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Old Dec 9, 2005 | 11:23 PM
  #21  
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[QUOTE=300bhp/ton]
In all reality I doubt very much that there are any STOCK INTERNAL non power adder LS1 producing much more than 400bhp at the engine. which would put an Fbody at about ~350-360rwhp TOPS.QUOTE]

I put down 343hp/364tq with the stock stall, and still have to do a ported throttle body, underdrive pulley, and maybe true duals. And its said A-4's lose 15%-20% in the drivetrain so at 15% I have about 394hp at the crank and at 20% I have about 411hp at the crank.

Ps- If you have aol you can view my dyno graph in my signature link.

Blackbird- As of gains I would guess you might gain another 10hp or so over your shorties. But the way you sit I wouldn't think you would have 350 at the wheels right now. But who knows till you dyno?
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 07:54 AM
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Its very possible you are pretty close to 340 RWHP. One of my best friends put down 336 in his 02 SS M6 with just a Magnaflow catback and a lid. Get her dynoed once the LTs are put in. BTW, SWEET RIDE
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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if he has an ported TB, mass air, shorty headers, for sure he could be doing 350rwph. Cmon guys, we have seen some big numbers out of the 01-02 cars with just a lid/catback. this guy has more than that, so how is 340-350 out of range
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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LMAO grammar much?!
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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[QUOTE=DevonsZ]
Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
In all reality I doubt very much that there are any STOCK INTERNAL non power adder LS1 producing much more than 400bhp at the engine. which would put an Fbody at about ~350-360rwhp TOPS.QUOTE]

I put down 343hp/364tq with the stock stall, and still have to do a ported throttle body, underdrive pulley, and maybe true duals. And its said A-4's lose 15%-20% in the drivetrain so at 15% I have about 394hp at the crank and at 20% I have about 411hp at the crank.
Nice numbers, but don't forget diminishing returns. At the end of the day there is only so much BHP bolt ons will generate before the internals become the restriction.

So adding X mod to a stock engine will generaill yield very good results, but on a already modified engine you will, as a rule get a lower gain.

Also, remember dyno's are a guide. What sort of dyno was it on? (Mustang, Dynojet, DD), and SAE or STD staandard plus corrections and spike smoothing.

In all reality, even the best rwhp dyno numbers normally need 10rwhp knocking off to make them more comparable with SAE Net figures (manufactured claimed numbers).
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 05:42 PM
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The #'s were on a DynoJet and they are corrected. I understaind and agree with you that normally when you already have mods that adding others wont be as effective as putting the same part on a stock motor numbers wise. I was just posting my numbers to show 400hp at the crank can and is often done with boltons. Thats all.
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbird-TA
well i never said 380rwhp.. i said 340rwhp 350rwhp at the most
The most logical point your not getting ,is that you out-drove the other cars.

Congrats on being a good driver.
You can out drive a higher rwhp car,if you have the skills.
Sounds like you have those skills,Congrats.
Dave
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Old Dec 10, 2005 | 09:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by redsscamaroboy
The most logical point your not getting ,is that you out-drove the other cars.

Congrats on being a good driver.
You can out drive a higher rwhp car,if you have the skills.
Sounds like you have those skills,Congrats.
Dave
He really dont' just got lucky cause of my shity shifter,But we can bicth and moan all day long about it, till there is a video posted' no one can really talk ..
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 03:52 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by DevonsZ
The #'s were on a DynoJet and they are corrected. I understaind and agree with you that normally when you already have mods that adding others wont be as effective as putting the same part on a stock motor numbers wise. I was just posting my numbers to show 400hp at the crank can and is often done with boltons. Thats all.
I'm not dissin your numbers. They nice, as is your car of course

But a Dynojet reads 'compartivly' high because it is non-load bearing. So to directly compare you would either need to 'adjust' your number to match the stock number, or adjust the stock to match the relative scale that the Dynojet uses.

Dynojet's tend to dyno about 20rwhp higher than a Mustang dyno. So knock 20-25rwhp off of your PEAK and that would be nearer to the mark.

So that would make a 'realistic' number at the rear wheels to be 323rwhp.

with 15% loss = 380bhp
with 18% loss = 393bhp

So it's certainly pretty close, probably about 388-390bhp +-

Some pretty stout numbers indeed
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Old Dec 11, 2005 | 06:42 PM
  #30  
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300bhp/ton: Thanks. I didnt think you were putting my numbers down I was just posting up that they were corrected. Sorry if I came across wrong.

Looks like you have a clean ride yourself in those pics.

Blackbird-ta: Let us know some #'s after you get that thing on some rollers.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 09:01 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 98SuperSport
what you beat on the street has a lot to do with power jackass, and gearing, weight, drivers. blackbird
Stall converter? My friend has a full bolt-on z28 and can hang with me dead even 0-60 if not take me, just because of his stall and I'm making atleast 80more rwhp than he is.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 11:48 AM
  #32  
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Quote, "But a Dynojet reads 'compartivly' high because it is non-load bearing. "

Disagree, when you add load to any dyno that has that capability, they always read higher. The more load you add the higher they read.

This thread reminds me of the guy who showed up to dyno his fairly stock older 350 Camaro with just a huge add-on carb and I asked him, "how much power are you expecting?" He quickly replied with a big smile, "around 550 HP." I had to ask, "how did you come up with that number? He said, "because I beat a guy last night on Dodge steet who said he had 500." Another long hour at the dyno shop.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 05:03 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dynocar
Quote, "But a Dynojet reads 'compartivly' high because it is non-load bearing. "

Disagree, when you add load to any dyno that has that capability, they always read higher. The more load you add the higher they read.

This thread reminds me of the guy who showed up to dyno his fairly stock older 350 Camaro with just a huge add-on carb and I asked him, "how much power are you expecting?" He quickly replied with a big smile, "around 550 HP." I had to ask, "how did you come up with that number? He said, "because I beat a guy last night on Dodge steet who said he had 500." Another long hour at the dyno shop.
That would be comparitivly high compared to SAE Net such as quoted by manufacturers. Q.E.D.
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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I put up 335 on a Mustang, and have since added a few things. On a DJ it'd probably be 350 easy, especially after a good tune. I have an SLP Predator tune, and it's rich down low...
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by FUN LS1
I put up 335 on a Mustang, and have since added a few things. On a DJ it'd probably be 350 easy, especially after a good tune. I have an SLP Predator tune, and it's rich down low...

Added a few things? What exactly did you have when you dyno'd 335 rwhp? I say good luck to anyone hoping to nail 350(legitimate)rwhp without longtubes!
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Old Apr 14, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
Added a few things? What exactly did you have when you dyno'd 335 rwhp? I say good luck to anyone hoping to nail 350(legitimate)rwhp without longtubes!
Doh! How did I miss the part about no LT's?! Now that would make 350 a challenge...

I added a Smooth Bellows and 4.10's after the last Dyno. I'm hoping I can still hit 350s with a pulley and a good tune. (But I do have LT's) Even if it's 340s I'll be happy with that as the bolt-on baseline before Heads\Cam\Intake swap, 'cause it makes my goal of 435 rwhp N/A look reachable with the swap. Right now the plan is hand-ported LS1 heads, TSP 233/239 112+4, Fast 90/NW90.
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