g5x3 dyno results...
My car is at or above 14:1 on the dyno and I put down that torque. And those conditions look pretty good to me. 70*, 22%humid., 28.6 in-Hg. Looks pretty good to me. Isn't this close to ideal? This is not a high compression, FI motor. It does not need more than 91. Seems like it needs more fuel, not timing. And again I did say nice HP increase.
Originally Posted by SStolen
It looks like on your last dyno pull, the highest hp pull, that you were only putting down 552 rwtq.
That was the first run not the last. And it was 352, I wish it was what you typed.
Originally Posted by chevysrule94
WOW!!!...What were you doin?? Drifting or somethin?? Thats unbelieveable to destroy both with next to stock HP and only 18K miles??
Bye the way nice dyno numbers. Forgot to put that in my first post.
Originally Posted by BADSZ28
Those #s seem low. Especially torque. I would expect that without headers maybe. Hell my minor bolt-on 02Z put down 361rwtq with 300@2500rpm. The HP increase is great though. 57hp is a nice jump for just a cam swap.
Originally Posted by wait4me
the reason why his torque is so low is, look at the air fuel, its almost 14:1 when it gets richer, the torque starts to go up more, that thing is starving for fuel..
Originally Posted by SStolen
It looks like on your last dyno pull, the highest hp pull, that you were only putting down 552 rwtq.
Originally Posted by Zombie
I live in vegas and have tuned several cam only and h/c cars. The octane comment is ture, but I've never tuned less than 28 degrees on a cam/header setup. Most heads cam cars I do i'm able to get to 29-31 in summer (110+ temps) with ZERO knock. I do remap the IAT spark table so timing is automatically pulled during high temps to prevent knock.
I've gotten a few cam/longtube cars in the 370-380 range on 91 octane. All have cams under 232 i believe.
One of my friends has a 6.0 iron block setup with 11.0:1 comp and a 237/245/112 .590 cam. I've been able to get him to 30 degrees as well with zero knock (getting the daily driving good with a/c and all took some time though). Getting the timing up there is all about knowing what the motor wants and preventing ANY knock from occuring... well 1 degree once and a while is ok.
Cam selection plays a big role in the amount of timing. A vette I tuned had a 228/228/114 i believe. His comp was 11.2:1... with that cam and that compression it was too much for 91 octane. I tuned him and got the car running well, but I had to run the tune fat (like 12.0 a/f) during the tq peak and 12.4 everywhere else (I normally tune 12.7) just to keep the timing at a point where the car would run well. If he swapped to a larger cam with more overlap his setup would run much better. I was only able to get a MAX of 24 degrees on his setup and was down to 21 or so during the tq peak.
I've gotten a few cam/longtube cars in the 370-380 range on 91 octane. All have cams under 232 i believe.
One of my friends has a 6.0 iron block setup with 11.0:1 comp and a 237/245/112 .590 cam. I've been able to get him to 30 degrees as well with zero knock (getting the daily driving good with a/c and all took some time though). Getting the timing up there is all about knowing what the motor wants and preventing ANY knock from occuring... well 1 degree once and a while is ok.
Cam selection plays a big role in the amount of timing. A vette I tuned had a 228/228/114 i believe. His comp was 11.2:1... with that cam and that compression it was too much for 91 octane. I tuned him and got the car running well, but I had to run the tune fat (like 12.0 a/f) during the tq peak and 12.4 everywhere else (I normally tune 12.7) just to keep the timing at a point where the car would run well. If he swapped to a larger cam with more overlap his setup would run much better. I was only able to get a MAX of 24 degrees on his setup and was down to 21 or so during the tq peak.
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Originally Posted by BADSZ28
My car is at or above 14:1 on the dyno and I put down that torque. And those conditions look pretty good to me. 70*, 22%humid., 28.6 in-Hg. Looks pretty good to me. Isn't this close to ideal? This is not a high compression, FI motor. It does not need more than 91. Seems like it needs more fuel, not timing. And again I did say nice HP increase.
Our goal is to produce daily drivable cars that dont require maintenence. My car makes 443 rwhp with stock heads, stock bottom end and 4.11 gears... but I also get a retune every time the temps change drastically to keep the numbers that way. Not everyone wants to do that nor have to wonder if that bad tank of gas that AZ is known for will hit the car... then BOOM.
