383 Engine Dyno Results (graphs included)
09-28-2005, 08:51 AM
#63
Originally Posted by ta_silver_bullet
Hey Tony what is the avg. price on a set of 205's and how long is the wait right now? just curious becasue i will be in the market fairly soon.
-Chris
-Chris
09-29-2005, 09:39 AM
#64
8 Sec Tuner
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
The Jesel's Mohawks, which are probably the best on the market, come in at a healthy $1300-$1400. Don't ask how I know. 
Phil
Phil
09-29-2005, 11:40 AM
#65
Originally Posted by SideStep
How much do shaftmount rockers cost for LS1s???
$$$
$$$
Not a whole lot more than their studmount LS1 kit, but they will require spacers and cylinder head modifications as I have previously mentioned.
Tony M.
10-04-2005, 11:47 PM
#66
since i've been asked by a few people about the 346 vs 383 test 1 i figured i'd post up for everybody. the only mechanical difference between these overlays's is the 4" stroke. the 383 also has about .4 less of a point of compression. look at the under the tq gain 
01-07-2007, 05:35 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by gollum
A picture of Comp lifters with rev-kit springs.
Who makes that? Is it Comp? I heard ARE used to make them, but stopped. I heard DRE made them, but I think they're out of business, so who's is it?
01-07-2007, 05:36 PM
#70
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Originally Posted by gollum
A picture of Comp lifters with rev-kit springs.
Who makes that? Is it Comp? I heard ARE used to make them, but stopped. I heard DRE made them, but I think they're out of business, so who's is it?
04-19-2007, 09:39 AM
#71
Okay, I thought I'd go ahead and bring this thread back from the dead, since my old/new setup is very comparable to Tony's testing listed here.
-------------------------------------------------
My setup last year was virtually the same as Test #1:
383 Forged Block,
AFR 205 Heads (standard 66cc chambers)
with Stock GM Gasket,
TR 224/224 114 cam,
Stock GM 1.7 rocker arms,
Stock Balancer,
Stock LS6 Intake/TB,
Tuned.
Final Results: 431 rwhp / 428 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
My feelings on the above setup are as Tony described, great, smooth idle, powerful curve, the car was a sleeper!
-------------------------------------------------
This past winter I wanted more, so I called Tony for a cam recommendation, and he highly recommended the 234/238 114, just as he used in Test #2.
While in Tony's test, he only changed the cam from the 224/228 to the 234/238, I upgraded a 'few' other parts:
234/238 114 cam,
ASP 25% Underdrive Pulley,
FAST 90/NW90,
Cutout installed & dynoed open,
Tuned.
Final results: 467 rwhp / 439 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
-------------------------------------------------
I gained + 36rwhp / + 11 rwtq
The car is no longer a sleeper, but It definitely is very streetable and a great daily driver!
Start-up for the 1st 20 seconds is touchy, it might even stall, but after that it idles great.
I overlayed my 2 graphs to compare the curves and see where I picked up power and where/if I lost any low end power or not.
Rear Wheel HP & Torque:
From 1,000rpms to 4,500rpms my curves are slightly less!
I'd say its about a 2-3 drop.
But from 4,500rpms to 6,500 my curve keep on going.
It keeps pulling the extra power upto 6,000rpms before leveling off then dropping.
-------------------------------------------------
My setup last year was virtually the same as Test #1:
383 Forged Block,
AFR 205 Heads (standard 66cc chambers)
with Stock GM Gasket,
TR 224/224 114 cam,
Stock GM 1.7 rocker arms,
Stock Balancer,
Stock LS6 Intake/TB,
Tuned.
Final Results: 431 rwhp / 428 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
My feelings on the above setup are as Tony described, great, smooth idle, powerful curve, the car was a sleeper!
-------------------------------------------------
This past winter I wanted more, so I called Tony for a cam recommendation, and he highly recommended the 234/238 114, just as he used in Test #2.
While in Tony's test, he only changed the cam from the 224/228 to the 234/238, I upgraded a 'few' other parts:
234/238 114 cam,
ASP 25% Underdrive Pulley,
FAST 90/NW90,
Cutout installed & dynoed open,
Tuned.
