How Much Does Wheels/Gear Cost You?
hell yeah. i can drive down the road now and accelerate in 4th gear without the trans downshifting of converter unlocking. drivability is way better.
now, about the .1 gain. there are a couple of things to take into consideration. stock motor and having to shift into 4th. stock motor peaks out at 6100ish. so, i have to rev past peak to try and delay the shift into 4th as much as possible. that and 4th gear dragging the motor down is what's costing me so ET.
but, i bought for the end result. why buy 3.73 now, when i'll need 4.10 once i do heads and cam. why buy twice. i take the hit now to spend less money down the road.
now, about the .1 gain. there are a couple of things to take into consideration. stock motor and having to shift into 4th. stock motor peaks out at 6100ish. so, i have to rev past peak to try and delay the shift into 4th as much as possible. that and 4th gear dragging the motor down is what's costing me so ET.
but, i bought for the end result. why buy 3.73 now, when i'll need 4.10 once i do heads and cam. why buy twice. i take the hit now to spend less money down the road.
now, let's look at how a trans affects rear gear ratio. here's a chart for auto trans.
auto -------- 3.23 ----- 4.10
1st 3.06 ---- 9.88 ---- 12.54
2nd 1.62 ---- 5.23 ----- 6.64
3rd 1.00 ---- 3.23 ----- 4.10
4th 0.70 ---- 2.26 ----- 2.87
you can see what you effective rear gear ratio is. the whole 10 speed bike thing. you can come out of the hole WAY quicker with a 12.54 gear than a 9.88 gear.
auto -------- 3.23 ----- 4.10
1st 3.06 ---- 9.88 ---- 12.54
2nd 1.62 ---- 5.23 ----- 6.64
3rd 1.00 ---- 3.23 ----- 4.10
4th 0.70 ---- 2.26 ----- 2.87
you can see what you effective rear gear ratio is. the whole 10 speed bike thing. you can come out of the hole WAY quicker with a 12.54 gear than a 9.88 gear.
Last edited by mrr23; Aug 16, 2005 at 09:13 PM.
The thing is that I trap around 110mph with Lid and catback now and I shift into 4th right before the end of 1/4mi. With 4.10s I will have to shift into 5th right at 112mph and 112mph will be achieved with just LTs and a new Y pipe or true duals, now I plan on adding 100-150 shot of nitrous and shifting into 5th will be a must. And like you said, car is dragging in 4th gear in your auto, so it should do the same in 5th gear for me. Don't know if it's going to be worth it for the nitrous setup.
Once I add a cam it will be a different story, I could raise the rev limiter to 6500-6700rpm and the redline would be at 122-125mph in 4th gear and with 150shot I don't think I will have to shift into 5th.
Once I add a cam it will be a different story, I could raise the rev limiter to 6500-6700rpm and the redline would be at 122-125mph in 4th gear and with 150shot I don't think I will have to shift into 5th.
when you search this forum and many others, you'll notice the general concensus is 4.10 with a M6 is the key ratio to have. right now, you are barely using your 4th gear (1:1) as it is.
your kinda like an auto with 2.73 gears. shifting into 3rd (1:1) right before the traps.
your kinda like an auto with 2.73 gears. shifting into 3rd (1:1) right before the traps.
I know that I'm not using my 4th gear at all, but all I have is a LID and a catback. Few more mods and 4.10s and I will run out of 4th gear.
What do usually cars with 530-560whp trap at?
What do usually cars with 530-560whp trap at?
well, all i can tell you is i have 460rwhp and i trap 117 with the yank converter. and and same mph after i added the 4.10 gears. i did 121 with the stock converter and 3.23 gears.
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Originally Posted by mrr23
well i can give you the results of 3.23 with 275/40-17 to 4.10 gears. wheels will depend on weight. and overall tire diameter.
Right. It is nice just to know what you have at the flywheel round-about though. So going from 323 to 373's, probably lost 10 to the wheels. I would say the wheels cost be around 5-10 also?
I ended up pushing 405 rwhp unlocked through the big stall, gears, and 19's...
The car has changed to this:
Heads/Cam/Induction:
TEA Stage 1.5 5.3 Heads Milled 0.010
Comp Cams XE 228/230/571/573 LSA 112
85mm Lid
85mm Maf
Rollmaster Double Timing Chain
Ported Oil Pump
Fast 90mm Intake
Nick Williams 90mm TB
MSD 8.5 mm Wires w/ TR55 Plugs
0.045 Cometics Head Gaskets
Kooks 1 3/4 Stainless Steel Race Headers
Kooks Y Pipe
4200/2.35 STR Stall
B&M Deep Tranny Pan
Motive 373's/TA Girdle/Stud Kit
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
Koni SA's
35 mm Front/22 mm Rear Sway Bars
Single Adjustable LCA's
Single Adjustable Panhard Bar
Comp 7.4 Hardened Pushrods
ASP Under Drive Crank Pulley
SLP Dual/Dual Catback Exhaust
Flowtech Cutout with McCord Power Plate
K&N Air Filter
Fast Toys Ram Air
B&M 24K Cooler (Mounted under frontend)
BMR SFC's,
BMR STB
Tunnel Brace
The car has changed to this:
Heads/Cam/Induction:
TEA Stage 1.5 5.3 Heads Milled 0.010
Comp Cams XE 228/230/571/573 LSA 112
85mm Lid
85mm Maf
Rollmaster Double Timing Chain
Ported Oil Pump
Fast 90mm Intake
Nick Williams 90mm TB
MSD 8.5 mm Wires w/ TR55 Plugs
0.045 Cometics Head Gaskets
Kooks 1 3/4 Stainless Steel Race Headers
Kooks Y Pipe
4200/2.35 STR Stall
B&M Deep Tranny Pan
Motive 373's/TA Girdle/Stud Kit
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets
Koni SA's
35 mm Front/22 mm Rear Sway Bars
Single Adjustable LCA's
Single Adjustable Panhard Bar
Comp 7.4 Hardened Pushrods
ASP Under Drive Crank Pulley
SLP Dual/Dual Catback Exhaust
Flowtech Cutout with McCord Power Plate
K&N Air Filter
Fast Toys Ram Air
B&M 24K Cooler (Mounted under frontend)
BMR SFC's,
BMR STB
Tunnel Brace
Originally Posted by davered00ss
I wish I stayed with the 3.42's. I don't like the 4.10's. Harder to hook now and like said above and topping out the rev limiter in the 1/4. 
Extend your rev-limiter if your valvetrain and bottom end allow it.