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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 07:40 PM
  #21  
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Why a 6.0 crank? I *think* that I remember something about the 6.0 crank being "solid" instead of "lightened" as the 5.7s are, and being MUCH heavier. If I remember correctly and this is indeed the case, depending on how much heavier it is, that could be costing you some power. As far as the cutout, I gained very little goung from a closed Hooker catback to a cutout, and Jason99T/A posted a dyno sheet about a year or so ago where he only gained ~4 rwhp by loosing the catback, not too bad, IMO.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 07:45 PM
  #22  
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And a better question is how is the car driving now that it's been tuned?
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 07:47 PM
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How old are your AS heads? Are they the "newer" CNC version?
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 07:47 PM
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Have you run it at the track yet??

I've got a very similar setup, and I was somewhat disappointed with my dyno numbers; but I ended up running the numbers in my sig (in average air at best), and that's with ~ 3500 lb raceweight.

Take her to the track and see how she does
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by TA Dave
Carl, you're losing tq with the larger tubes on stock ci. Also the catback in the next restriction, I like the sound of the Hooker, but I'd add a cutout. With a cutout I'd guess your numbers will improve...
Actually, the Hooker is one of the best flowing catbacks out. People hardly see any gains over a cutout... Check this out.. Click Me I dont think a cutout will be worth the price and install
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SPANKY LS1
Why a 6.0 crank? I *think* that I remember something about the 6.0 crank being "solid" instead of "lightened" as the 5.7s are, and being MUCH heavier. If I remember correctly and this is indeed the case, depending on how much heavier it is, that could be costing you some power. As far as the cutout, I gained very little goung from a closed Hooker catback to a cutout, and Jason99T/A posted a dyno sheet about a year or so ago where he only gained ~4 rwhp by loosing the catback, not too bad, IMO.
The 6.0 crank is only heavier by 1 pound, if that. Its been weighed and proven. Yes, it is solid too, but thats in the dead center which adds no rotational mass to the crank. Thats where the extra weight is, I believe.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by silver69camaro
How old are your AS heads? Are they the "newer" CNC version?
Yes, they are the most recent version of his heads. CNC job and all.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:32 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 02bluess
Have you run it at the track yet??

I've got a very similar setup, and I was somewhat disappointed with my dyno numbers; but I ended up running the numbers in my sig (in average air at best), and that's with ~ 3500 lb raceweight.

Take her to the track and see how she does
Im not a track person. You can make a 400 HP car run 10s or it can run 13s with no changes to the motor itsself. Track is all about suspension, gearing, traction, and weather, etc..
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:33 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by TA Dave
And a better question is how is the car driving now that it's been tuned?

It drives no different than before it was tuned. I only picked up some low-mid TQ.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:58 PM
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Your headers are too big. You need 1 3/4" tubes. The 1 7/8" will make more power in a big ci motor. That is probably where your torque is going...
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Country Boy
Actually, the Hooker is one of the best flowing catbacks out. People hardly see any gains over a cutout... Check this out.. Click Me I dont think a cutout will be worth the price and install
You forget that I had the Hooker cat back on the Vert...

But, the higher the HP, the higher the RPM's and the bigger the cam the more the exhaust comes into it...

Like I said the headers are killing your tq, but, interestingly enough your HP is peaking lower than I would expect, especially with bigger primary tubes...
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:06 PM
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I didnt know you had the Hooker catback Youre right about moving more exhaust. I thought about getting a cutout and see what it does, just for ***** and grins, but money is on the extremely tight side now I thought about going back down to a 1 3/4 header, but Im still undecisive about future plans
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:09 PM
  #33  
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I may go 408, and I have those 1 3/4 grotts...

And I can think of some side work for you to make some money too.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:31 PM
  #34  
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Maybe it has something to do with the aftermarket rods, pistons, rings? There may be more friction on the cylinder walls or something. I'm terrified of building a forged shortblock for my car, this damn stocker has impressed the hell out of me.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 07:42 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by gomer
Maybe it has something to do with the aftermarket rods, pistons, rings? There may be more friction on the cylinder walls or something. I'm terrified of building a forged shortblock for my car, this damn stocker has impressed the hell out of me.
John B has a thread about that in IE not too long ago. It seems that all the 440+ cars are running the stock motors still. I dont think Ive seen a forged 346 put out the big numbers yet. Hell, I may just buy a crate LS6 for my next motor
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 09:32 AM
  #36  
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Country Boy,IMO your numbers a REAL and I think there very respectful
Dyno smyno,run the car and enjoy it.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 09:51 AM
  #37  
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Man those numbers are not bad at all, not many people see those kind of numbers down here, a few yes but not many. Grats man, I say thats a solid setup, I would not worry about the numbers too much cause in the end to gain 10-20hp will cost more than its worth.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 09:58 AM
  #38  
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The forged bottom end has heavier pistons and rods vs. stock, which will consume some dynojet power, since it measures acceleration. The Aftermarket rings also probably do have a little more friction than stock. All that get's paid for by the reliability though. Clutch and flywheel weight play a part as well.


I have a set of Jay's S2 5.3's from the same time period, they make good power, but not outstanding. I did have to hand finish one port, that it looked like he missed. I can't say I was overly impressed with the quality, especially after the long wait.

I bought a low mileage LS6/Z06 short block for my project car for $1300, so they are out there.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 09:25 PM
  #39  
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What did you think of the tuning done by Rev Extreme. Did they work w/ WOT only or part throttle too? I have a similar setup (G5X-3, MTI stg II LS-6 heads & 12 bolt w/4.10s). It tends to buck alot at low rpm and uses a ton of gas, but it makes good power. I'm thinking of getting it tuned but not sure by whom. (Norris is an option too)

Seem like you have decent numbers but I would have hoped for more too, after seeing other people dyno so high.

Even if you don't like to run at the track, how else would you know if your car running well. I have a hard time understanding how people put so much into a car and don't even run it once. Just my opinion. A few weeks back (between storms) I let a friend run my car and he ran just over 122 through the traps. Race was just under 3600.
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 09:52 PM
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After tuning, mine still bucks in 1,2,3, and 4th gears and EATS gas like no tomorrow. I dont know if the gas thing is a tuning issue or not. Its only been tuned WOT and your basic stuff like hot start, open loop and such.

I never said I wouldnt run at the track, Im just not a track rat. My car isnt setup for the track, so the ETs mean squat to me. I dont even have a DSL or DRs.
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