Very Dissapointed with dyno results today...
05-07-2006, 09:17 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by joshp14
You guys are making me doubt my measurements when in fact I checked it prolly a dozen times. I just may have to pull the valve covers off and check again.
05-07-2006, 09:22 PM
#43
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
3 degrees timing is NOT going to make more than a few hp difference if ANY. My car makes 2 more hp going from 23 degrees timing to 28. Its a wash. Something is mechanically wrong here. 7.32 sounds awfully short for the pushrods...
i am not saying its all the tune, i agree its something more, but i have also seen 2 deg make 12 hp
actually my friends car didnt have the correct timing tables first time we dynoed it and it picked up 18 hp going from 23* to 29*
05-07-2006, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by joshp14
Will do! I'll Check it tomorrow at work with the Tech 2.
05-07-2006, 09:38 PM
#46
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Id also verify the physical opening. You are missing way too much power for it not to be anything but a mechanical or possibly ignition problem. I highly doubt you'll see any difference from injectors either. You are not maxing them with only 380rwhp.
05-07-2006, 09:54 PM
#48
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
You are not maxing them with only 380rwhp.
05-07-2006, 09:57 PM
#49
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Originally Posted by HOSS
This is what I wanting to bet on, but he may be leaving a few ponies on the table with them being maxed. Just another piece of the puzzle in his setup.
05-07-2006, 10:05 PM
#50
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
Ok. I agree he probably needs injectors when he gets his current issue resolved. Look at the A/F ratio the injectors arent the problem.
05-07-2006, 10:06 PM
#51
Originally Posted by joshp14
Ok to answer all the questions...I do have stock injectors...I read on LS1tech that these would work up to 450 RWHP. Do you think that this problem could be injector or fuel related?
I dont think he had a editing program hooked up while on the dyno, I believe it was a Snap-on scanner where you can monitor engine parameters. I dont know how the guy dynoing based his judgement that the tune was "pretty close"...I guess he may have been going off of timing and A/F ratio.
I am using the TR55 plugs at the stock gap. Should I narrow this up a little running higher compression?
I dont think he had a editing program hooked up while on the dyno, I believe it was a Snap-on scanner where you can monitor engine parameters. I dont know how the guy dynoing based his judgement that the tune was "pretty close"...I guess he may have been going off of timing and A/F ratio.
I am using the TR55 plugs at the stock gap. Should I narrow this up a little running higher compression?
the injectors are a MUST, H/C cars want svo42's, they work perfect up to 500rwhp.
without a proper scan tool (efilive/hptuners), you don't know how much injector duty you were running. the fact that afr stayed decent, doesn't mean much, i've seen dead on afr, yet the power to the wheels would flutter badly, as it ran out of injectors.
for h/c, TR55s are good, but narrow the gap. i know few people who's cars really like TR6's, most of then had really nice heads. that'd be you.
you'll need injectors. even if you're somehow bending the laws of physics and you're not out of them yet, you will, once the real culprit gets fixed, and you'll start making proper h/c power.
btw, ford forums have some really good deals on svo injectors...
05-07-2006, 10:06 PM
#52
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FWIW My pushrods length, with the mods in my sig, when I measured came out to 7.4 When I put it on the dyno it pulled 432/410 with my previous tune and stock 26lbs injectors. I swaped out to a set of 28.8 as a band-aid until later and it lowered my duty cycle by about ~14 but no gain in power.
05-07-2006, 11:35 PM
#54
Originally Posted by cantdrv65
3 degrees timing is NOT going to make more than a few hp difference if ANY. My car makes 2 more hp going from 23 degrees timing to 28. Its a wash. Something is mechanically wrong here. 7.32 sounds awfully short for the pushrods...
i agree, try the 7.400" pushrods.
05-07-2006, 11:46 PM
#56
Originally Posted by joshp14
How will the longer pushrods help if all its going to do is bump the preload from .050" to .125"?
because i think no one swapped pushrods to shorter ones becuase they milled the heads and added thinner head gaskets. just try the 7.400" pushrods, maybe there will be your problem or the most part of it. if swapping to 7.400" PR's didnt help then get back to the 7.325" pushrods but i have a feeling that your problem solution is to get back to 7.400" pushrods.
05-08-2006, 12:04 AM
#57
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Originally Posted by Abdullah
because i think no one swapped pushrods to shorter ones becuase they milled the heads and added thinner head gaskets. just try the 7.400" pushrods, maybe there will be your problem or the most part of it. if swapping to 7.400" PR's didnt help then get back to the 7.325" pushrods but i have a feeling that your problem solution is to get back to 7.400" pushrods.
05-08-2006, 02:14 AM
#58
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Have you done a comperssion test on each cyl?
It sounds like you're way down on compression.
You have a major issue with your setup.
Either those valves are hanging open, or your shortblock
is toast.
It sounds like you're way down on compression.
You have a major issue with your setup.
Either those valves are hanging open, or your shortblock
is toast.
05-08-2006, 08:32 AM
#59
You're not gonna gain power with new injectors unless your engine is starving for fuel- and I don't think you are.
Will you be safer with larger injectors running at a lower DC than stock injectors running at a higher DC? Yes. But it is doubtful that you will gain power. There are lots of LS1's running heads and cam, well over 400 RWHP on stock injectors and not having any problems. The higher duty cycles are really only dangerous during prolonged high RPM, WOT usage. Short bursts at high DC, like what you see doing a 1/4 mile run, will not overheat and lock up the injectors.
I would do a leakdown test on the engine.
I would have it retuned.
Are you sure the cam was degreed properly?
Are you sure you didn't get one of the F13 cams from the bad batch?
Will you be safer with larger injectors running at a lower DC than stock injectors running at a higher DC? Yes. But it is doubtful that you will gain power. There are lots of LS1's running heads and cam, well over 400 RWHP on stock injectors and not having any problems. The higher duty cycles are really only dangerous during prolonged high RPM, WOT usage. Short bursts at high DC, like what you see doing a 1/4 mile run, will not overheat and lock up the injectors.
I would do a leakdown test on the engine.
I would have it retuned.
Are you sure the cam was degreed properly?
Are you sure you didn't get one of the F13 cams from the bad batch?
05-08-2006, 08:49 AM
#60
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first of all, you dynoed very low cam-only to begin with. So dont be expecting too much, unless there was a problem before.
I dynoed 10rwhp and 20rwtq higher with a lot smaller B1 cam (221/.558/114)
how can you say that? the 28.8's hold my 419rwhp just fine.
I dynoed 10rwhp and 20rwtq higher with a lot smaller B1 cam (221/.558/114)
Originally Posted by HOSS
just looked at ur list of mods, if you have stock injectors, you are needing some new ones bad