Final results: 467 rwhp / 439 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
-------------------------------------------------
I gained + 36rwhp / + 11 rwtq
The car is no longer a sleeper, but It definitely is very streetable and a great daily driver!
Start-up for the 1st 20 seconds is touchy, it might even stall, but after that it idles great.
I overlayed my 2 graphs to compare the curves and see where I picked up power and where/if I lost any low end power or not.
Rear Wheel HP & Torque:
From 1,000rpms to 4,500rpms my curves are slightly less!
I'd say its about a 2-3 drop.
But from 4,500rpms to 6,500 my curve keep on going.
It keeps pulling the extra power upto 6,000rpms before leveling off then dropping.
Last edited by Michael02hawk; 04-19-2007 at 10:50 AM.
04-20-2007, 06:23 AM
#72
Originally Posted by Michael02hawk
Okay, I thought I'd go ahead and bring this thread back from the dead, since my old/new setup is very comparable to Tony's testing listed here.
-------------------------------------------------
My setup last year was virtually the same as Test #1:
383 Forged Block,
AFR 205 Heads (standard 66cc chambers)
with Stock GM Gasket,
TR 224/224 114 cam,
Stock GM 1.7 rocker arms,
Stock Balancer,
Stock LS6 Intake/TB,
Tuned.
Final Results: 431 rwhp / 428 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
My feelings on the above setup are as Tony described, great, smooth idle, powerful curve, the car was a sleeper!
-------------------------------------------------
This past winter I wanted more, so I called Tony for a cam recommendation, and he highly recommended the 234/238 114, just as he used in Test #2.
While in Tony's test, he only changed the cam from the 224/228 to the 234/238, I upgraded a 'few' other parts:
234/238 114 cam,
ASP 25% Underdrive Pulley,
FAST 90/NW90,
Cutout installed & dynoed open,
Tuned.
Final results: 467 rwhp / 439 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
-------------------------------------------------
I gained + 36rwhp / + 11 rwtq
The car is no longer a sleeper, but It definitely is very streetable and a great daily driver!
Start-up for the 1st 20 seconds is touchy, it might even stall, but after that it idles great.
I overlayed my 2 graphs to compare the curves and see where I picked up power and where/if I lost any low end power or not.
Rear Wheel HP & Torque:
From 1,000rpms to 4,500rpms my curves are slightly less!
I'd say its about a 2-3 drop.
But from 4,500rpms to 6,500 my curve keep on going.
It keeps pulling the extra power upto 6,000rpms before leveling off then dropping.
-------------------------------------------------
My setup last year was virtually the same as Test #1:
383 Forged Block,
AFR 205 Heads (standard 66cc chambers)
with Stock GM Gasket,
TR 224/224 114 cam,
Stock GM 1.7 rocker arms,
Stock Balancer,
Stock LS6 Intake/TB,
Tuned.
Final Results: 431 rwhp / 428 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
My feelings on the above setup are as Tony described, great, smooth idle, powerful curve, the car was a sleeper!
-------------------------------------------------
This past winter I wanted more, so I called Tony for a cam recommendation, and he highly recommended the 234/238 114, just as he used in Test #2.
While in Tony's test, he only changed the cam from the 224/228 to the 234/238, I upgraded a 'few' other parts:
234/238 114 cam,
ASP 25% Underdrive Pulley,
FAST 90/NW90,
Cutout installed & dynoed open,
Tuned.
Final results: 467 rwhp / 439 rwtq
(Tony's number were calculated at the flywheel, mine are at the rear wheels)
-------------------------------------------------
I gained + 36rwhp / + 11 rwtq
The car is no longer a sleeper, but It definitely is very streetable and a great daily driver!
Start-up for the 1st 20 seconds is touchy, it might even stall, but after that it idles great.
I overlayed my 2 graphs to compare the curves and see where I picked up power and where/if I lost any low end power or not.
Rear Wheel HP & Torque:
From 1,000rpms to 4,500rpms my curves are slightly less!
I'd say its about a 2-3 drop.
But from 4,500rpms to 6,500 my curve keep on going.
It keeps pulling the extra power upto 6,000rpms before leveling off then dropping.