Not trying to flame you, just trying to help you understand that not everyone out there is trying to extract every little horsepower from their car at all times... if we had chicagos weather you can bet we would ALL be 20-30 horsepower higher... but proven fact taking a chicago car here will drop AT LEAST 1/2 second in the 1/4 and drop about 20 or so at the wheels.
Originally Posted by SSOnYourSix
it has plenty of fuel and its on a perfect tune... its only running 24 degrees of timing as we dont do agressive tunes unless requested...
rich is safer than lean, and 14.1 is lean, that in my eyes is more dangerous than running a little more to the richer side, looking at the three runs you can see my point, the richer it gets the more torque it is making, 14.1 is not safe in my eyes... ask anyone else around that knows anything.. some people dont even like going as high as 13.0 to be a safe tune, they think that is way to lean.. 12.9 is the highest i would ever go, and on a turbo or super charged car the highest i would ever go would be a 12.2 and thats pushing it..
another thing, if you are worried about fueling and timing issues in the summer, there are plenty of tables that take care of that issue in the computer so you dont have to worry about switching tunes all the time..
Originally Posted by wait4me
rich is safer than lean, and 14.1 is lean, that in my eyes is more dangerous than running a little more to the richer side, looking at the three runs you can see my point, the richer it gets the more torque it is making, 14.1 is not safe in my eyes... ask anyone else around that knows anything.. some people dont even like going as high as 13.0 to be a safe tune, they think that is way to lean.. 12.9 is the highest i would ever go, and on a turbo or super charged car the highest i would ever go would be a 12.2 and thats pushing it..
Originally Posted by wait4me
another thing, if you are worried about fueling and timing issues in the summer, there are plenty of tables that take care of that issue in the computer so you dont have to worry about switching tunes all the time..
Bottom line is, I am extremely happy with the performance of the car. She has no problem finding idle, including cold starts, I can run the A/C full blast and she doesn't even flinch. No stalling at lights, nothing. In fact, in day to day driving the only way I even know there is a cam there is at idle and when I press the go pedal. 
Power band feels awesome, no dead spots, no waiting for power, and she pulls like a raped ape all the way to the 6800 rpm redline. And that is what matters to me, and if I had to sacrifice a couple of hp numbers to get a reliable tune (especially considering that she is my daily driver) I will gladly give up a few ponies according to a dyno sheet.
Power band feels awesome, no dead spots, no waiting for power, and she pulls like a raped ape all the way to the 6800 rpm redline. And that is what matters to me, and if I had to sacrifice a couple of hp numbers to get a reliable tune (especially considering that she is my daily driver) I will gladly give up a few ponies according to a dyno sheet.
i dont think you understand what i am saying, your tune at 14.1 isnt considered a safe tune.. 12.8 is considered a safe tune, anything leaner is not.. your "14.1" is leaner than a 12.8 therefore, is not safe.. normal drivability is not affected by pe mode, and the petable is just not set up correctly. that is all im saying, this is my last post on this, jes
Originally Posted by wait4me
i dont think you understand what i am saying, your tune at 14.1 isnt considered a safe tune.. 12.8 is considered a safe tune, anything leaner is not.. your "14.1" is leaner than a 12.8 therefore, is not safe.. normal drivability is not affected by pe mode, and the petable is just not set up correctly. that is all im saying, this is my last post on this, jes
Last edited by Nic00Z28M6; Dec 24, 2004 at 05:44 PM.
Originally Posted by wait4me
rich is safer than lean, and 14.1 is lean, that in my eyes is more dangerous than running a little more to the richer side, looking at the three runs you can see my point, the richer it gets the more torque it is making, 14.1 is not safe in my eyes... ask anyone else around that knows anything.. some people dont even like going as high as 13.0 to be a safe tune, they think that is way to lean.. 12.9 is the highest i would ever go, and on a turbo or super charged car the highest i would ever go would be a 12.2 and thats pushing it..
Originally Posted by tomss99
haha too big of a cam on stock head cars i guess.... its all about under the curve woohooo
Go home dude, ur lame comments have impressed no one
