2002 Nitrous Z06

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Jul 22, 2019 | 03:01 PM

02EBC5Z06

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From: Massillon, OH

2002 Nitrous Z06

(Copied this from my thread on corvetteforum, so some parts may not be known or applicable on here)

Car has been a HCI car for the past 2 years now. Stage 2.5 TEA 243s, Fast 102, BTR stage 4 LS3 cam, etc.. Made 450/400 on my tuners dyno jet. Car was strong and I was very happy with it. Knew it was going to end up as a nitrous car though since I play with the dope so much with other friend's cars and it is just fun stuff. Started working on the electronics side of it and pulling together parts. Went from an NX proton kit that I bought, to trading the proton unit for two NX solenoids and a single nozzle, to finally a 102mm outlet plate. Along with a couple different brackets for the solenoids till I finally found the right combo to clear the hood and work with the outlet hardline kit (needed shorter motor mounts, thanks Mark at AMT for the phenomenal customer service and support).

If you know me, you know I will change my mind, better my thought process, and just expand on something till I am happy with it. (Although I still continue to find something to change for the better, not a bad thing though).. So this past winter I tore the car down as the fast 102 when installed was tight and I knew it rubbed on the firewall/cowl. I pulled it off to find that the top shelf got rubbed in pretty good (not all the way through), the two lower to upper shell bolted connections were loose (nuts fell out) probably causing a nice vacuum leak.. The front of the manifold under the tb flange ( i sanded some off during install to clear steam vent lines) had a tiny hole in it under the seal (also possibly causing a vacuum leak). . I decided to regasket and possibly port match the manifold. I accomplished the first part, but found that the newest versions of the 102 are pretty smooth and match the 243 port job from TEA extremely well. On to bigger and better things we go...

I decided to pull the heads as well to have TEA look over them as I thought by my quick valve drop measurements that maybe I could mill more off them to bump the compression. The heads are 66cc chambers still mind you with the larger valve option from TEA. Turns out I was wrong on my measurement so they did not mill them.. Found out the valve guides were worn in decently on the exhaust valves, so I had all new guides put in (starting to feel like an LS7... lol).

During all of this I had Bret (blownbluez06) modify my pump hanger to fit a single 450 to it, as well as build me a complete line setup to mount a magnafuel regulator in the fenderwell and set it up for E85 as well. Great work and Bret has turned into a good friend and support for any questions I ever need. I also relocated my battery to the rear of the car using a Braille 3121 battery. This was because of my nitrous wiring board in the rear of the car as well as mounting a breather tank up where the battery was before. Install went extremely well and I am very happy with how it turned out.

Anyways, during install of the heads again, I decided once more to use a new set of factory gm headbolts (have always worked fine for me). Well this was the point where they did not. I installed the heads and a couple of them on the final degree pass felt loose still... I didn't think too much of it because the TTY bolts are little ***** and are unpredictable sometimes. I move on from here... Top end of motor is together.. Putting headers on and during install of the driver header, one of the bolts gets tight going in.... I was not pleased.. I start backing it out and it remains tighter than a ticks ***.. I know now that the bolt is going to break so I just got as much of it out of the hole before it did.. Had a buddy come over to try welding a nut to it and what not to no success... Head had to come off. I pull the head off as well as the passenger and bought a new set of arp head bolts... Well, during removal, the passenger side pulled the threads out of the block. Now I am upset

Im talking to Bret while I do this and let him know the situation. He informs me he has a stud kit at his shop that I could buy and return the bolts.. So I do that.. I also had to buy the time sert kit with the fixture and all to repair the holes in the block... I decided to do all 20 holes instead of just the few. My engine builder/machine shop told me that when the holes are clean that the stud should thread in by hand quite easily and if it doesn't, then rethread the hole. Most holes were snug so I did all 20. This wasn't fun, it was time consuming, not really that nerve racking though (I am a machinist by trade and am not too worried about this kind of work).. All holes are stronger than they were though now. So I finally get the engine together (for the second time). Had a buddy help put the headers in this time to not put a strain on the bolts. Removed the power steering from the car.. Just looped the rack.. I was sick of pulling the steering and reinstalling so I just left it off.. It may go back on later, it may not. Isn't really that much effort to turn the thing honestly.

Also being added to the car this year was a GZ motorsports vacuum pump kit that I bought from Pete (capthuff) on here. I was most excited about this piece as nobody wants crankcase pressure and I resealed the entire bottom end aside from the rear main due to some leaks.

Car was finally together, full of corn, driving... time for a tune.

Get the car pilled for a 100 shot just to see what it likes timing wise on the dyno. Planned on raising the jet on the street later on.

Car gets on the dyno, my tuner starts with some quick changes for the injectors and fuel to get it close. Start working on part throttle and some 4k rpm range and my tuner asks if my fuel pressure was dropping off hard as the VE was trying to be around 120%+ from the 112-113% it was used to before.. We pulled the lower fender cover off and stuck my phone down there to take a video of a quick pull and pressure stayed constant. I told him the heart wants what the heart wants and let's see where this is gonna go.

Ended up picking up about 20whp/17wtq.... I was very excited about that. If we stopped there on the dyno, I would have been happy with that knowing it gained that much from the vacuum pump... ( I say just the vacuum pump because I kind of doubt the corn added much of anything to that gain). I heated the bottle and put a fresh set of plugs in the motor. Made a pull on the bottle and killed it right after the pull and making sure the car wasn't gonna shut down... 2* taken out got the timing mark right on top of the bend at the strap and no detonation signs as well as a good ring color.

Dyno sheet as well as progress pics below...

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