Waveridr85

A fwe of my buddies just dropped an lt1 into a 1990 mercedez 190e amg body. After everything was installed it seems way too slow. In the end, all it wsa was a big piece of rubber hose that got sucked into the intake and was against the maf screen.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

11:1. Cam was part of the package that I purchased. I figured that it would be better to buy the shortblock, heads and cam from the same people as it would be a dyno proven package instead of trying to reinvent the wheel.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

No mass air flow meter here. And when I had one, the screen was out. If that happened to me, it would be death to my motor. I am tempted to try it right now as I am soooooo pissed about having to take this thing apart again. I am going to check the degreeing on the cam today using the valve cover off methos to verify that the cam is in wrong. I hope that is the problem and not something more serious. I wonder if I should go with a different cam on this package while I am in there. Tony said that he doesn't like the reverse split duration and I have heard others say the same thing. Sooooooo.........what should I do about a cam? This one is pretty tamed right now. I don't know that I want to go too small. I would like something that would put down some mid to low 500 Rwhp and 500+ torque N/A. This shouldn't be too difficult to do with stock gears and an M6 on a 402. Must be hydraulic (i don't want to pull the heads again). Please consider that I will be running a 3.73 rear gear, 150 Shot NOS and a Fast 90 intake and nick williams 90 TB. But I would like the cam to spit out the numbers mentioned w/o the additional mods.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Also, could someone tell me why someone would want a reverse split in the LSX? Why even grind the cam if it sucks?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Ok, I took Tony and Ricks advice and took another look at the cam. I tore it down and took a close look at my dots. They seemed to be very close but I took a picture and e-mailed it to Hank @ SLP and Tony at AFR. Both concured that I was a 1/2 to 1 full tooth out. After about 20 attempts to get it lined up right, I finally got it done. Sent a picture and Tony concured that it looked right. I rushed to put it back together and took it for a test drive. WOW, what a difference. All of my bucking from 1600 to 2000 is gone. When I hit the gas from a 3500RPM roll in 2nd, the stock sh"t tires dont stand a chance.

I have give props to these guys. SLP has been taking some shots around here as of late with regards to their customer service. The first time that I called over there I spoke to Art, my sales guy and he passed me to Hank, the tech guy. Hank gave me his extension and has worked with me ever since. I have never called this guy and not gotten a return call in a timely manner. He has never been rude and behaved like I was a bother. Thanks Hank.

Tony sounds like no California guy that I have ever talked to. More like a character on the Sopranos that is in the witness protection program in the CA suburbs. No bustin your stones partner. No seriously, I had never talked to Tony before and I did not even buy the heads from them directly. He was extremely helpfull and straight forward. No ***** footing. Thanks Tony!

Thanks to all of the others that helped. Now I have to start tunning again from scratch as my tune is hosed. But I not complaining. I will post some dyno numbers once I get the tune in order and can get back to the dyno.

Regards

NEVRLIFT

Finally! Good news! Now let's see what that 402 can really do.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

Congrats!!! I cant imagine losing 100+rwhp and then "discovering" it! Must feel great for ya after all the disappointment!

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

The ONLY time you would want a reverse split is in a forced induction (turbo)setup....personally I still wouldnt use it. Even the Ls7 head exhaust port is not all that great.

In my opinion it is nothing more than a nice marketing ploy....

Tony Mamo @ AFR

iTrader: (13)

Aaayyyeee.....Yo....Better watch what you say....I wouldn't want to have to put in the order to have you "whacked"....LOL

Lets just say it was easier to move all my belongings to the west coast than lose my NY accent (even after 5 years....LOL) My buddies back home think I sound "Californian" now....that's scary

I am very pleased we got to the bottom of your problem and am looking foward to some much stronger numbers when you finally hit the dyno again.

Keep us posted...

Tony M.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Tony "Morpheus" Mamo invites you to take the Blue Pill...welcome to the "real world"

Thanks for the blue pill.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Man, it's like getting laid for the first time (@30yrs old) after 20 years of whacking it!

I'm not saying me. I am talking about a friend of mine.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

LOL. You should start and updated post after you dyno the car again.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

OK, my initial observation after putting it back together was that everything felt better. In reality, it is running way smoother but the power still isn't there. I am throwing a P0300 code and just downloaded a misfire config file to try and figure out if I have a problem with a cylinder. I also went out and bought a compressor so that I can do a leakdown test. I wish that I could afford to drop this thing off somewhere and tell them FIX IT! I even put the MAF back on thinking that I had something screwed up in my SD tune. I will post my findings.

MattDZ28

iTrader: (1)

I bet you are still off by about half a tooth on the cam gear. This pic you posted shows more than a full tooth off. Can you post another pic of where it's at currently?

I bet you are getting tired of taking the front cover off now...

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Not sure if you will be able to make this out as I have to shrink the picture to be able to attach it. Photobucket is down for maintenance.

Mrbowtie26

iTrader: (3)

Hope you get it all sorted out. Nice write up. I am putting together almost exactly the same motor. Slp block afr heads. but with the fast 90/90. Goo dluck. and keep posting.
Ron H.

MAC4264

Your problems are not all together in camshaft grind. Looking at your pictures of your spark pulgs tells me this. You need to do a leak down. Compression test in my opinion tells you not a dam thing (to many variables) except you have enough compression to start. The leak down will tell if your ring seat, valve job is sealing etc. If this all passes then the next thing I ask is how many miles do you have on the engine. Some of those plugs are wet. I ask mileage because I want to see if you have oil comsuption. We just finished a 402 build and have since removed because of these problems. All 8 of ours were wet and #5 was the worst. We were burning a quart of oil every 120 miles. Our leak down was very good and we made made 460/460 our first trip to dyno. We wonder why we didn't make 500 and started looking and now the motor is completely disassembled and I will not be putting back together. Every piece of this engine was new and you can see were the pistons were rocking at BDC and coming out of the bore to far in the bottom what a joke. In my opinion the 402/408 is a bad combo and speaking from experience. Your combo is a proven bunch of pieces (I've seen it in GM High Tech). If anyone comes behind me and says it isn't then everyone on here that is pushing 402 parts is full of S__T and who do you believe.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

OK. Because I am a shadetree mechanic and not a professional, it has been hard for me to tell what this setup is supposed to sound like as I have not had anything to compare it too. I went over to a friends house that just put together a similar setup and let him hear it idle and take it for a drive to get his seat of the pants feedback. Here are the results.
1) He said: What is that whistling sound at idle?
I said: I don't know but the air pump is out and I thought that it was normal.
The whistling sound loud enough to hear over the engine idling but not nearly as loud as the AIR Pump. Could this be a vaccuum leak? Is there anyway to scan for a vaccuum leak?
2) He said: You have major detonation at 4000RPM + under WOT?
Could this be associated to the vaccuum leak? I am definetly not lean overall but I could be going lean in one or 2 cylinders. Is there a way to tell.
3) He said: It is definetly down on power.
4) He said: I can't believe how smooth this thing idles with such a big cam.
I said: HP Tuners.

Any thoughts?

JoeyGC5

iTrader: (24)

1.) Possible vacuum leak or pcv problem,, to much vaccum maybe?
2.) Possibly, could also be 0.2-2 degrees false knock
3.) already known
4.) Whats your maf g/min reading? How about engine vac?

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

definetely not false knock. He heard the detonation.

i will get the readings and post them in a little bit.

thanks