Most disappointing modded ls1 I've seen
#21
thanks for killijng my thread by moving it to this forum mods. I didn't post it for a dyno archive. I posted it asking for questions relating to my cam swap and other mods to see what I could have done wrong. Well, if anyone DOES read this, I have my .ls1 files ready to send out now. Those that have already asked have them in their mailbox now.
#23
Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Mustang dyno's read way low. Also a cam only, 3500 stalled A4 is not going to be a dyno queen. As for your times, they are low. Your set-up should be running 11's. The car is also very heavy.
EJ
#26
You didnt list track conditions, tire pressure, shift rpm, or what your 60 feet times were. It's hard to analyze without that information.
Depending on the above information I think your tuning might be a little off especially shiftpoint tuning.
It makes a huge difference especially with a cam
Depending on the above information I think your tuning might be a little off especially shiftpoint tuning.
It makes a huge difference especially with a cam
#27
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
You didnt list track conditions, tire pressure, shift rpm, or what your 60 feet times were. It's hard to analyze without that information.
Depending on the above information I think your tuning might be a little off especially shiftpoint tuning.
It makes a huge difference especially with a cam
Depending on the above information I think your tuning might be a little off especially shiftpoint tuning.
It makes a huge difference especially with a cam
#28
I meant traction conditions at the track, not DA.
What is your WOT timing, AF, and did you properly scale the injectors?
What are your LTRIMS and STRIMS reading at cruise throttle, part throttle and half-3/4 throttle?
Any knock retard at any throttle position?
Did you drive the car far with the stock tune and injectors in it? If so you might have drowned the plugs/washed the rings with all the extra fuel.
Finally what are the exact cam specs? You mentioned 226/226 but what LSA/ICL, lift etc?
What is your WOT timing, AF, and did you properly scale the injectors?
What are your LTRIMS and STRIMS reading at cruise throttle, part throttle and half-3/4 throttle?
Any knock retard at any throttle position?
Did you drive the car far with the stock tune and injectors in it? If so you might have drowned the plugs/washed the rings with all the extra fuel.
Finally what are the exact cam specs? You mentioned 226/226 but what LSA/ICL, lift etc?
#29
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
I meant traction conditions at the track, not DA.
What is your WOT timing, AF, and did you properly scale the injectors?
What are your LTRIMS and STRIMS reading at cruise throttle, part throttle and half-3/4 throttle?
Any knock retard at any throttle position?
Did you drive the car far with the stock tune and injectors in it? If so you might have drowned the plugs/washed the rings with all the extra fuel.
Finally what are the exact cam specs? You mentioned 226/226 but what LSA/ICL, lift etc?
What is your WOT timing, AF, and did you properly scale the injectors?
What are your LTRIMS and STRIMS reading at cruise throttle, part throttle and half-3/4 throttle?
Any knock retard at any throttle position?
Did you drive the car far with the stock tune and injectors in it? If so you might have drowned the plugs/washed the rings with all the extra fuel.
Finally what are the exact cam specs? You mentioned 226/226 but what LSA/ICL, lift etc?
I had Seth (F1Z06) do the baseline tune, and he knew about the injectors. I have to assume they were scaled properly. When I used to tune lt1 cars you could just program in what size the injectors are and it would adjust from there. ls1 edit doesn't have that feature. In factthe injector scaling is based on MAP and I haven't figured out the numbers correlation to anything, so I didn't touch them.
plugs were brand new before firing the car. TR55 plugs probably overgapped slightly (around .055-.058...I remembered the gap wrong when I set and installed them). Wires are brand new MSD Superconductors.
I do notice a slight miss at idle. you don't feel it so much as you can see it in the engine with an occasional shake if you are watching it from the front of the car. Don't know what this is related to, but I have run an infrared temp gun on all the header tubes and they were all with a reasonable variation.
The LSA is 112, but I am not 100% sure on the ICL. I'll have to dig up the cam card. Thought I did mention lift. .595/.595
I'll post my last log, but keep in mind it's from ls1_scan, so the KR numbers are off by an order of 10. (meaning if it says 40 degrees, it's really 4 degrees). I did adjust the tune after this run, but the laptop hiccuped and I wasn't able to log it. I subracted a degree over the RPMs that saw knock and added a degree where they hadn't.
#30
You will need to scale the IFR table to get the injectors inline. This is scaled using MAP references. (0-100)
If that table isnt touched your injectors aren't scaled and you are going to definitely wash the rings.
If that table isnt touched your injectors aren't scaled and you are going to definitely wash the rings.
