I am currently trying to figure out if it is possible to make my 02 ws6 reach 400 rwhp with bolt ons? i have tried to search about this but there are such mixed reviews that I dont konw who to belive. I am a m6 and plan on gettin nitto NT01's. current mods in sig. Jus wanted to know if you guys think its possible and if so what would i need to do to try and accomplish this, aside from h/c or FI. thanks

seth

 

Most people don't get to 400 with bolt-ons and a cam.

 

nope u can hope for 370 MAX

 

its gonna take a set of fully ported polished heads that slightly raise the compression a tenth or so. then pending emissions LT's, Ud pulley, Hp tune, ported tb, coolant bypass, and 220+ duration lift .551+ @.050 camshaft, and a freeflowing catback. To skip all these steps add A bottle of NOS 125 shot should do it.

 

Not happening.

 

well there goes my dream...gone with the wind....

 

in a 6 speed car just slap a TR224 cam in there with all the bolt ons. they make around 400 rwhp. you dont need ported heads and all. lots of guys do this cam only

 

well honestly i am planning on doing H/C but i was hoping to squeeze all i could out of just bolt ons....i was hoping to get alot more then 450 out of a H/C setup but I havent done much research on cams and head b/c i dont understand much about them but I was hoping for alot more then 450 rwhp from both heads and a cam ....not mild...very aggressive i might add

 

Yeah I don't know what you guys are talking about. 400rwhp is very attainable with full bolt-ons and a cam. With a 224 cam 390rwhp is very possible. There are also alot of guys running f13 or similar cams with bolt ons and are at 400rwhp. These are 6spd cars of course, but your dream is not shattered.

If you plan on going h/c, then don't go for the biggest cam just to get you to 400rwhp. PLAN. Picking the right h/c combo will net you well over 400rwhp.

 

He wanted 400 with just bolt-ons and no cam.

 

if you want 450+ rwhp with heads and cam its not that hard really with the right combo

 

Ok, I read it a little wrong. But you said most people don't get to 400rwhp with bolt ons and a cam and that's what I was saying is wrong. Atleast from what I've read and if it's an m6.

 

Well I shouldnt have been that vague on my cam choice. Honestly i havent even begun to look into heads and cam but i have read that picking a good match will net more then jus a huge cam. I would love to save up for a heads cam setup and I do want a very aggressive package so hopefully with most of the major bolt ons plus H/C I could be at around 450 or +.....also although this would start to get off topic for the external section where should i start looking as far as good aggressive H/C setups. and what would i be looking at for total cost...parts and install

thanks

seth

 

if u have any mechanical ability, i would say read through the steps in write ups and see if you are comfortable doing it your self. its pretty easy to do honestly. i just did my whole head and cam build up with supporting mods (excluding all the bolt ons but including an ls6 intake) for aroudn 3000 bucks. that includes fuel pump, injectors, heads assembled, cam, pushrods, timing chain, oil pump, gaskets, bolts, and some suspension.

 

Take a look at futural sports. Also, search for a guy on here named patrick g, or something like that I think. He has done several combos and has great success with all of them. He would be a good person to talk to about picking the right h/c combos.

 

Yeah, you would be hard pressed for 360-370 with bolt-ons.

 

The reason you can only get so much from bolt on's is because of diminishing returns. Essentially to get more power from the engine you need to get more air/fuel in faster and the gases out quicker. Once you have freed up both the intake and the exhaust side of things the only restrictions remain inside the engine.

Intake really consists of:
-lid/filter or CAI
-TB
-intake manifold

A 90/90 FAST setup will make power on a stock car because there are lots of restrictions on a stock car. If you alread have a ported TB and LS6 style intake manifold then the gain will be much less, because there is alreay much less restriction.

Exhaust:
-headers
-Cats
-Catback

And combine it with a tune to optimise everything.

The only other way of getting more power while retain stock internals is to remove things which are using up power. Such as the air con pump and the power streering pump. A pulley change will help, but it's not going to make a massive difference.

The only other option availble to you is driveline components. These won't make the car anymore power at the flywheel, but you can inflate your rwhp number. This is because you are making the dirve line loss less (a lower percentage).

Reducing the rotating mass and reducing frictional losses will help. Light weight drive shafts, wheels, tyres, low friction lubrcants and so on.

But I doubt this will see you past 350rwhp in reality. Yes some may dyno around 370rwhp but this is due to different dyno types.

A Dynojet dyno is a non load bearing dyno and will give a higher result than a Mustang Dyno. This is just because they work differently not because the car is more powerful on one dyno or another.

Typically if you divide a Dynojet number by 1.07 it will be pretty close to what a Mustang dyno would read.

So 370rwhp Dynojet = 345.8rwhp Mustang Dyno.

It can be very deceiving and the main cause why some many people think cars are underatted. This level of rwhp is going to be about equal to 400bhp SAE Net at the flywheel once all correction factors and standards are accounted for.

Not trying to be nasty but I think you may be living in a dream world.

Sure BIG power is available from the LSx engines, the SCCA Trans Am champ cars run around 650bhp at the engine, but these probably cost something like $100,000 to build and require lots of expensive maintanance and rebuilds after each race.

If you plan on driving your car on the street then it will need to remain streetable and tractable else it will just be a pig to drive.

and remember the higher the HP gets the further apart the two main dyno types read. A 500rwhp Dynojet reading is really much nearer to 465-475rwhp in reality.

In short don't get carried away with rwhp numbers as they don't mean a great deal as a specific comparison. Real world performance is much more important.

 

Lol! I always read your posts with an english accent in my head!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

 

you can see where i was at in my sig with just bolt ons, then the cam really woke the car up, and i am still planning on putting a set of good heads and a 90/90 set up. I am hoping for 470ish. when done.

you won't see 400rwhp with bolt ons, but you can get there with a decent cam and bolt ons, or other variations.

 

Nice numbers, where they on a Mustang Dyno or a Dynojet?