giant dip and recovery is likely knock or something making false knock.
The 228r cam is also fine for what you are doing.. it makes plenty of power no need to go with something different there.
The rest of the valvetrain would only be an issue if something was improperly installed or if the pushrods were too long.
Stay the course, keep the cam, and diagnose the issues.
The 228r cam is also fine for what you are doing.. it makes plenty of power no need to go with something different there.
The rest of the valvetrain would only be an issue if something was improperly installed or if the pushrods were too long.
Stay the course, keep the cam, and diagnose the issues.
Originally Posted by tech@WS6store
Id say any other cam at this point would not be a better choice.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 37
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yes i have decided to keep the cam i have now so that i can upgrade suspension. I also checked valvetrain and everything seems to be correct. I am getting my roommate (He has built several cars) to check the valve train as well. I am really wondering if the dyno was just off by that much at this point.
Also the tune does have a small problem, but i have no idea why i have data logged and never seen the car knock, I'm wondering if my sensors even work, but we are tryin to figure out why the graph did dip like that. i will keep everyone updated
Also the tune does have a small problem, but i have no idea why i have data logged and never seen the car knock, I'm wondering if my sensors even work, but we are tryin to figure out why the graph did dip like that. i will keep everyone updated