#31
Your peak massflow is at 38 lb/min which is around 380 rwhp if your tune is good. Looks to me like you're running crazy rich with your o2's over 1 volt. What do your power enrichment tables look like? And it probably wouldn't hurt to regap your plugs.
#33
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
You will need to scale the IFR table to get the injectors inline. This is scaled using MAP references. (0-100)
If that table isnt touched your injectors aren't scaled and you are going to definitely wash the rings.
If that table isnt touched your injectors aren't scaled and you are going to definitely wash the rings.
#34
Chris I think you're right about the injectors not being scaled. He's seeing over 900 mV at idle and over 1000 at WOT which is way rich. For some reason the ltrims at idle are only like -5. Maybe your o2 sensors are bad too?
#35
I was told my duty cycle would be maxing out with the old injectors and the new ones were a good idea. I still have the stock ones. I'm sure it was scaled for the new injectors as we had a discussion specifically about the fact that I had them. the only thing I am not sure of, as I stated, is how the flow is affected by the higher pressure the LS1 puts to them.
#36
If he didnt touch the IFR table the injectors are not scaled.
Those injectors are way overkill for your mod level. There are guys with 500+RWHP running stock 98 injectors and 450+RWHP running stock 99-00 injectors.
I would put the bone stock program and injectors back in and go to a different location for tuning. If you know a good tuner you can keep the bigger injectors and get them scaled properly but at this point those injectors were a waste of money.
Is there a quality tuning shop near you with a dyno and wideband?
even if there is one 200 miles away I would make the trip if I were you.
(Put in the stock program and stock injectors, (just raise your idle speed to 1000rpm) and drive gently to the tuner. (Dont go WOT)
If you aren't careful you'll end up needing to pull the motor, rehone and re-ring it if you wash the rings.
Those injectors are way overkill for your mod level. There are guys with 500+RWHP running stock 98 injectors and 450+RWHP running stock 99-00 injectors.
I would put the bone stock program and injectors back in and go to a different location for tuning. If you know a good tuner you can keep the bigger injectors and get them scaled properly but at this point those injectors were a waste of money.
Is there a quality tuning shop near you with a dyno and wideband?
even if there is one 200 miles away I would make the trip if I were you.
(Put in the stock program and stock injectors, (just raise your idle speed to 1000rpm) and drive gently to the tuner. (Dont go WOT)
If you aren't careful you'll end up needing to pull the motor, rehone and re-ring it if you wash the rings.
#37
I have 1badls1.com (hardcore racing) and livernois motorsports both within 2 hours of me. unfortunately I don't have the $500-$800 either of them will charge for a good tune session (Unless someone wants to buy a brand new turbo from me )
#38
Originally Posted by Timberwolf
I have 1badls1.com (hardcore racing) and livernois motorsports both within 2 hours of me. unfortunately I don't have the $500-$800 either of them will charge for a good tune session (Unless someone wants to buy a brand new turbo from me )
For a simple tune do the following:
Bump your idle speed
set rev limit
shift points
timing (both low and high octane tables)
fan programming (put in a 160 stat)
adjust your AF using PEvsRPM table
Look at your knock retard settings
Look at your IAC counts warm at idle
check your AF on tip in
you can do some of the above before you hit the dyno to save time/money.
A quality tune is worth 500 bucks easily plus I bet you'll go 4-5 tenths faster and have way better drivability.
Also you will end up spending a LOT more than 500 bucks if you waste your rings and have to rebuild...
good luck
Chris
#39
I put slohawk's tune in there. seems to pull harder. Logged a run if anyone wants to see it. Still got bad surge in open loop idle, but once it goes into closed it's fine.
Conditions of this run were:
Back country road, about 50 degrees F. street tires, launched in drive off
idle, so it spun, went to second while spinning, then when it caught
traction stayed in second and pulled from there. You can see how all this
happened by watching the MPH. I see it recorded some knock, but if Ken is
right, then the numbers are still high by an order of 10x. Dunno if that's
100% accurate or not.
Conditions of this run were:
Back country road, about 50 degrees F. street tires, launched in drive off
idle, so it spun, went to second while spinning, then when it caught
traction stayed in second and pulled from there. You can see how all this
happened by watching the MPH. I see it recorded some knock, but if Ken is
right, then the numbers are still high by an order of 10x. Dunno if that's
100% accurate or not.
#40
i think the injectors are a huge waste of money and imo you honestly dont have enough car to need them. the stockers are good for good bit more than you are giving them. i would put them back in and go from there. that would make things much easier cause im betting that you are running pig rich. go pay 60bucks or so for a dyno run with a/f ratio and check it out to be safe.