By my calculations your DCR is only 7.91 (static = 10.7ish), assuming you are .005 out of the hole, 66cc chambers, +1 degree of advance (???) and you are using a .045 head-gasket... If this is true you are leaving some power on the table... If you want that TQ line to be greater than before at every rpm mill those heads down.... .024 mill to a 62cc chamber would put your (assuming same gaskets and etc. from above) DCR at approx. 8.25 and makes your static 11.22. OBVIOUSLY, you have to check to see if that cam will clear the P to V...
I do not believe your numbers are bad... just that there is some power left on the table...
04-20-2007, 08:39 AM
#73
Originally Posted by SideStep
By my calculations your DCR is only 7.91 (static = 10.7ish), assuming you are .005 out of the hole, 66cc chambers, +1 degree of advance (???) and you are using a .045 head-gasket... If this is true you are leaving some power on the table... If you want that TQ line to be greater than before at every rpm mill those heads down.... .024 mill to a 62cc chamber would put your (assuming same gaskets and etc. from above) DCR at approx. 8.25 and makes your static 11.22. OBVIOUSLY, you have to check to see if that cam will clear the P to V...
I do not believe your numbers are bad... just that there is some power left on the table...
I do not believe your numbers are bad... just that there is some power left on the table...
Yes, I do know there is some more power left to be had my milling these heads down some. I did not want to remove the heads this year, only a change to a larger cam.
But next year I do want to go ahead, get the heads removed, milled & ported.
As you pointed out, how much can I go. We measured PTV clearance when this cam was installed: 0.095 / 0.190 with a soft spring, which should be about 0.110 / 0.205 actual.
That being the case, still using the stock GM gasket, how much do you think I could safely mill the heads down?
- Mike
04-20-2007, 09:31 AM
#74
Originally Posted by Michael02hawk
I'm glad you brought up the subject of milling my heads!
Yes, I do know there is some more power left to be had my milling these heads down some. I did not want to remove the heads this year, only a change to a larger cam.
But next year I do want to go ahead, get the heads removed, milled & ported.
As you pointed out, how much can I go. We measured PTV clearance when this cam was installed: 0.095 / 0.190 with a soft spring, which should be about 0.110 / 0.205 actual.
That being the case, still using the stock GM gasket, how much do you think I could safely mill the heads down?
- Mike
Yes, I do know there is some more power left to be had my milling these heads down some. I did not want to remove the heads this year, only a change to a larger cam.
But next year I do want to go ahead, get the heads removed, milled & ported.
As you pointed out, how much can I go. We measured PTV clearance when this cam was installed: 0.095 / 0.190 with a soft spring, which should be about 0.110 / 0.205 actual.
That being the case, still using the stock GM gasket, how much do you think I could safely mill the heads down?
- Mike
IF!!! "0.110" is correct (measure twice, cut once) you should have no problems at all milling .024, which should make your heads 62cc. Which GM head-gasket are you using??? GM Composite or GM MLS... If I remember correctly they are .054 and .06 respectively, compressed thickness....
If you use the GM MLS gasket your DCR will be 8 and your static will be 10.84ish, assuming heads are 62cc
Last edited by SideStep; 04-20-2007 at 09:45 AM.
04-20-2007, 09:57 AM
#75
Originally Posted by SideStep
IF!!! "0.110" is correct (measure twice, cut once) you should have no problems at all milling .024, which should make your heads 62cc. Which GM head-gasket are you using??? GM Composite or GM MLS... If I remember correctly they are .054 and .06 respectively, compressed thickness....
If you use the GM MLS gasket your DCR will be 8 and your static will be 10.84ish, assuming heads are 62cc
If you use the GM MLS gasket your DCR will be 8 and your static will be 10.84ish, assuming heads are 62cc
But when the heads come off, I'll be needing new gaskets and can select a different gasket if one is better than the other.
04-20-2007, 09:40 PM
#76
Originally Posted by Michael02hawk
I'm using GM Part #12589226, I just looked it up and it seems to be the MLS gasket.
But when the heads come off, I'll be needing new gaskets and can select a different gasket if one is better than the other.
But when the heads come off, I'll be needing new gaskets and can select a different gasket if one is better than the other.
If you are currently at .110 on the intake, then you mill .024 (for example) you are down to .086 on the intake... this basically means you will be using the same GM MLS gasket... I would not (just my opinion) go closer...
Good Luck,
