TR220, two dynos, two tunes
Thats just what works best with my car. I'm at 26 degrees timing with a 12.8 afr If I try to change it the car loses power. I would add more fuel if it was me and then add timing if need. But ever car is different. I would just try it and see if it would add a few hp.
Originally Posted by rktsled
Thats just what works best with my car. I'm at 26 degrees timing with a 12.8 afr If I try to change it the car loses power. I would add more fuel if it was me and then add timing if need. But ever car is different. I would just try it and see if it would add a few hp.
Just making a point.I thought the highest dyno hp would be the fastest until we spent a ton of time at the track. The results were very surprising.
I can't tell you that. because I haven't had it to the track after the tune. was tuned 3 week ago. We Just got the car running right. I already got your point. I had it really close but had 6 degrees to much timing. I even backed it of to about 24 degrees and ran like a dog. I don't go to the track but once a month. All i know is my low track light has never come on and stayed on though 3 gears and after the tune it does. I was just trying to help the guy out is all. Not to have someone that knows it all jump my case.
Originally Posted by rktsled
I can't tell you that. because I haven't had it to the track after the tune. was tuned 3 week ago. We Just got the car running right. I already got your point. I had it really close but had 6 degrees to much timing. I even backed it of to about 24 degrees and ran like a dog. I don't go to the track but once a month. All i know is my low track light has never come on and stayed on though 3 gears and after the tune it does. I was just trying to help the guy out is all. Not to have someone that knows it all jump my case.
Sorry for the hijack.All that matter's is that the car is running good
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 627
Likes: 4
From: Miami, FL
Hello,
Nice numbers. A few questions if you do not mind.
1. Is this the 112 or 114 LSA cam?
2. Is it installed with 4deg advance?
3. Should it not make power above 6000rpm?
4. Is there noticeable lope at ideal?(what rpm idle 800?)
Nice numbers. A few questions if you do not mind.
1. Is this the 112 or 114 LSA cam?
2. Is it installed with 4deg advance?
3. Should it not make power above 6000rpm?
4. Is there noticeable lope at ideal?(what rpm idle 800?)
Last edited by Felix C; Dec 26, 2006 at 12:20 PM. Reason: format
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Well the power of search has resurrected this old thread of mine I see.
The main thing I learned and wanted to share my experience about was exactly what slowhawk noted: That pretty much sums it up. The difference in idle quality, driveability and feel of power was night and day between the two tunes.
The specs are 220/220 551/551 on a 112 LSA. I wanted the 112 LSA cam to keep my low end grunt, and it has delivered that. I installed it straight up with no advance.
There is a noticeable lope at idle, but only to people who know about such things. Your wife, grandma or dentist will never notice. It idles at stock rpm 750?, it is stored for winter right now or I would check.
The cam peaked at about 5800. I believe this is typical for a cam with similar specs.
All in all this has been a good street cam for me. I would not go much bigger in a daily driver myself, although many have. I have put over 20k on the car with this setup and have been pleased.
The main thing I learned and wanted to share my experience about was exactly what slowhawk noted:
Looks like you learned a lesson about tuner's. Showing that the "dyno" #'s are pretty much the same but you feel the difference in the tune. The first shop didn't know how to tune idle,midrange,throttle response and could only do WOT timing/A/f. The second shop did the tune correct which is why the car feels so much better. I'm expecting that the 220 Cam idle's/drives pretty much like a stock car except a big improvement in throttle response and power
The specs are 220/220 551/551 on a 112 LSA. I wanted the 112 LSA cam to keep my low end grunt, and it has delivered that. I installed it straight up with no advance.
There is a noticeable lope at idle, but only to people who know about such things. Your wife, grandma or dentist will never notice. It idles at stock rpm 750?, it is stored for winter right now or I would check.
The cam peaked at about 5800. I believe this is typical for a cam with similar specs.
All in all this has been a good street cam for me. I would not go much bigger in a daily driver myself, although many have. I have put over 20k on the car with this setup and have been pleased.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
The first dyno may not have used SAE correction. If true, you cannot compare numbers if improperly operated, even on the same dyno two days apart. It appears that tne second dyno did. The close numbers between the two dynos could be coincidental.
On dynos that you cannot simulate actual load to an engine, you can tune more lean with more ign timing advance. However, when you take it to the track you may have to retune for optimum performance. We have often demonstrated that on our dyno by turning the load control off to simulate an inertia dyno, tuning the vehicle for that ragged edge, then turning on the vehicle simulation load and watching the power decrease dramatically due to knock retard, etc. Good DJ operators are aware of this and try to compensate after getting good numbers.
On dynos that you cannot simulate actual load to an engine, you can tune more lean with more ign timing advance. However, when you take it to the track you may have to retune for optimum performance. We have often demonstrated that on our dyno by turning the load control off to simulate an inertia dyno, tuning the vehicle for that ragged edge, then turning on the vehicle simulation load and watching the power decrease dramatically due to knock retard, etc. Good DJ operators are aware of this and try to compensate after getting good numbers.
Last edited by dynocar; Dec 27, 2006 at 04:06 AM.
