Well yesterday I got my car chasis dyno'd. I have to admit I thought the number swould be a bit higher what gives? I put down 292.9rwhp and 320tq Am I just expecting to much or not? My engine mods are .........

Flowtech Long Tube Headers & Dumped True Dual Exhaust
2.5" x-pipe, 2-24" Sweet Thunder Chambered mufflers
Whisper Lid / K&N Filter / Smooth Bellows
Hypertech PPIII & 160 thermo
NGK tr55 plugs & Taylor 8mm Plug Wires

114,000 miles on motor as well THX

 

Well, if it was a mustang dyno it will give lower #s than a dynojet, and A4s dyno less than M6s. Your 114,000 miles probably played a factor as welll. And maybe it hasn't had a plug and wire change in awhile?? That might help. Maybe your car can really benefit from a dynotune.

Theres a lot of possibilities, but those numbers do seem pretty low.

 

Make sure it was a dynojet, if it was a mustang dyno those numbers seem correct.

 

that a little low. mustang dynos numbers are 12-14% lower than dyno-jet numbers.

either way you are still a little on the low side. Who did your tune?

 

The hypertech will cost you a few ponies if you are using the powertuning....It usually results in knock retard.

 

He just asked a question, no need for name calling.

Anyways, A4's always dyno less and if that was a mustang dyno you shouldn't worry in the least.

 

It was a superflow chasis dyno not sure what the difference is.

 

dynos are tuning devices..and a4 are no dyno queens..track time will tell you more was the converter locked? and is it a stock stall?

 

stock converter also it was hitting the rev liiter a 5800rpm I have not change that either.

 

This guy is so right! Mine is a prime example. The most I ever got out of it on the dyno was 387 and I know it is higher than that in REALITY. Auto's will never dyno right, as he said, the track numbers tell all. Ex: 7.51 with a 1.61 60 foot. as a mild cam-only car with stock heads. Holy cow!!

 

Mine dyno'd 300whp and 312wtq (on a dynojet w/110k miles, the guy shutdown at 5200rpms though), mods in sig, and that's with an unlocked 3800 stall. I've heard those HPIII tunes are junk, keep it to have the fans set for your thermo and change the shift points rev limiter if you like, but take out the tune it does. Auto's are no dyno queens as everyone said, but with your mods you should definately be higher than that.

Other than that, never heard of that kind of dyno, what was your a/f?

 

Numbers in sig, my car wasn't tuned till after it hit the dyno. My car was running 17.1 A/F, blew the motor at anytime. I know that you have a handheld but the dyno tune will blow your mind not your motor. Its worth looking into.

 

No a/f because the guy counldn't hook up the equipment with my dumped exhaust. He said it would be too close to the rear tire. It did puff black smoke when he got off the gas and it reaked like gas.

 

do you have any trap speeds to contribute, uno? that will tell you how accurate that particular dyno is. i wouldn't worry about the mileage affecting your car's performance. my buddy is on his second ls1 with 130k+ on it. this car is VERY strong. my point: don't let the mileage scare you. it seems to me that you have a tuning issue and an overly conservative dyno.

 

You really need the A/F to get an idea of what is going on. The black puff is an obvious indicator. At least you aren't running lean like me. Take a look at my SIG and see what I got with a basically stock setup.

My numbers are actually low because we figure the lean condition was putting the car into the low octane tables. I had a hpp3 tune on the first two pulls. I removed it on the 3rd and nothing changed. The tune was probably not in effect because of my lean condition. Once again, you need an A/Fr to get a good idea of what adjustments need to be made.

 

My best before headers and TD's was a 13.3 at 106 I have not ran since the header and td swap. There is a huge SOTP gain from the swap.

 

I agree with 01 about the A/F ratio. There has to be a way to get it hooked up and then hook your car up. I would imagne (a total guess based on your setup) you could gain from a dyno tune and setting the right A/F ratio you could gain some serious HP improvement (20+) and some pretty nice torque (15+). Again just my opinion and your car is not in front of me.

 

I think I am going to purchace a VINCI handheld tuner. Seems that would work best for me. I am going to head back to the dyno after I get my LS6 ntake and ported Tb. Thx for all the insight guys.

 

Hope ur kidding bout that since he was referring to knock causing the car to retard the timing, hence the term "knock retard".
On point, So you didnt use any tuning software while dynoing other than the having the HPP3 program uploaded on ur pcm??? All you did was just make some pulls???
I agree w/ the others as to you running rich w/ the black smoke

 

Yes just made some pulls. They dont have any LS1 tuning software + I am not paying 125?hour for dyno tuning until I add a cam.