Ok guys, took my 99 SS to be dyno'ed yesterday. I went to Prostlers Dyno shop near Topeka, KS. They have a Dyno Dynamics dyno, which I had never hear of but the owner claimed has much more realistic HP #'s then at DynoJet.
The bottom line is
HP 262 @ 5400
TQ 272 @ 4500

Needless to say I almost puked when I saw the #'s. I asked why they were so low being the car runs great. He said that my #'s are good, which I know the car should have about 310-320 RWHP with my mods. He said if I wanted Dynojet #'s to add 15% to his dyno #'s. Does this sound right to you guys?
He gave me a new sheet with dynojet #'s that showed 301HP and 318TQ but I don't really trust it, he just added 15% across the board. He said he dyno'ed one other LS1 camaro that came in at a few ponies less than mine, stock.

I discovered after the two dyno runs that I had left my A/C on during both pulls, very nice. Any idea what this cost me?

Car is a 99 SS, M6, 51K, TSP lid, Holley filter, Magnaflow catback, free mods.

 

It is probably a "Mustang" dyno, and those are usually ~15% lower than a DJ. So, your 262 rwhp becomes 301 rwhp, which is about right like he said. The AC being on doesn't cost you anything, at full throttle the AC compressor clutch unlocks and freewheels.

Shawn

 

301 sounds a little low to me. When I dynoed my car with same mods and a predator I made 323/336, but I dynoed on a dynojet.

 

Is your car slower than most? I doubt it so dont worry.
I like this quote
"When I get outran by a dynojet ill worry about the #'s"
It's all just a number.
Anyhow sounds like a mustang dyno to me also. They are suppose to be more realistic. Nothing wrong with that. Just the standard most people judge by is on a dynojet.

 

FWIW when I went to a MustangDyno these were my numbers stock:
280 rwhp
292 rwtq

Hope that helps

 

Hey dont feel bad at all. My 98 SS went 280hp and 300tq (on a Dynojet) with a lid/K&N and free mods. As long as you are running somewhere in the 13s I wouldnt worry about it. Just me $0.02

 

Thanks for the moral support guys. My car is definitly not slow, but I haven't been to the track yet. Next time I might just go to a Dynojet. The owner of the Dyno say's it's not a Mustang dyno; claims it dyno's about 7% lower on average because it's more realistic. I don't know, but I would think my MPH at the track should be in @105 ar above (faster if my SS wasn't a convertible).

 

I have free mods, Spec Stage III, SLP lid and a cutout.

My best run was a 13.6 @ 105.1 mph. These cars are hard to tell how they will do on the strip...I say if it feels fast to you then that's all that matters! if it doesn't. Do more mods!

 

99s do seem to dyno a little lower than other years for some reason. I think the 301 rwhp guess/figure he gave you should be right in line. Mine 99SS made only 296 rwhp with the lid being my only mod. Of course my high mileage (117k) may have cost me some ponies. My current boltons and numbers are in my sig.

 

Yeah, 98's an 99's typically dyno in the 290's stock.

But mine with just lid, catback, and air filter did 321.9 rwhp / 340.3 rwtq

 

I made 274hp on the mustang dyno as well and was not to pleased but was told that the dynojet is the numbers most people post but the only dynojet we have around here is at a sorry shop i do not trust so........ i will have to stick with the mustang dyno i wonder what my SS would make on the dyno jet though

 

I LOVE IT....LMAO

 

I Have a Dyno Dynamics Dyno and the shop owner is 100% correct in his response to your questions. The difference in the dyno as you probably saw was the car is actually loaded and set to ramp up at a predetermined rate while at WOT. I have run into this many times and the actual conversion is 13%. This Dyno is very sensitive and extremely repeatable, which is good to find real hp gains when you modify your car. If you have any questions about this or need to verify his claims or explanations please e-mail me and I will be glad to help you out in any way I can.

 

Thanks for the help. The dyno owner seemed honest, I just like to double check things. I'm just basically paranoid about having a "slower" than normal SS. My last car was a 98 Z28, totally stock. That car had higher miles but would chirp the tires in 2nd (stock tires), my SS won't. It could have somthing to do with the 275 vs. 245 tire width and also 16 rims vs 18" rims. In any case, I'm going to the track in two weeks, hope I don't get kicked off after 1 run.

 

My numbers are in the sig with the current mods... I think I'm about average... not a slug nor a factory beast... Oh and my numbers are with a dyno jet. BTW I scratch 2nd gear fairly easily in my car. Maybe you have ultra sticky tires or need to try shifting quicker. I think the biggest thing holding my car back now is the flowmaster. Good luck at the track!

 

Dyno numbers are for tuning, MPH at the track shows the real RWHP...

 

Some of that might be your clutch slipping.

After my new clutch went in (LS6 kit), I can chirp 4th with drag radials, and I know my car isn't "blazingly fast". Dyno jet BONE STOCK numbers were only 303.5 and since then i've done the mods in my sig, so i'm sure I didn't gain like 100hp.

 

 

Dyno Dynamics is actually its own brand. They are a Australian Company. (curious as to why a shop would by a foriegn machine with all of the US dyno manufactures???) Anyhow, Dynojet #'s are high...in fact, Dynojet was getting challenged so much on their formulas, that if you compare a run using the latest software to earlier versions there is a difference in power on the same run! You have to remember what Mark Dobeck was doing when he started the company....selling jet kits for bikes. Big hp=happy customers. Nobody wants to hear a low power # before or after a mod that they spent their hard earned $ on. Now some people are going to scream and rave that dynojet is the industry standard....lol....thats a shame. I agree they have become the internets standard, but not the industry standard. The dynojet machine is a simple, affordable, very limited, low end dyno that has been marketed to the masses better than any other dynamometer.

As far as dyno dynamics, i believe they still use an 8" smooth roller...very limited as far as hp capability/prone to tire spinning. The scary part is that the company says to preload the rear/front axle with tie downs to provide traction! Needless to say, horrible for results, repeatability and the tires themselves. The software(the heart of any dyno) is ancient and limiting.

In any case, when you find a dyno and a good operator...stick with it. Usable dyno info comes from averaging and repeating....EVERYTHING! The ventilation, fluid temps, air pressures, the test itself....and always average the runs. Do 3 pulls, then avg....make the mod, do 3 pulls, then avg....then look at the data. If you have to spend a little more money to get on a dyno with a load cell/strain guage(actually measures torque)....then do it. Equally important, if you can find a system with a true road load simulation (the dyno provides simulation of vehicle weight, wind resistance and grade of the road) use it. Once you see what a real dynamometer can provide, there is no going back...

 

me and some friends go through this over our bikes ... im not so much worried about what 1 particular dyno gives me but rather what gains i get over my previous setup ... sounds like you were just wanting to know what you were making though

timeslips mean everything to me